J Francho

Largies, smallies, trout - it's all good. Plenty to go around.

You want to use the brush head style or rocker/arky style with wood. They both sit hook up at the bottom. The rocker/arky style adds a "kick out" when it collides with wood that often triggers strikes. Other times they want it more subtle.

That would look sick on a Revo SX or Daiwa PX Type R.

Just check your knot, by giving a firm tug, enough to pull drag, on the hook, and then another tug on the tag end, and you should be good to go. I do this after aver fish, or 10 or so casts.

When it's not in my driveway, it's in my grandfather's pole barn. Since he doesn't raise t-breds anymore, there's room for two boats, a utility trailer, and then some.

If you are fishing it deep, note the depth you are in on the graph. Drop the bait over the side, and count it down to the bottom. Now, with a little math, you can get a fall rate. If you are marking suspended fish, note their depth, and count the bait down to just above that depth before starting your retrieve. This will put your bait right in the zone.

Any spinner around $120 will be decent. Same for any baitcaster at about $150. I personally stick with the bigger brand names. I prefer reels made in Japan. That can push you into the $200 price point, though.

I don't really do anything different. The key to efficiency is really just time on the water. You'll identify things you do that eat up time, and change your process from there.

A can assure you that Noel's spots are better than mine, lol. But we'll do it sometime.

The Susky is closed in several counties from May 1 - Jun 14. http://fishandboat.com/fishpub/summary/bass_cr.htm

Forgot to quote it!!!!

I was responding to a post about the other lines, that has since been removed.

Oh, I know. It can be a sensitive topic, though.

Outside of the initial stock, most waters do not require stocking.

It doesn't matter how big the ring for the sinker is, so long as it fits the main line tie ring. To clarify, the reason you want the hook and weight to sing freely is for weed penetration. Everyone thinks this a compact, drop shot rig, and it can be. But the real strength is in it's penetration through weeds, while remaining weedless. It's BETTER than a pegged Texas rig in moderate to heavy (not slop, nothing beats a punch rig for that) milfoil and coontail. The weight drags the bait and line straight down, with your bait vertical. Give it slack, and it doesn't glide back to you. It works REALLY well with "action tailed" baits, like Ragetail craws.

Sounds good, that should work. Try it, and report back.

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/114561-top-100-bass-waters-in-the-us-did-your-water-make-the-cut/?hl=%20top%20%20100 I have four lakes near me in the top 100.

PA has some delicate fisheries, definitely not as robust as the Finger Lakes and Great Lakes up here. Some of those fisheries can easily be damaged by bed fishing, or that's the perception anyway. Susky, Juni, etc.... Some go NUTZ if they hear you were fishing beds. A biologist told me that 70% of the population do not spawn. Where are those fish? Just beyond the beds, lol.

Probably another reason I see so many PA plates up here. Here's you answer to not making repeated casts: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/dropshot-bedding-bass.html

We're talking about Supercast. http://www.tuf-line.com/products_TUF-Lines_23.html

Make sure the main ring is strong. Honestly, I don't think you're saving much making your own. It's like $3 per rig, and the hooks are bar none. I don't recall losing a single one last year.

On any that I have used, there is a solid, welded ring, you tie to that. From that ring, you hang the weight with a small split ring. I would NOT tie directly to the hook. The whole point of the rig is to allow the bait and weight to swing independently of both each other and the line.

Not until mid June here, Kueka Lake.

I'm in. (null)

Do you mean the ring you use for the line connection or the one for the weight?