J Francho

I use a uni or uni snell for most hooks and baits. But there should be no problem with a Palomar, unless it's user error. I use a Palomar for drop shot rigging 4 and 6# fluoro without problem. If there is a kink before the knot, start over.

They are pretty much the same reel. The E5 is what I'd use for diving cranks.

Click the Catch and Release link to the right.

Your waypoints don't change. How accurate the GPS interprets you actual position is affected by many things. Some units are more accurate by using more satellite signals at once, if available.

I would not recommend using KVD Line & Lure Conditionaer to lube any reel part either. The ATF works pretty well, as does any fine reel oil.

Yep, apparently it's too far into winter for this stuff.

Is it an appearnace ticket? If so, just ask to speak to the DA, and explain the circumstances. Otherwise, get a lawyer.

Lucky Craft CBD20.

Max drag is HIGHLY overrated. I recommend 1/3 of line break strength or rod rating, whichever is lower. I do my initial testing using a spring scale attached to a fixed object, both for actual resistance and break away feel. After that, I go by feel.

At least he left it at the end, you could get up and tune out, or sit an listen. I didn't care either way. The fishing content on that show is top notch, though.

I use Elite for trout fishing, 10 and 12#, and P-Line CXX has much less stretch than Elite.

Buy Terminators T-1, LOL.

Some Copolymers have less stretch than mono, but low stretch? That's a stretch, LOL.

4# Yo-zuri isn't ultra light. Light, sure, but not ultra light. 1-2# breaking strength, and now were talking ultra light. This is for 1/80 oz. jigs and lighter. You're not throwing that with casting gear. Spool it up with 6 or 8# mono fluoro or whatever. It'll be more than sufficiant for crappie and small bass.

Actually, the more proper term is that the 35mm offers an equivilent field of view on a APS (or 1.5 crop) sensor as a 50mm on a full framed 24x36 (35mm sensor). The 35mm lens is still a wide angle lens, and though the image size is smaller, only the 50 does not magnify or shrink the image. You can easily test this out, by mounting each lens and looking in the viewfinder (so long as it's a true TTL SLR) with your other eye open, and compare the size of the objects. On the 35mm lens, objects will appear smaller in the viewfinder, whereas with the 50mm they will be close to the same. But, John Krahling is correct in a apples to apples shooting situation. A D90 with a 35mm lens will take tha same picture as a full frame camera with a 50mm lens, so long as the shooter and subjct are in the same positions. Personally, I own a 28, 35, 50, 85, 100, and 200 primes. My most often used lenses when subject distance is not an issue (bigger areas with room to move) are the 50mm and 100mm, in that order. The 28mm is my indoor lens, and the 35mm is just a lens I use because I like my particular lens (Canon EF35mm f/1.4L). I shoot both APS-C (1.6 crop) and a full frame digital SLR.

A string of easily preventable deaths, both to victims and rescuers prompted the law. By "underway" their definition is anything other than moored or anchored.

This is all done in post, with an image editing program. The only filters used anymore (that cannot be reproduced digitally) are polarizers, neutral density, and ND grad. Glades, have you checked FredMiranda, Photocamel, DPR, or other photography forums' want ads? I've been able to do much better than eBay buying used gear. Ised lenses don't really depreciate, so long as their glass is good. Other places you might try are mpex.com and keh.com.

I don't go less than 50/12 on baitcasting gear. It's easier to handle in the bigger diameter.

I'm just imagining a spinnerbait with a long arm and lots of blades spread out.

Thanks! Should have just reread the article, LOL.

Gotta love it - bluebird skies, a light chop, and fishing in shorts. In January. Nice fish, man!

More interesting than weird facts is whether or not they're true. Snopes.com is a beautiful thing!

Will the Elites be able to use these during non tournament hours, for example prefishing or practice?

Unless you find Bass Pro Shops XPS 100%, Berkley 100%, or InvisX on sale, you're going to have to spend a little more. Those are three reasonably priced lines that I trust my entry fees on. Raise your budget to $20 to $25, and your options are better. Otherwise, stick with braid and use a leader if necessary, or try a stronger coplymer line like P-Line CXX.

Abu reels are warranteed for one year. I would call them and see if it's covered.