J Francho

It shouldn't "come down" to that level - it's a prerequisite of membership. From the Forum Rules and FAQs:

I t really depends on what I'll be throwing, but I like a shorter, medium/XF rod for spinners and topwater, a stout finesse spinning rod with braid and a leader, and either a jig and worm rod, or a crank rod.

As long as the bearings work properly, and the spool is pretty well balanced, there no difference. Anything else is simply bling. It's an arbor on a couple of bearings - big bearing packs, at that. If a reel is "smoother" or takes less effort, generally a bearing flush and lube is all that's required to get a $200 Okuma to work like a $1000 Kingpin. I have a 10' Convergence (a level below the Clarus, I believe?) with a Michigan grip, and I love it for small ditches.I think it was all of $60. Beautiful chrome, btw!

You think that's a southern thing? It's even more a thing up here. It's pretty hilarious, really.

I think I probably learn the most through new members. Their questions seem basic,fundamental, and sometimes even silly on the surface, but thinking about these building blocks of fishing, and teaching others can lead to self reflection, and remind of areas we probably taske for granted. Look at all the knot threads. How about guys that can't seem to fish a jig through weeds? Why do we use braid? Why do we use leaders? When is a crank better than a plastic? Dovetail that type of sharing with the elevated conversations Catt is talking about, and a lot of these new anglers are going to simply shorten that 90% bell curve of anglers - the old 10% catch 90% of the fish thing.

I think I'd call the LDC production rods more like a "prebuilt custom." They're still one guy building rods, and even though they're not really "custom," they are craftsman level product, not factory built. Maybe I don't know what I mean, lol. Boyd Duckett talked about testing spiral wrapped guides, but said testers and the public couldn't accept it.

I might have a resource I can check. PM me the stream.

Not sarcasm, I use comic sans font for that.

Ok, I get it - similar to how I do it when I use braid. Thanks!

Let's eat, Grampa! Lets eat Grampa! Same thing, really.

You tie the braid straight to the spinshot hook? So the fluoro tag/leader line is just to break off hangups?

It's pretty much the story on almost EVERY production rod. Even the ones with a fore grip.

I generally just use 6#, and start at 1/2 oz. I'll go up to an ounce if necessary. Instead of switching line though, I'll move up to a medium power rod.

Oh, and I think the Scorpion has knob bearings.

The USDM Curado lacks mystique and will not elevate your social class status.

Not everyone likes braid for everything. I fall in that camp. in fact, if can AVOID braid, I will do it. It has no slack line sensitivity, tangles easily, can be problematic with dig ins on baitcaster, and wind knots on spinning gear are infuriating. That said, around half my rigs have it. As far as the original question, dollars to donuts the line wasn't spooled up with enough tension. I used Suffix in 12, 14, and 17 lb. sizes for years (after switching from Trilene) without issue. These days, I use 12 or 15 lb. CXX for Texas rigs, though if you're having management issues with the Sufix, that line might not be for you. It can be a handful.

Wow, a spiral wrapped production rod. Cool!

You need to pop and stroke the jig, to clear the grass, and let it settle in a new spot. The problem isn't the bait, it's the way you're fishing it. If you want something to drag through the weeds, then some of the suggestions above will work well. If you want to fish a jig, you'll have to learn how to work those weeds horizontally. You are popping it up to the surface, to the next spot, and then letting settle, penetrating the next patch of weeds or pocket in the weeds. Often, you get bit when popping it off the weeds, too. Be ready, even if you think you're just clearing weeds.

You've really made it, when you get your microwave and toaster oven for making baits.

I'd go medi9um power as well, and up the length. More length gives you more rod under load with a fish on, and helps keep bigger fish pinned when they do weird things. Think of it as a chock absorber. A 7-6 rod has more travel than a 6' rod. The extra 18" actually equates to 36" of rod travel when fighting a fish.

You have that stuff too? There are huge patches of it on Oneida..... I won't say if there are fish in there or not, lol.

Treat it just like a squealing fan belt - spit on it!

I'd keep one, tune it up, and sell the rest to fund new reels.

They are paternal mouth brooders, which means the male carries the eggs in his mouth until they hatch.

It's the second Monday of an odd numbered month - flip casts only today!