J Francho

You gill the fish with a fillet knife. Just follow the gill cover with the cut.you'll know when you hit it, LOL.

Not on a spincast. If you want something dense, and tough abrasion resistance, try 8# P-Line CXX. It's been working great on my kids' rod for years.

For mainline. I like the bright yellow so other can see my stuff coming a mile away. The float line doesn't make sense - it's a braid. Braid sucks in sub freezing, and the zero stretch is a big time disadvantage with tiny hooks, and hard charging steelhead.

The trolling motor is a bigger obstacle than the front seat, vision wise. So are passengers on bowriders, for that matter. If you're trimmed out properly, you should have no issue seeing in front of you. Never heard of any law, or heard anyone get a ticket for that.

Gonna be a great episode. I've fished that lake....special indeed!

When you cut the artery from the gills to the head, it bleeds out in about two minutes.

For salmon and trout, they have to be dime bright and fresh from the lake, and yes, if you are making steaks, use a spoon to remove the mudline after gutting. I don't gut anymore, but use a technique a sushi chef taught me. And yeah, trout and salmon are gross to me, but not the rest of my family.

For ice cold conditions, it's fine line. That's 8# Elite on a 2500 Daiwa spinner:

Suffix Elite is great stuff for sub zero. It's what I use in my centerpin for winter steelheading. Again, KVD L&L will help seal the line, and keep the ice off.

I'm surprised I'm about the only one the bleeds them out? I was always told they taste better that way. Maybe because I'm keeping different fish, like trout, salmon, walleye, and pike?

My monitor thanks you for the coffee shower.

LOL, reminds me of NYDEC and trout bead rigs.

I know your kidding, but you can easily set the iPhone up to automatically DL your pics and videos to specific location. No purchase necessary. I just have my stuff linked to the iCloud.

It used to be really bad in the 80's when mixing brands.

KVD Line & Lure. Once it gets below 35 up here, I rarely go above 10# line.

Wrap the reel feet with electrical tape. I do this anyway, to protect against scratches that detract from resale.

Cost is $96 per ounce, but the guy that bought it is selling it in his sushi bars for $5.45 a piece. He bought it at such an inflated price to boost the fishing economy.

Sneakernet! Can't see that as more convenient than using a cable. I mean, you have to copy it twice.

To answer the question, gill them. Use a knife, and make a cut following the gill cover all the way to the bottom. Then put it on ice to bleed out.

That is assuming your in proximity to weather recording station. Some places I fish, especially on the Great Lakes where I fish, weather can be completely different just 20 miles away. But yeah weather, location, even tidal or flow rates could be totally automated.

Most economical bait? Crankbaits and hard jerkbaits. Get a plug knocker, too. You can catch a 1,000 bass on one crank.

You're looking at baits like a fisherman, not a bass. Moving baits aren't that much different from each other. I'd make the same comparison with a casting spoon and a spinnerbait. With plastics, bass usually get a longer look at the bait, than something that zings by them; something they have to chase.

iCloud has no cables.

Yep, and yep. Try holding both in your hand, side by side. They are a lot different. Now rig them up exactly the same, and drop them in a fish tank. You'll see what I mean.

That extra oil generally just runs out. I don't see it as a big issue, just wasteful. If you are using a sealed bearing, and over oil, and seal it up, then you got problems.