J Francho

you can put beer in the cooler so it DOESN'T freeze lol Sometimes you need to add a couple of hand warmers.... ;D

None. They are aftermarket product. Get them here: http://www.smoothdrag.com/

I'll add a few comments to .ghoti.'s list, which is pretty thorough. 1. I'm not going to say that this method won't work, but I think there's a bit too much greasing going in there, especially in the clutch cam components. And be sure the drag spring washers are installed like this: (), not )( as shown in the picture. 2. This works well on well worn reels. Simply wiping this out with a cotton swab is enough on newer reels without any wear. 3. Very true, though I like the sound. Boca was blowing Orange seals out for dirt cheap, and it made sense to use these as replacements to bad bearings, since often the Orange Seals were less than OEM! Stainless ABEC 5 are sufficient for 99% of all replacement applications, though. No sacrifice in smoothness, and properly oiled offer great performance. 4. I'm not totally sold on the replacement of the pinion support bush with a ball bearing. The pinion is disengaged from this bearing during the cast, though I can see where it would add smoothness to the retrieve, and reduce wear on the spool shaft. Revos don't use any bearing here, and they're pretty smooth. Now replacing a bushing on a spool shaft support, crankshaft base, or where the crankshaft protrudes from the handle side plate is a totally different thing. 5. If you're going to change anything, this is the one to do. Period. I wouldn't fish a reel without them. 6. You found pretty much what I've found. On certain apps it makes sense. Most cases, its just bling. 7. David (the old "Reel Mechanic") has the perfect book for those thinking about this. I picked it up a year or so ago, not so much to learn how it was done, but really to see how he did it, and validate what I was doing. I did find a nice surprise in there: spool bearing removal pliers. One my best tool investments.

Plus, you only fish with Senkos. ;D

That's why I asked. I can see where it would be down by the Chesapeake and The bigger bays, like Occuquan. I'm assuming a wade angler is further up the river.

You can flip and pitch with any rod/reel combination, including spinners. match the rod and reel to the cover. Personally, I wouldn't touch that combo with a 10' crappie pole, but to each his own. I'd be looking for a 7 to 7.5 heavy power rod, and a metal framed baitcaster.

one thing i did do out of boredom was i did spool and drive shaft Orange seal bearings on an old Daiwa BW2. ive not messed with it at all yet but it should be interesting to see what the thing does. Orange Seals are probably overkill for a graphite framed reel, but at the blowout sale prices Boca is offering, replacing the bushings with ball bearings makes this reel a cracker. I just finished an old Daiwa Prolite rebuild, replacing metal spool bushings with SS bearings, and adding a bearing to the crank stack, pinion support, and worm guide, and this 30+ year old reel casts as well as any new reel. Funny thing is, it weighs less than most modern aluminum frame reels, LOL.

Why not just get a heavy spinning rig for the heavy cover, if you're used to spinning? Any decent 3000 series spinner spooled up with 30-40# braid, and 7' pike rod should work fine for froggin'. Of course, don't let me discourage you from branching out...check the flea market for good conditioned used reels and a 7' heavy power casting rod. It need not be a top dollar, super sensitive stick. You'll be able to see when they bite.

I tried a few pakages of the Owners you linked to above, and while the hookup was good, the hooks were not very durable. I would have preferred black nickel finish and cutting point. Until they make that hook for me, I've great results with Gam. Finesse Wide Gap hooks in 1/0 and 2/0 sizes.

Is the Potomac salty? I didn't think it was. Anyway, if you know you're going to submerge the reel frequently, then I'd recommend a couple of things. Bearings and worm gears should be lubricated with something with a corrosion inhibitor. Yes, this oil isn't as fast, but it beats rusted bearings. Be sure all the access ports and parts are secure. Nothing ruins a reel quicker than a missing handle screw cap. I'd also be looking at a full featured saltwater reel, not a freshwater reel rated as safe for salt. For spinners, Daiwa Coastal or Shimano Spheros are well made reels. In Baitcasting, Shimano Curado or the TD-A based Daiwa Coastal would be good starts. If you had to nail me down, I'd say the Spheros represents the best bang for the buck.

I use it on tubes to fish for Browns keyed in on Gobies in spring. It was really an accident, as the tubes were already "marinating" in Megastrike, but I will say, it certainly didn't repel any bites. I've caught plenty of other species, using it as well - Northerns, pickerel, walleye, channel cats, perch, drum, you name it, anythingn that annoys the heck out of you in a tourney, I've caught it on baits treated with Megastrike, LOL. 8-)

Obviously, but I'd still like set his car on fire.

I'd show him how cars burn instead....

Depends on the reel. Orange seals aren't a huge upgrade over stock in a Sol. People screw up the seals on them all the time too. If the bearings are in good shape, then a flush and lube with quality oil will add all the performance gains most need. If the bearings are toast, sure, get good replacments.

I take my FF off all the time, to use on a rowboat my buddy has on a restricted lake nearby. Takes 5 minutes, six bolts. You wouldn't permanently mount the battery anywhere, have to remove it to charge it. Heck, I can't put my kayak on the roof rack with the battery in it, puts it over 90 lbs., which more than I can handle. Even if you don't remove it, the HB units Leave you with just the base, and nothing else in the way. Any unit will be fine, within your budget, though I consider GPS a must have now that I've had it for a couple years. Starting to feel the same about cover. My buddies all swear by Garmin 300. Decent unit for the price. Saw the new HB 385 this weekend, really nice unit. I'm still on the fence about a SI unit, and I'm probably getting an Aquaview. There's no limit, really.

There's always an open spot on my roof rack, if you ever get up here, LOL. I've tried to dig up the link that has Chad's and someone else's pics of the DIY install, but can't find it.

In a general sense, if your top water bait dangerously close to getting fouled by some weeds, then you're in the right place.

And a charger. You can do the TD yourself, the kit is just really easy. Many simply make a small square dam out of styrofoam, glue the "box" to the hull, add GOOP, and press in the TD. You know the site to ask this question....

UV based baits and scents have been the rage in the trout/salmonoid world for about a decade. It works for those species, but I have no clue about bass. I figured it was a matter of time before someone hypes it for other species.

Radio Shack sells deep cycle 12v home alarm batteries (Cat. No. 23-27) that work perfectly for this. I have a battery shelf in my boat for the batt, but a drybag works as well. Make sure you install a fuse. The Schumacher Battery Companion 1.5 amp trickle charger has done the job for me for two years now.

Any FF with a transom mount TD will work in a kayak. Add this kit, and you're in business: http://www.captdick.net/NEW%20PRODUCTS.htm Clamp on units are a pain, and get in the way. Just mount the head unit in a convenient location. Mine is on the "dash."

iwannabe.com This is just funny. I just pi$$ed myself LMAO. ;D

I agree, fluorocarbon is a BADchoice for topwater, but.... A casts worth of fishing line dragging a big old spook underwater? Mmmkay. :

That's nice work, bro.