J Francho

And there's actually one other freak like me, LOL.

Softer power....action is the speed of the taper. A slower taper means more of the rod bends with pressure. It doesn't mean that it takes less force to bend it. That's where the power rating of the rod comes in.

I sold two silver Capricorn baitcasters to fletchero, one of them was a real freak show with topwaters. Every once in a while, you get a seriously good copy.

LOL, it isn't that much of a difference that you'd need to change rods when using barbless. I have gone to barbless for a few baits as an experiment (fun fishing only) and while on paper it may seem to matter, it doesn't on the water. Also, whoever said they like faster rods for shallow divers and lipless cranks, I agree there, too. Especially for ripping through grass. I do prefer a slower action for lipless in rocks. I feel like I get better deflection. Who knows if that's true.

Looks like a Daiwa Triforce from 20 years ago.

I can't answer. You don't have LH for spinning, and both for casting.

They are outriggers for stability:

You answered your own question?

Yes, it works on dark colors. It works even better if you do a primer coat of clear, then the chartreuse.

There's MANY kayakers on this site - fess up guys! Canoes do transport big items better, and they portage better as well. I can bring a ton of gear along in my big water kayak, though. The kayak takes some getting used to if your more experienced with a canoe. Some sit on top kayaks are MUCH more stable than a canoe, and you can even stand in a few. Try them both out, and see what you like better. Nothing beats seat time.

Either will work well. I'd go with the kayak, but I have a few.

I don't get that. Get to know your tools, and you'll know what you're feeling.

Texas rigged worm and creature style plastics, jig and craw, and spook type topwaters are all great summertime baits - if you are in summertime bass locations.

Both the Avid AVC70MM and AVCMHM I use are moderate action, but have plenty of backbone. I've even used the former for pike and steelhead fishing. Slower action doesn't really mean whippy and no backbone. You're thinking of power.

Oh, tarpon....I missed that detail. Thanks for the explanation.

All time? Just LMB? 1. Jig 2. 10" Ribbon tail Worm 3. 7" Ribbon tail worm This year and last? 1. Jig 2. Rage craw 3. Something 4" long, plastic, Shhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!

Never, ever put a 1/2 senko on a ball head and try to catch fish with it.

Hang in there man, I've got an open seat when you get in town.

No, the "Jr." is the Jr. size It's smaller than the 75, 3/8 oz. and maybe 2" http://www.tacklewar...page-SPASJ.html

Why is it frowned on to take them out of the water? How do you get the hooks out?

If you can prefish with your boater, that would be ideal.

Pros do a lot things differently.... Hard to argue with the fact that Rojas has had success. He designed that frog, so it must work for him. I will say this, I've used 20# CXX for Spro frogs with success. It worked better in areas where the hair algae had bloomed on the surface. Braid would pick it, the copoly would slough it off. Not my favorite way to fish though....

Just use what you usually use, pay attention, and add to your arsenal as you learn.

Back in the day, rods would be labeled by the manufacture as having a light, medium, or heavy action. I still have a few that say that. Maybe Dean hasn't adopted the newer terminology in his spiel. At any rate, I've seen him fish in person, and he's using a pretty whippy rod to sling those frogs. I'm not even sure he was using braid. This was on Smith Mountain Lake, a few years back.

Football heads, for the most part.