DeBassin619

I have an opportunity to purchase one of these reels used, and I wanted to know what you guys think of them.

There have been a lot of good replies, but I'll give my stance. The question is.. what's more important? not are both are Important?!! I think we all agree that if we could choose to have $150+ reel and a $150+ rod.. we would opt do that. I think most would agree that most of the time you get what you pay for. There are exceptions such as garage sales, clearance items, ebay etc. There are also rod and reel manufactures that do happen to pump out a quality retail product of around $100 dollars when it should be given a $150-200 price tag. But it's hard to determine those in our overly marketed world. If you ask me which I'd rather fish with it's a $150 plus reel.. I do like the feel and drag setups on those machines BUT My vote goes for the ROD as the MOST IMPORTANT. many people have listed problems associated with cheap reels such as Drag, Birds nest and casting distances. The drag is perfectically understandable. There is not much you can do with cheap hardware, but to lube, oil, and clean those parts. But the other two (Birds nests, casting distances) can be improved on by using line conditioner, spooling the line correctly, knowing how to properly adjust the casting control, drag, and tension knobs, using quality line and using a longer rod. a quality Rod is what gives you the feeling if there is a fish on the line, the power to get the fish in the boat and the comfort of being able to cast all day without paying for it in the long run. The main thing is being able to spot a good deal when you see one and know what all those features listed for each the rod and reel translates into what you get out of it in a fishing situation.

really, maybe I'll have to try those rebels. I've always had good luck with the shallow running crawdad ones. Anyways, I am specifically looking for information regarding these Cotton Cordell Bananza baits: Though, thanks for the tip. These are jerkbaits, but they also have crankbaits.

I take it that you have fished these baits?

These are not apart of the BIG O line. I think these are 1.97 retail cranks.. I think they are made my two companies, but I could be wrong. I know Cotton Cordell makes quality crankbaits such as the wally diver and the BIG O for example, but I don't think these particular cranks/jerkbaits are in the same class as those lines of bait that sell for $4 - $7 retail. That is why I am asking people if they have fished these particular 'Cotton Cordell Bonanza baits'..

Yeah, I was hoping to know how the deeper cranks/jerkbaits worked too. Though, thanks for your reply.

I was wondering if anybody has used these Cotton Cordell cranks/Jerks? My walmart currently has these CC cranks and jerkbaits for $1.97. I believe they say 'Bait Bonanza' at the bottom of the packaging. IF you have, I was wondering are they any good? I know cotton cordell makes some really good baits, but I didn't know how good this line of cheapies are. So, what are your experiences with these and better yet, have any of you used these for walleye fishing?

X2..... I think it's always nice to have some less expensive combos around. For one, if they break theres not much heartache and two, they can be used as "loner rods". Sure, some of the higher end models can feel great and work well mechanically but the question that needs to be asked is: How much better of a fisherman do they really make someone? I'd rather make an investment in baits (bulk) than rods. Regardless, I think people should have a mixed assortment of each. I'd tell someone starting out to save up for 3-5 higher end models in each of the gear ratios and actions needed for each presentation. Which, would be about two quality bait casting combos and two spinning. I think helping someone match the correct action,ratio, to the presentation they usually fish, is more important than anything. Of course, If money wasn't an issue, I'd most often opt out for more of the higher end stuff.

Yeah but that so key in becoming what you want to be or want to accomplish in life. You have to realize you haven't arrived yet and that motivates you to want to keep learning and becoming better at what you do. Here's a good link that may help you with understanding water clarity (sunny vs cloudy) more. http://www.freebassl...rityAndBass.htm

^^It's better to let only him be the one concerned with that. I actually enjoyed some of the episodes. He seems very light-hearted and charismatic. But I can see how some would get tired of his show after awhile.

Hey all, I was wondering: what's the most durable craw plastic out there on the market? Anyone have any idea or other suggestions? Even though, both netbait's paca chunk (craw) and Rage tail's Craw have served me well, they aren't very durable. I'm just looking for another alternative craw plastic to try out.

Learn to fish a Football Headed Jig or a C-rig. It would work great for the quarry. Learning to fish a jig will definetly get you out of your comfort zone. Actually, any deep water presentation will.

It could be the size. Try a smaller size.

At what depth were they at? You could throw anything from a Pop R to a fluke. You could also try a fluttering spoon or a shad like swimbait.

Also, make sure your throwing it at the right time of day. When are you throwing it? I find mornings and especially evenings are the way to go. It could be very possible you are throwing it in an area that is not holding any fish or there just inactive.

Thanks. What about bodies of water that don't really have a real creek or channel? Of course, I'm not denying that you can catch bigger fish shallow but when it's a hot and in the afternoon, you can bet that there will be atleast a couple holding to some sort of deep structure. The main reason why I asked this question was to find out if it was even worth buying some deep-diving cranks or bothering with some deep-vertical presentations. Theres places I fish that can be 40 ft. deep and just wanted to know how far down I should go.

Hi, I was just wondering what the differences are between the Oxygen levels in lake vs a pond? I want to be able to fish for bigger bass, in deeper water, this summer but want to know how deep they'll be and how to adjust the depth i'm fishing, in accordance, to if it's a pond or a lake.

Has Anyone fished the Tru-Tungsten Mad Maxx furious frog?

Well, so far this late-pre fall season has been tough. But a little 3nch and 6 inch Banjo minnow has been the ticket for me.

Yesterday, While fishing during a breezy day, I observed what I call "flying V's" going through the water. It was along the shore and sometimes out in the middle of the pond I was fishing. I've seen this in the past and always wondered whether it's a fish swimming really fast, the wind or something else. So, anyone else know what I'm speaking of and if so, do you know what it is? Sometimes, The V's would swirl around, almost like it were chasing something and other times, it would just fallow half-way along a bank. The water was a lightish brownish stained; So, you really couldn't tell what it was by looking down under the "V".

If it has rained, for that long, I would use lures with some noise and flash. The water will probably be darker, especially if it's still over cast. So, I'd use: spinnerbaits, in-line spinners, lipless cranks, cranks, jerkbaits, flukes(other soft-jerkbaits) etc. Most of it is going to be dependant on what the conditions(clarity, color) are like, for the type of water you fish.

Hi, I'm currently looking into the art of "punching" for bass and I want to know if I could just peg the weight with a tooth pick, instead of using a black plastic stopper ahead of the bullet weight. If so, anyone know a good resource they could post that would show this in the rig setup? I want to make sure I'm pegging the weight in the right spot and so therefore, It would end up working properly.

When theirs wind involved, you may want to go deep, lipless crank w/Silver or goldish flash with some natural fish coloring/patterns.. What are the conditions your faced with exactly?

For me, this is one of the most confusing things to understand. Especially, when your trying to apply the lingo "match the hatch" in attaching a color pattern to the type of water you normally fish. It's hard to understand if when people are using a term to identify the "Clarity" of water if : there referring to color of the water or depth there able to see the bait (depth at which light no longer penetrates in creating visibility) or both. Which, the color of the water can effect your ability in seeing the bait. I think theres a lot of flipping around or mitch-matching of the terms. Which, It's hard to explain what I exactly mean by this and/or what factors confuse me about this subject. For example: Someone may used the word "Dark" as an describing word. But One person sees or takes "Dark" water as meaning "Muddy" and not murky or abyss-like. Which, it can confuse people because I would think you would use totally different color schemes in Muddy water, as opposed to deeper, darker water. Or Knowing what is exactly meant by "Stained" water, in Comparison, to what is meant by "dingy" water etc.. Basically, not knowing the logic in the criteria for identifing and matching water types. So, Anyone else have a hard time understanding the point-of-view of Terminology used for water identification and color selection (lure color) for each paticular water type also? I tend to micro-look at things, which tend to make things even more confusing. But anyways, This is what comes to my mind or my understanding of the terms, so far, when each water clarity identification term is used. Whether, that may be in an article or when people use them in a post: Which, This can affect whether the color choice I use is correct, as maybe opposed to what an author would use or was trying to bring across as proper. I might be wrong, Which that wouldn't be surprising and thats why It would be nice for clarification or a better explanation of the lingo or logic used in discerning what type of water clarity I fish and apporiate colors to use. Clear water: water color is lighter and I can see the bait at a greater distance down. (Like dropping an object into a bathtub). I think of shallow "Ocean water" when I think about clear water clarity. Tea color or murky (creepy) water : The water is clearer, meaning it does not have a "Milky" texture or an extreme dirtyness to it. But, it's a darker shade and therefore, you can't see all the way down due to the darkness inbetween. Basically, I think of darker sweet tea in a glass. You can still see the bottom of the glass but the water color itself has a darker shade to it. Which, influence the visibility of the bottom and fish at deeper depths because of a light's limited ability to penetrate through it. Stained: Water color is lighter but has dirtyness to it. You can still see your bait but the water looks to have impurities to it, Whether from duckweed or fresh rain that washes light color mud in it. Dirty water: Basically, The bottom visibility is greatley limited or you can't see it whatsoever. But, The water color can be a light, milk chocolate shake look (mocca) or it can look like Dark chocolate or have an extremely muddy appearance. Once again, I use the example of the type liquid in a glass. You can't see the bottom of a glass with "dark" chocolate milk in it. So, Can anyone give a basic and easy understanding of the logic used to identify and match a body of water, to it's proper water classification and color selection?

Exactly, That's why I eluded to that I also wanted Durability in a soft plastic right after Action. Zoom is a really good brand but they haven't really made what I'm looking for in a creature bait. Good solid plastics though for me. Being a budget fisherman, I want to get the best possible deal for the price i'm paying. If one is going to end up paying 4.5-10 dollars a pack for 8 or less soft plastics, Then it would be nice for them to hold up a little longer. If you are fishing a tournament, where you are fishing by the clock for speed and and a quick bite, Then I can understand paying that much per pack. But if you are a free-time fisherman, It can add up pretty quickly. I mostly like to target bigger fish when I use Creature baits; so, I like bigger and more durable plastics to scare off smaller fish and hold up against numbers of fish that aren't in my Target weight class. For Example: El Paca craws are great but you can only get 1-2 fish out of them. It's not worth it if your fishing a pond with a high population of "Smaller" aggressive fish or you fish quite frequently throughout the summer months. So, That's why It's nice to have a more complete balance between durability and yet, still having a killer enough action of the Soft-plastic. You get the best possible deal that includes both aspects you find valuable in a product for the price for quantity. A lot of this is dependant on what your goals for that paticular day. Some fish for Numbers (eating, tournament, Mutual competition with friends, etc), Some fish for a specific Bite, That would indicate a bigger class of fish Some are just looking to have a great time fishing and don't care regardless of whats on the end of their line.