J Francho

I like slider fishing. Haven't done it in years, though.

I've never had to two hand set any fish...

I have a niece and nephew on the spectrum, and things like this can be pretty hard to reverse.

Drum are fun, when you're not in a tournament and think you've hooked the next record smallmouth, lmao.

So do I - get that seat low, and monitors high! Though, being a developer, I don't actually type much, lol.

Get your phone out, snap pics, and contact the authorities. Crap like that cannot go unpunished.

I would throw a nod to the jig-worm, though it has been reinvented as some new-fangle Ned rig nonsense, lol.

I wonder if you're using "soft" Y-Z Hybrid. Anyway, my dad is a spinning only guy, and he'll go with 6# on a 1000, 10# on a 2500, 12# on a 4000, and actually has 17# on a 5000. As long as you troll out any twist accumulated, and use a line conditioner, it's fine. A lot depends on the line, too. I remember not being able to cast 8# Berkley 100%, but have no issues with 8# Invisx on a 2500 size reel.

Try three fingers forward of the foot to gain a little leverage.

Get extra spools for each. Then you can 6-8# Fluoro or 15-12# braid for your spinning, and 10-12# Copoly or 40-50# braid on your casting reel.

Wacky Wacky Jig Shaky Head Drop Shot Split Shot

Yes, yes they do. Purple Haze is a favorite.

Watch out for "top water claw"!!!!! This shows my grip as well as anything:

I have a pair of Costas....I keep them safe at the bottom of Lake Erie.

I treat every bite like it's a big one.

Not true, at all. However, with over a decade of experience standing and fishing in kayaks, I have serious doubts about what the OP plans. Most good stand up fishing kayaks have what's called "secondary stablility," meaning, you have to lean into one side or the other to gain the stability benefits of the hull design. In others, like my Commander 140, stability is inherent in the double tunnel hull. The FS128T, while a stable platform and standing can be achieved, does not benefit from either design.

When fishing deep smallies, I've had them come up the other side of the boat, jump, and managed to get them in the net. It's nuts when they do that.

Approximate hull weight is 1009 lbs. Add the outboard weight, passengers, tackle, live-well water, and gasoline, and I bet you're over the 1500 lb. capacity of the micro pole.

Where ever there is surface slop.

If your charger has a conditioning mode, then yes, you should leave them on the charger 24/7.

I fish out of a Commander 140. I have NONE of the issues you describe. The same could be said of the Pungo. Both good fishing options that are not SOT. I also own a Coosa. I'll just say this: it sucks. Worst boat I've ever owned. It's only redeeming qualities are that it floats (barely, since the hatches leak so bad it actually accumulates more water than my commander, and the hull design is very wet) and the seat, which is what lulled me into it at first.

First, you need to work on boat control when fish go deep. Before you make a cast, you need to plan what direction you set the hook, and anticipate where you are going to go with boat using the trolling motor to prevent the situation you describe. You cannot expect to land a fish if the line is rubbing on the boat. Use the trolling motor, sink the rod under the water - anything to prevent this! Next step, a medium casting rig with 12# fluoro will give you added control and strength to avoid those break offs, and hopefully give you some muscle to get them boat side before they run deep.

I agree, the gobies changed the game, the size, the locations, and quantities - though differently on each of the GLs I've fished. 's just a funny observation I've made over and over - the fish I catch aren't puking up any gobies.

Owner Riggin' Hook was practically made for butt rigging Ikas.

Genny Light