J Francho

Woo Hoo! Another "lure pass" that will ultimately fail, yet provide tons of entertainment. If you want to trade some books, put a "For Trade: Fishing Books" post in the flea market.

You'll have to be specific about what reels you want to use in salt.

Teaching and learning.

There's a lot better mapping tools out there than Google or Acme mapper.... http://www.findyourwater.com/

30-40% is the standard guide discount. No sponsor needed. I think its important to understand the difference between simply using stuff, doing a couple of talks, and actually fulfilling the angler's end of a sponsorship by selling the product. That means converting someone you talk to into a retail customer. Pretty much what I think Senko was talking about. The "new" model is to overprice your stuff, offer a seemingly good discount to "pro staffers" making them post all over the internet forums. Where would some of these companies be without internet forums?

For toads, I use a 7' MH/F rod with a high speed reel. FOr frogs, I use my flipping stick, a 7-6 XH/Mod rod. 12# P-Line CXX for toads, 65# Power Pro for frogs.

It was downright balmy today, up here. Must have hit mid 30s, LOL. It snowed, but nothing stuck.

The fish don't plant themselves. : Pressure is going to be the deal breaker here. I fish a restricted quarry (with permission) and outside of spring and fall,its tough. Water is VERY clear and very deep. It has some decent largemouth, but its loaded with smallies and big shad. BIG topwaters produce well in the evenings.

San Juan Worm style....

I sent you a PM with my digits. I can walk you through most any reel, if you want. No really special tools needed.

What about T-rigging a shiner, like a Super Fluke? ;D ;D ;D

Instructions don't mean crap on the water.... Use an Alberto Knot.

Nope...happens with "non modern" spools too.

Those store brand/pro model reels from Quantum can be sketchy as far as replacement parts go. Problem is, its sometimes hard to tell if a reel for sale is going to be supprted or not. I'd contact Quantum directly about it. For other reels, I've found their online system more than adequate for my needs. I wish other companies would do the same, since its such a waste of time waiting on hold for the next available operator.... http://www.quantumfishing.com/CustomerService/ReplacementParts.aspx

Removing the seals is usually unnecessary. Be sure you inspect them for dirt and debris frequently. i wouldn't be too concerned thit the spool bearings themselves, but the pinion support, and two crank shaft support bearings can be exposed to grime associated with normal fishing conditions. Unless there is degraded performance, I see no reason to replace. Revos respond really well to a good bearing flush. The light weight oil used in Daiwa upper end reels sometimes goes dry, causing damage and performance issues, but as long as you hear a nice steady "hiss" from them, they're probably fine. Most often, guys that go with "high test" bearings end up using more spool tension. But, if the bearings are shot, I see no reason NOT to replace with the best out there.

It does feel "flattened," and I actually think it is. Up here we use centrepin reels for trout fishing Great Lakes Tribs. These look like big fly reels but they aren't. They work like a baitcast spool in freespool all the time. Basically a big arbor on a set of bearings. We generally fish with mono, and I've heard stories of guys loading their reels entirely with mono, using tight wraps, and actually crushing the metal posts that the line wraps around! For this reason, we generally use fly line backer, and spool enough mono to deal with a good run from a hot chromer. This says to me that there is a great deal of pressure on the bottom wraps of line on the spool. I've never hear of anyone crushing a baitcaster spool, but I bet the line is getting flattened a bit. Since I don't fish with the backing line, It no concern to me, but you aren't alone in this observation. One thing to note, even the top wraps of line can get "coiling" due to memory, and you can either pull of a casts worth, and stretch it out by tying to a fence or tree, or simply fishing it tends to work that coiling out. One last thing - you CAN get twist in a baitcaster. Foul running baits, spoons, and inline spinners are the biggest culprits here. Teh solution is the same. use a quality swivel to avoid this, and troll out your line to remove twis should it occur.

It would depend on what model reels you own, and the current condition of the bearings.

The side mounted rigs look a bit unbalanced. It probably wouldn't matter on some boats, but could problematic on others. Keep in mind too, that you are limited in space to land a fish. Its not the same as a bow mounted TM on a bass boat, where there's more room to move around. Also, if you go this route, do a dry test to ensure you aren't inhibiting your paddling.

The problem with oil is it has a lower burn point. If you want the best for this, then use something made for this purpose, like Shimano Drag Star Grease or Cal's Drag Grease. Oil can get iffy really quick in the drag, and if you must use some lube there, I'd recommend the two brands above.

that's easy.a reel set totaly wrong and an uneducated thumb will do it.if you are shore fishing a backlash from snagging a tree without knowing it or just not realizing you are backlashing and not doing anything about it.beginners can make some terrible backlashes that you and i just shake our heads at. if you that bad at it, then pull off 50 yards or so of line, tape the spool, and reel up over the tape. No more terminal backlashes. PRACTICE!!!

Crayfish up here have blue highlights.

Depends. I just bought a replacement pair at Gander Mtn. on clearance...$50, LOL. many of the guys I fish with have a cheap pair, and a set of LL Beans. Yeah, the $250 ones with the lifetime replacement. The idea is, if the Beans leak, they send them them back, and wear the cheapos. I just buy the cheapos, and fish them like I stole 'em.

I have two pairs of neoprene, 3 mil, and 5 mil, and one set of breathable. You want breathable. Period. Neoprene might seem warmer, but trust me, once you sweat in them, and you will, you'll be colder. Its easier to use the waders as a waterproof shell, and layer accordingly underneath, If you fish a variety of substrate, you'll want choice of felt boots, studded, to just wading sandals, so go with sock foot. If you fish surf with sand or gravel, get boot bottom. Wool wading socks are a must in winter. I'm not too picky when it comes to features, but you want double stitched, taped seams and at least one waterproof pocket. Reinforced neoprene sock foot is a plus too. Always, I mean always wear your wading belt!

I doubt that at 17 years of age you have anything to offer that qualifies that statement. Yes, Samurai is excellent line, but it doen't mean Power Pro is "bad." There's much worse out there. For frogs (not solid body "toad" baits, like the Ribbit), I use 50 or 65# Power Pro.

1. Pick the size that you think will work better. Most days, it won't matter, on the days that it does, there's probably a lot more working against you. 2. Both proven colors. Get both. 3. Don't simply limit yourself to t-rigs. Jig trailers, weightless as a surface lure, c-rig, are all other options.