Paul Roberts

Welcome to FC. Spool size, and line diameter will matter most.

What's always got me is all the verbage/BS on the packages that say "bass can't resist!" or "Magic!" instead of stuff we can use, like: accurate depth ratings, weight, rate of rise, and fall rate. These should be first and foremost. Then turn the packaging over to the marketing staff.

My best guess. Shame. But, I think we're all pretty conscientious. And, I must say it's darn rare IME.

I've come to the conclusion (theory) that heat must penetrate to a certain depth before bass consider spawning -provided photoperiod/time of year is in place for full development to have occurred. I call this "temperature stabilization" -when waters have absorbed enough heat. Realize that water takes on and gives up heat stingily. In my small waters it seems bass will initiate spawning (first wave), say, when water at about the 3-4ft depth reaches the upper 50s. In a big lake those might be the local fish, or the first to "move in" to spawning locations. I've taken temperature profiles for years, just to get to learn -understand- how water heats, and cools. Otherwise, temperature -specific readings- can mean very little. There's lots to the whole picture though. Think of it this way: physiology (understand the machine), the environment (gotta understand how that works), and then contexts/events that can influence behavior (they are "living" creatures after all) all come together to tell the whole story of any given moment. Seasons are easy to predict. Weeks a bit tougher. Days, we're beginning to fly by the seat of our pants. Moments are gifts and curses. Hope this makes some sense.

Dunno. But I've had a few that have acted strangely after capture -one this spring in fact which reminded me of another I'd caught in the very same (and very shallow) spot a few years ago. The difficulty with equilibrium and obvious liveliness of the fish made me wonder if there wasn't neurological damage, possibly from the hook. The brain, eyes, and supporting nerve fibers lie not far from the roof of the mouth.

If there is a "standard", it would be 10lb mono (.011"). This is the lightest lb test that will handle the widest range of "bass-sized" CB's. The thinner the diameter gives a deeper depth rating. But you should use what your waters and bass are requiring. In my heavily vegetated waters I'm most often using .013". (Also realize that line manufacturers lb test ratings will be all over the place. Diameter is what's important, and not just concerning depth control.) Also, as mentioned, many CB manufacturers ratings aren't spot on. Seems that some have actually corrected theirs though, as in the Norman DD22 went from a 22ft depth rating to a more accurate 17ft. The range given for plugs (say, 8-14ft) was originally to cover cast and trolled depths, respectively. Decreasing line angle from rod tip can allow a bait to go deeper, so trolling, and long casts, as can -to a lesser extent- submerging the rod tip and using FC line, can affect maximum depth. The only way to really know is to test them as you fish. Think speed control as well as depth control. So... fish a plug at the speed you deem correct for conditions, then test your plugs until you find one that isn't constantly hanging, or making no contact at all. If you have sonar, or a plumb-line, you then know a given lures depth.

Look up the FG-Knot. 6lb is mighty light for a 2/0 hook.

See what I mean? Dunno how far S you are Raul, but further S than most of us here.

I lived in the Philippines for a couple of years. Got to fish Pantabangan and Lumot. Tropical/subtropical bass do not get the temperature cues that greatly influence them over the vast majority of their temperate range. Spawning seasons are much protracted (longer) in the tropics bc water temps almost never drop below spawning temps. But photoperiod is still at play. And I know Pantabangan did get some cool periods during the "ber" months. There 's little research that has been able to truly separate the effects of photoperiod, temperature, and other possible entrainment factors of an endogenous rhythm. In the real world, bass use what's necessary to get the job done or, put more accurately: What works... works. If it didn't, they wouldn't be there. What's known is that tropical bass spawn over long periods -something like 8 months in Puerto Rico! Likely this is true in the PH. I know that I got NO info on seasonal activity -the spawn in particular- while there. No one seemed to consider such things. I assume this is bc bass were potentially on beds over such a long period -What "season"?! Tropical bass are also much shorter lived than northern bass. Apparently they metabolically "burn out", never getting "winter". So... my experience is very limited there. Here's a clip from my records from there: "June 10-12, 2014: ...To find bass I started by checking temperatures. Surface tempd as much as 88F, 86F in the early am, and I got 86F at 20ft in a tertiary channel. The thermocline, if there is one, must be deep indeed, Such temps are pushing beyond metabolic preferentia for LM, meaning that the bass would need a large amount of food to keep them active. Otherwise they move to deeper, cooler water, or reduce activity to the coolest periods. ..." I would look more at the effects of limnological characteristics: water clarity (light penetration), temperature at depths, and cover. In particular, I'd be identifying where the food is at. Got little info on that while there either. There is a small sculpin-like fish (Biyat) in the depths, bluegill-like Tilapia and Ayungin, and carp-like Cyprinids. There was a more pelagic (open water) type fish that I saw bass busting on that could worth pursuing. Some of the larger bass at Panta were caught trolling between spots I noticed, which might indicate large bass hunting larger open water prey. Kick myself for not trying an Alabama Rig there! I know tackle is not readily available there, but you could probably cobble together an A-rig easily enough. Both Lumot and Panta seemed to be deep water -and possibly open water- fisheries for the most part, with their clear water and steep contours -not to mention high water temps. Best I can do. As you know, there are not a whole lot of tools available there to figure things out. Would love to have had more time at Pantabangan. Good luck. Let us know what you find out. I'm always curious, even about waters 1000's of miles away I may never see again.

It's tough when the water's cold. Winter fish can be consolidated, often away from shoreline cover where most people are most comfortable. When water breaks into the 50s things should pick up. Bass are more mobile then and hungry. Prior to this they're still catchable, but you have to find them. And don't expect them to do much chasing.

If I had only one it would be 6:3. I like a slower reel for crankbaits, for cold water (half my year), and for heavy lifting. I like (need) speed though for lipless cranks and spinnerbaits in particular. Here the 7.9 would be nice. Line recovery is always nice for soft plastics too, but the 6:3 is fine there. You can get used to anything though, if you use it enough.

Yeah, in one lake -even a big one- it's not due to latitude but to limnological factors.

Yee-ha!

I've seen this color listed in SK crankbaits on BPS. Not sure I've seen it in the jerks.

Layers. -"Archive" storage boxes for less used, and stockpiles. -Main "Active" storage boxes to dip into. -"Day" boxes are layered too: I have boxes already made up for technique types and lure types: drop-shot, wacky, finesse, T-rig, etc...; creatures, tubes, jigs, grubs, swimbaits (S, M, L), topwater, slop, worms, cranks, ... etc, etc, etc. Since you specifically mention hardbaits, I tend to categorize as: jerks, lipless, shallow, mid, deep, extra deep, topwater, swimbait, "Mega" (really big stuff), and Ultra-light (really little stuff). -Then I have day boxes for a particular trip, pulled from the above. I tend to start the selection process with rod/reel combos => technique => lures and supporting terminal stuff. These are dependent on water body and season. It's cyclical: Each year I'm generally pulling the same stuff. I'm also willing to get rid of stuff. As I get older I can see that a lot of stuff just won't get used. Feels good and works better not to be too overwhelmed with stuff I'll never actually get to.

I understand completely. I also can't stand the bright white rods and reels. Way to ruin a good rod. Besides the general aesthetic -for me- I fish from shore a lot and will be standing against darker backgrounds. Rod flash I can't live with. I have an older Carbonlite in glorious, stealthy, hi-tech, super-cool, black.

Yes. Particularly the further south you go the more protracted the spawn season will be. Up in Montana, the same thing will happen but the spawn will be much more contracted in timing. You can look at timing from two perspectives: That of the population, and that of the individuals. The popn of bass in a given water will take 6 months to spawn in the far S of the LM's range. In the far N the whole popn may be done in a month. However, the larger the lake -or greater volume- the more protracted the spawn season will be for the entire popn. Larger individuals tend to spawn first, and are most apt to accomplish multiple spawns. Multiple spawns are more common in the S than in the N.

MUCH easier said than done. You can trust me on that one.

That wouldn't be me.

You're in pre-spawn. You are observing a warming trend, and possibly new moon influence. But separating those two factors is difficult. Here, I'm in a cooling trend, and the new moon has done nothing.

Pow! Water depth you were fishing over?

I believe many if not all chubs -there are a number of species- get what are called "turbercles" on their heads when they spawn. Males only I think. So it would likely be a time of year thing as well. Chubs are most common in warmwater creeks. My guess is chubs would make good bait regardless of time of year you catch them.

"Wabbler" is a European term for a casting lure. Sounds like you probably have an early Rapala. I believe it became the "Finnish Minnow" for export. But some real early ones were being brought over to the US.

Tons of info out there via internet and books. The biggest hurdle is casting. It's not intuitive. If you can afford lessons from a local instructor, it helps. If not, read up and watch vids. Lots out there. The number one suggestion I can make is getting or making a yarn rod for indoor practice. Quickest way I know to get a novice forming controlled loops, accuracy, and distance. However, focus should not be casting far but casting with control. You can make a yarn rod using the tip section of a two-piece rod you already own. Just tie a 3 to 4ft piece of yarn to the tip-top. When I started teaching FF years ago I just used dry goldenrod stalks cut from a nearby field. Yarn must be heavy "pony-tail" yarn. In lieu of that any yarn just dampened with water will add the necessary weight. Cast under tables and chairs, around corners, to the cat -anything and everything. Trick is to be able to form a tight loop by cutting a shallow arc with the rod tip. None of that floppy wide-loop wrist stuff. It's fun, convenient, and it translates to the real world directly. Next is learning to handle the line while catching a fish. Bluegills, or chasing the hatchery truck, is the quickest way. Fish are the best teachers, and motivators. But first, you have to be able to get the fly to the fish with some control.

This is not an uncommon story. Big bass "findable" during the coldwater season. And... big bass and stunts together.