J Francho

I remove the split ring, and add a duo lock snap.

How would a backlash occurring at the BEGINNING of a cast result in snarls deep in the spool? Think about it. Then work on training your thumb. No magic bullet here.

If you're starting out with a blank, trimming the tip, spacing the guides out correctly and going truly custom, then you are changing the action of the blank, to your likes and desires. If you are simply adding a tip to a broken rod and think you are ending up with a first quality rod where the tip is 2 inches to the next guide??? If it looks good it fishes good. : You're arguing over a broken rod. I definitely wouldn't buy one that was repaired in such a manner, I wouldn't fish one that I broke while fishing it, unless I totally stripped it down and re-built it. What the heck does my post have to do with what you're saying?

Just got done breaking all my tips, and gluing in new tip tops I pulled off a bunch of Ugly Sticks. I'm ready for spring.

3 rod builders,and a guy that has broken enough rod tips to know the truth....who cares what anyone "thinks" anymore, LOL. If that's the case, save some major $$$, and buy a cheap, fast rated 7-6 rod. Snap the tip off, and you'll have an expensive extra fast rod. LMAO. :

Yeah but, that's Pat's normal face. I wouldn't want ot see him mad. He said to slap you upside the head, and say "Hi!" BTW. LOL

Its still the case in many "big game" reels, not so much for bass gear, which is relatively light weight stuff in the overall scheme.

I was just passing the buck...literally ;D

The Mann's Ghost above and some little floating turd by Heddon made in the early 90s.

If you payed by credit card....you know what to do.

Moot point....Ugly Sticks don't break, LOL. Actually, my buddy Kase heard one snap fishing for kings in the gorge. Said it sounded like a 22 going off!

Right, GYCB Senkos have no such slot.

Its slipping on the spool. A wrap or two of electrical tape around the spool or 10 or more turns of mono before the braid goes on will solve that issue.

I think it refers to taper, which is directly related to "action" if action is referring to how the rod flexes under load. A fast taper would diminish in diameter quickly, while a slow action rod would slowly taper. Its important to note that there are different sections of the rod, the butt, or backbone, a transitional middle area and a tip. Somewhere I think Gary Loomis has written or talked about it. Recovery is something different, though my take is that the faster the taper, the quicker the recovery. There's probably more to it. I learn much the same way. Its not stubbornness, I just need to see it in simple terms, or simply hands on. Now if I could just share what I know, simply..... ;D

Don't sweat it - let's hope you don't have to gain any practical experience in this matter.

I'll start by saying you can get all this done with a M or MH spinning rod anywhere from 6' to 7' long. Myself, I use distinctively different rods for each. T-rig weightless senkos can be thrown on anything. Really. Match gear to cover. Standard t-rigs with a bullet weight and worm hook are fished with casting gear, anything from M/F up to XXXXH/mod-fast. Match gear to cover, and weight of the bait. Dropshot...If you mean deep water, and light line, then I'd go with a 6-7' ML/F rod. Since you're looking at shallower, and possibly some light cover, I'd go with the "so called" drop shot rods that are 6-8, or 6-9, M or ML power, and X-fast action. For shaky head, I am actually now using a shorter rod, 6' to be exact. Its M/F, a very simple rig. I like the shorter length for greater control of the movement I impart with the rod. I came up with these preferences over the course of years on the water. Been drop shotting for quite a few years now, shaky heads for around four years, and Senkos, maybe three years. Texas rigging worms and other plastics is something I've done for over 25 years (since I was 12) so that's an even more complicated deal. You want to get started and get time on the water, get a spinner in the 6-6 to 7' range, fastish tip, and enough backbone to move a fish out of cover, and you'll be fine for all you listed.

FTO Wallet is the best I've found.

Nice review, and advice. I wrote these off as duds, but what you say is encouraging.

Bassyaks are removable - a couple of bolts and two carbiners. Foot controlled steering far outweighs the minor inconvenience.

So forgetting the action & power, the rod's characteristics may become less favorable if the tip is shortenned?? Sound's like quite a gamble to buy a rod with a shortenned tip, unless sure it can be replaced under expedited warranty service I'd say its a bigger gamble than buying an intact rod, sight unseen. Thing is, it may be perfect for what you need to do. I had an 11' noodle rod for bobber fishing for panfish, broke the top 8" or so off it on a walleye. Thing became a great steelhead rod, a bit slower. It originally had a progressive slow action, but a really soft tip, too soft, LOL.

I was laughing at myself, not you. I had a terrible couple years with breaking rods, after proclaiming I never break rods. Was trying to add some levity. Yes, the rods have the same force applied - at the same place, via the tip and guides. This geometry is altered, and the point where the most force is applied, the tip, has moved closer to the black. With the shorter rod there will be increased tension in the blank, and slower action.

That's pretty cool - through the ice! The only thing we caught last weekend through the ice were lakers, LOL. Good job getting out there!

Its a freebie job anyway. A good customer left me a box of reels that "didn't work" anymore. This reel was pretty much brand new, but missing the thumb bar, so I asked about the part. I'm sure the guy will pleased when there is an extra reel in his return box.

You can ponder this all you want, I have broken enough rods to know what happens, LMAO. They are all slower than they were before.

LOL, I couldn't stand a 21 IPT for deep cranks. You'll be fine. All my treble hooked setups are 23-34 IPT (5.8:1).