J Francho
Super User
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Everything posted by J Francho
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I buy my graphs bundled with a Navionics chip, when available. I wouldn't be without it.
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I use mono, fluoro, copoly, braid, fused, and even a coated/fused line with a mono core. Every one has it's strengths and weaknesses. I prefer not to use leaders, but there are times when I do. There are dozens and dozens of threads, with no real consensus on which is best, even which is best for a certain application. I'll give you a few of my picks, but really it's a very personal thing when choosing line. cranks: mono/fluoro finesse plastics: fluoro jig/plastics in grass: braid/coply jig/plastics in rocks: fluoro/copoly jig/plastics in wood: braid with fluoro or copoly leader topwater: mono, Tuf-Line Supercast (coated, fused, mono core superline, floats, no stretch) suspending jerk/rip baits: copoly
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More detail, and lakes that might not be on the preloaded maps.
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From the Forum Rules & FAQs: Why does the site or product name I posted show up as "another site" or as ***? First it has nothing to do with competition. In most cases, it has something to do with the bullet point above - site owners not abiding by the rules of the forum, or over-zealous pro-staffers spamming the forums. In some cases, however, the site owner specifically requested that we do not link to their site.
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Crankbaits. And whatever one in my tackle box would hit bottom where I was fishing. I learned early on, that was when the most bites happened. I was just a kid, and on limited funds, so one $3 to $5 crank could catch 100's of fish, but you might need three or four bags of plastics for just one day.
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I don't know why they even market two versions of the bait. Makes no difference.
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Rope flies are the way to go. They get them tangled in the their teeth. Let them thrash a bit when they strike. then reel them in. No need for hooks.
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Prefishing and practice are key to success in any tournament.
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The problem is head count. I agree, when you get more than 25 boats, divisions would be a better idea. Though, I've beaten even electric guys with just a paddle.
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Tom nailed the areas I would have recommended. I think it's fine to put stuff on points, but that's likely where there are already fish. Something close, but off the point would bring more to those areas, and maybe bring size.
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I wouldn't worry too much about that fish - the knot worked as expected. You caught three others on the suspect end that broke.
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Exactly. There's also the issue of the tag end being slightly crimped when properly tying a Palomar.
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I usually toss the pics up on Facebook, and let them resize it, and use "Copy Image Location" and paste it here. That might help.
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First, structure refers to the physical make up of the bottom. Cover refers to things that bass can use to hide or ambush, like docks, weeds, laydowns, brushpiles, PVC trees, etc. You'd better consult with the DEP before adding anything to the lake. I know up here, it's illegal. I know things are little different by state, so check first. Locations I'd be looking for are the first break to deeper water, near spawning flats. Or, any shallow water close deeper water.
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The NY state record is not valid, in my opinion. It was not caught on a public lake, but in a private pond and is VERY suspect. The largest I've heard of in NY was a little over 9 lbs. I've never heard of any northern strain largemouth that approached the 20 lb. mark, let alone exceeds it.
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No, I mean it doesn't exist. You can think what you want, but it's pure fantasy.
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A 20 lb. largemouth bass in MA is pretty much near impossible.
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Sounds like there's your answer.
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Nobody cares what you run, when you deliver the goods and catch.
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There's also a ton of reviews: https://www.bassresource.com/content/search?SearchText=okuma&BrowsePageLimit=30
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Snag Proof made a similar bait years ago. Hollow frog with a boot tail. I have one somewhere. Never used it.
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I haven't touched the switch in decades.
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A small bit of split shot, a couple feet up the line won't kill the action, and will help keep the bait down in the wind.
