J Francho

Seems you know more than the custom builders, lol. If it's so cheap, why is everyone switching to alternative materials, like Hypalon? It smells like a duck to me.

You're right, it's a 744. I have that and a 745. My swimbait rod (custom) is 7'9", and the Dobyns are a little shorter. Posting by the seat of my pants, lol.

I match the hook to the bait, not the fish. All hooks hook fish. This fish was caught on a #6: And this fish caught on a 5/0 hook on a bubba rig:

I have the 794, with a full rear grip. I prefer having a full rear grip for this. It's just what I'm used to. As far as the rod goes, it's probably one of the nicest in my collection.

Those BPS weights are an awesome add to your terminal box! So many uses.

It should.

0119, it's a $10 difference between the split and full grip on a Dobyns. They use quality cork - no graining or divits - and all things being equal, the full grip costs more. Three custom rod builders said it costs more. Even cheap cork is a buck an inch - check the prices on Mudhole: http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/Cork-Rings. Those little winding checks are cheap. So, you can form your opinion based on the facts, or not. Sometimes I think you just like to say the opposite for the sake of debate. OE, you might be right. I know that there were several split grips before my Accuflex. Many mid-level rods went to EVA. At the time, a disease was the blame for the cork shortage, and considering that a "high end" rod at the time was about $120-150, adding $20 to the bottom line was a big chunk out of profit margins. I know I struggled to find good rods with cork grips, under $100. I think that's about the time I started fishing Fenwicks, and later Team All Stars.

Aluminum winding checks are $1-5. AAAA Grade cork is $2.50/inch.

I prefer to use a more compact jig, but if I must, 6/0 Owner Beast. Often times, when the cover is thicker, I'll switch to the Trash Fish.

When you put a trailer on it, a bedding bess will pick it up by the tip of the trailer, and deposit outside the nest. You set, you whiiff. With a compact living rubber puffball skirt, and the silicone accents, the fish will bite, and have no choice but to slurp the whole thing in, hook and all. It works. I've been using other "finesse" type jigs like this (Skinny Bear, Kietech, Bitsy Bugs, Stanleys) for a few yeas now, but this jig has a REAL HOOK in it.

Kent, bust out your flipping stick, and get the 3/4 oz. in brush or arkie. Get it with a bubble gum or chartreuse silicone for sight fishing, when the big girls are on beds. No trailer necessary.

No problem

Then trim the toothepick:

Let's keep politics out of the discussion, and pray for a safe resolution.

I have a few "potty" shots.

Early 90s. Here's a split grip from Berkley from then:

Weighted swimbait hook with a centering pin. Nonsense. They excel in low at visibility with all that tail thump.

Well, if it helps any, I prefer a full rear grip for cranking. I like to tuck the butt under my arm, and the cork is more substantial and comfortable to fish that way.

No one mentions 7" ribbon tail worms anymore. Now it's all about creatures.

Do the toothpick trick....it works.

At $80, they are at least half of what other aftermarket cost, especially considering they come with bearing supported cork knobs.

Dobyns Champ Extreme rods with a full rear grip are $10 more than a split grip.

Rock bottom is rock bottom. Doesn't matter how you got there, just realize you can only go up.

Back in the 90s, when cork prices shot up, Daiwa's explanation for split grips was cost savings, especially on their flipping sticks. Maybe .RM. or DVT mike could put this question to rest.

I've had the same five baits on my umbrella rig since last spring, save one that tore up when unhooking a fish. Super glue them to the jig head, put a toothpick crosswise through the bait, inside the band of the hook, and do repairs with Mend-it, and they will last you several fish.