J Francho

Isn't this just so Mayweather can pay off back taxes?

It's just your opinion, but keep in mind they keep this site afloat.

Rod makers did this in the late 80s - early 90s. It's just the current trend. Agreed, they're ugly, and I don't like telegraphing my fishing to the entire world.

I've used fused super lines, like Gliss, with success. I did not use a leader, and tied direct for moving baits, like spoons and spinners. Be aware of your surroundings. These lines are much less forgiving in the abrasion department. I'd also offer that along with a larger 4000 series reel (good recommendation!), you may also consider a casting reel. They accommodate larger diameter lines much better. I have use a 9' casting rod for the king salmon run for years. much easier to deal with heavier line, and easier to control the fish on their unstoppable first run. Whatever solution you pick, good luck. P.S. Moved this to the other species category.

What T9 said, you cup the spool with your hand, and feather the line. Though really a quiet entry has more to do with distance and trajectory.

You're close, they are a herring.

I've caught 100's of chromers over 10# with 8# main line and a as low as 4# fluoro leader. If you want to use heavier line than 8# on spinning gear, get a bigger reel, or switch to a centerpin. The large arbor will accommodate larger diameters. https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/uploads/monthly_04_2015/post-12-0-42721800-1429035613.jpg

Perfect baits for what I described.

Trolling behind a kayak is a bit of a pain. 1 to 1.5 mph is optimal for most baits, and that's a VERY slow paddle. I generally get 3.5+ with minimal paddling effort. What I do best with is throwing a large, suspending jerk bait or a big jointed floating swimbait off to the side, or behind me when I'm fishing a spot. The random movement of the boat moves the baits along, and I often catch on the second bait. A MS Slammer or Mini Slammer are my favorites to use for this.

I just carry a chest pack for fly fishing. A M/F spinning rod and a H/F casting rod. bag of senkos bag of flukes bag of jig trailers a couple hollow frogs a few jigs hemocuts bag of hooks bag of split shot

If you want to add a track system, you have no choice but to drill. How do you think the factory puts them in? Hint: they don't use duct tape. A track will only increase the usefulness of your boat and probably increase it's desirability at resale, so long as the install is clean. The track system AVOIDS wrecking your boat with extra holes, and offers you tons of versatility in components and accessories. Track systems have become ubiquitous in the kayak fishing world, and have been used fishing rigs - especially aluminum - for years. But, you'll have to drill holes or have a professional installer drill holes, which will cost more.

You'll like a SOT much better for fishing. Get some seat time in a bunch of boats. Congrats on your first kayak bass!

I don't know how you're going to mount accessories without drilling/fasteners or gear track. As far as the TD goes, you can get a trolling motor mount transducer.

Take it back for an exchange. Seems so simple.

Wildy ATAK 140 with an Airpro seat: https://www.wildernesssystems.com/us/products/airpro-3d-seat-2 https://www.wildernesssystems.com/us/experience/team-blog/297/post/2015-fishing-kayak-year

I want to see what is at the Bonafide/Yakattack booths. New boat and transducer arm to debut.

What is the wrap hiding?

You never heard of drop shotting a pink buzzbait?

Cavitron. The end.

The "nicer" kayaks were meant to stand up better than budget brands. You're Old Town should be just fine.

Correct. I also use Panther Martins, and they are fixed, so... Also, I'm just reiterating the reasons why you might need one, what the benefits are, not picking on you. Sorry if it seemed that way. And to dispel the whole "knots are weak points in the system" myth. For float/drift fishing for salmon, browns, and steelhead we commonly employ two micro swivels, small enough to pass through the guides, in the terminal rig. That's five knots, using line as light as 4# for fish that can exceed 15#.

Ever used a spoon or an inline spinner? They generate twist. The swivel mitigates that. A swivel can also add a tiny bit of weight and free up a twitch bait, like a fluke, for a more random presentation. Speaking of, and this is something I learned here, you can put a bead above the swivel when using a fluke, and it looks like a bait fish chasing food.

Yes. It's also less expensive. It's one Duo-loc, per many swivels. I can use a smaller swivel with a #3 Duo-loc. SO, I'm tying the Duolock to the line, and attaching the swivel that's already on the spoon to that. It's sort of a reverse swivel. I've had just about every brand of snap-swivel fail on me, including Spro, LakeMaster, Eagle Claw, Sampo... I like a Spro or Raven swivel, as small as I can get away with, Owner HyperWire rings, Lazer Claw Duo locks. I've even tie my own pike leaders, using my preferred components.

I'm not sure, but I believe both use the same drag elements.

We have people who have lost 40-50' off the bluffs to waves pounding the base of the bluffs. In some cases, whole houses have perished.