J Francho

I'll hopefully be able to put a 7-11 MH cranking rod from Pinnacle through it's paces before everything freezes.

And I might be wrong about putting hi speed gears in that reel. It's been three years since that build. I think I pulled the gears from that, and put them in a 1500 or 2500? And put slow gears in. My memory is fading. I wish I had a pick with the spool in. The shallow whiffle spool is a work of art.

Don't bother with it unless both ends if the worm gear are bearing supported. Otherwise, nothing is smoother than a new worm and pawl, after some break in.

That might be righter, lol. My memory is over 40.

Uhhh, generally what you see recommended is a power that handles the weight of the bait, not some general medium recommendation. I have six rods to throw cranks, two are MH, and another is actually a heavy power. One of mine is even a fast action. Depends on what you're doing with them, and it depends on the model....

I used to throw DD22, they're great baits. These days I throw a LC CBD20. Pretty much the same bait. I still have a few DD22's though. Might have to break them out.

Nice. Needs a cleaning though. Here's a Wiffle Spool that I upgraded with high speed gears, Carbontex drags, double bearing supported worm gear, ceramic pawl, hybrid bearings, and a Winch handle.

LOL, turn the pan 90°ccw, and it's left to right, top to bottom.

350°F, middle rack, 22 mins, or until a toothpick inserted comes out clean.

http://www.daiwafishing.com.au/td-sol-ii-baitcaster/

Christen her, "Archie Bunker's Sofa"! Looks good. Time for fish catch selfies!

Fixed it. I really don't know why people buy OS bearings. Just get the shielded version. A bearing can't get crapped up with what can't get in there, and regular maintenance is status quo for those that upgrade bearings anyway - that's why you never hear about problems running bearings open. For the user that doesn't do anything until something goes wrong, it's a bad choice.

Opening price was $229. The next year they went up to $249. I believe TW blew them out the door at $104 when they were disco'd. Stock was very limited, though. I'd do $150 for a NIB today - not a bad deal on a great reel that is easily transformed into whatever you want it to do.

The days of using a $20 rod are looooong gone for me. Nice to see guys are reviewing rods at this price point. I would have no idea what to recommend at that price.

Some are "press in" and you pretty much ruin them taking them out. Others have a c-clip retainer. Removing those pretty much ruins them too, though I suppose you can try to put them back in. I don't bother removing metal shields. It's not necessary. If you don't care that anything gets in there, take them off.

I'll bet dollars to donuts that the induction hub came loose. It's not a common problem at all.

A boy has stay pretty.

PB Blaster, brother.

Here's a pic.....

I wrap a hair band around the butt grip, and pop the weight through it.

I'd stick to this plan: http://fish.shimano.com/publish/content/global_fish/en/us/index/customer_service0/reel_maintenance_instructions.download.-mainParsys-0001-downloadFile.html/Maintenance%20Tips-%20Baitcasting%20Reels%20%282%20pages%29.pdf

The rotor is not connected to the AR sleeve in any reel I've ever worked on. You should be able to infer what direction the roller bearing is installed using the method I posted above. You'd have to know what direction the rotor spins in the first place (usually clockwise, looking at the face), though. Maybe that's the disconnect? At any rate, marking the the top of the AR won't hurt anything, and if it helps, go for it.

What model?

Not sure how you can keep track of up or down, when you have to wash the parts... Just put the tube in the AR bearing, and turn. That will tell you which way it goes back. Some bearings even have an arrow stamped for the direction they turn. Otherwise, I've yet to encounter a part that goes in the "wrong way" and yet allows the reel to work. Clutch springs can be tricky - on reels that have two, I recommend taking a a quick cell phone snap before removing them, so you can tell which goes in the top and bottom. Generally, the smaller one goes on the bottom, connected to the kickplate.

There's two pros in this thread, lol.