DeBassin619

Since there has been a lot of talk on Soft-Plastics; I want to know what Company makes the best (For Value) plastics in both Durability and Action department. What brand of Creature Bait company Plastics have served you well in both Action And......Durability department so far? Rate and List your top Five.

Listen, If it's a matter of beating your partner at fishing for the day RoLF, Then there are plenty of other lures that will outfish a crank. Unless, The conditions of the day were ideal for cranking: Which, do you remember What they were? (sky, water temp, water clearity, any wind, what kind of structure and cover were you fishing etc). Also, What color were you using? What color was he using? Was there any weight or rattles in any of them, In comparison, to each other's? Were they the exact same type of crank (Deep, shallow, lipless, mid etc) or was there any difference? It sounds like it was a combination of: Location, Presentation and merchandise. But idk and how were you retrieving the bait? It's hard to gage without having a mental picture of exactly what the fishing day setup was. It does matter to an extent of how much something cost in this context but it's not an absolute. Like anything, Somethings Value is determined on the abiity level of the individual putting said item to use or to work with it. I'm personally impartial to the idea of spending that much money on a crank. That is, the crank's that have a straight bill and not talking any lipless crank's or creature rebel's. Just the standard picture that comes to mind in a mentioning of a "crankbait". Reason being, There not a very versatile bait for me and there one of the easiest baits to end up being lost. I'm not denying the fact they work but it's not a matter of "if it works". It's a question of "how often" and under "what conditions"?! If I ever created a bait ( have some ideas), The true test of my confidence in it would be selling it for less and yet, making more than someone who would charge 4-5x's for a similar "Looking" Product. Price doesn't always gage the quality or workability of a product, in comparison, to another brand of product.

You could look at this either way. I have had a couple of experience of which you have described. Rolo and Hiram have both provided some good helpful advice. If it's true about the ratio of Blue Guill to bass (10:1) and There are other species of large Game fish like: Catfish, Northern; It's no wonder that there seems to be a lack of growth and forage. Especially, The Northerns aren't good in an unbalanced fish community. The big thing to look for with these 2-2.5 pound fish is: The size of the head, in comparison, to their body. IF the head is thicker, than the thickest part of the fish's body, It shows theirs a lack of forage. Being that it's a decent size lake, You could just be not in the right location or offering the correct presentation. It's hard to tell without having a history of the water, In which you are referring to or seeing the layout of the water. I have fished waters where they had been recently stocked and some people just thrown some big ones in there and they have grown 3-4x times ahead of thee other bass members in there. So, It gives the appearance that the pond is worst of then what it is or better than what is actually is. I have also fished bodies of water that have been overed Fished or have a high population of trash fish that compete for food. Also, Have fished very old bodies of water that have had a good rep but the water is dieing off due to lack of forage, Oxygen, Fish kill, etc.. Here is some advice: 1. See if you can dig up some history of that paticular body of water. Try to find or seek out some older members who have worked the quarry or live in the surrounding community who have fished or know some who have. Information Like: Fish kill, restocking, draining and refilling etc are very helpful information in this regard. 2. Second, Post a picture of the water (without showing the surround standing area) To give an idea of what exactly there is for structure and cover overall of this body of water. 3. Keep a log of what you have fished and the results you have been getting, in accordance, to the time of the year phase. 4. Fish with big "Shiners". It'll not only have a better chance of enticing bigger members of the bass community but give you an idea of the activity amount of the other species of fish aswell. 5. Talk to the local owners and the Wildlife agency (DNR or whatever agency) about shocking the water for population assessment.

I stumbled across this bait site and have been pleasantly suprised. Anyone Fish This Creation Bait company? They have an awesome frog-half-craw looking topwater softplastic. Also, What is your go to or favorite Jig N Pig/Craw Setup: (Could be for Big fish, strictly for Numbers or both.) Include your Perferred: Size of Jig,Type of Jig, Brand of Jig, Type of Trailer, Brand of Trailer, Color etc of Choice... Mine Would have to be: 3/8 oz- 1/2 oz, Booyah (So far), Mostly Swimming, Craw, RageCraw, Black and Blue or Greenish brown variety. Though, I generally like to Target bigger fish when Jigging. So, I want to start using some other brand of jigs that are more densly skirted and use more football headed Jigs for deeper/bottom applications. I like jigs that create a bigger, fuller bodied Craw inmator Look. Has anyone experimented and had success with a blue and White Combination skirt/craw look?

Big. In Winter, Location is the ticket. A Bass is lethargic, So he doesn't want to burn what energy he has left chasing a lure. Big and slow is the ticket. The bigger the lure, the more likely it'll be put closer to the fish and he'll see it better. A bass might think it's not worth it to spend time consuming a big meal but on the other hand, He'll have to eat less from there on out. He has a lower metab and having a fuller stomach we'll make the wait to spring that much more barable. I mean, think about us here in America: Why do we love fast food so much? Is it more appealing at first, For smaller, expensive, and healthier portions or Convient, Filling (fattening), and Cheap food?

Okay, I have a couple of questions. 1. Has anyone made Spinnerbait skirts? If so, What materials do you use or work best? 2. Is anyone currently working on a Crawdad imitiation type lure (not a crankbait)? 3. What is the best way to re-attach an ole wire eye(kind where wire is wrapped, twisting around itself) thats from an old surf rod/Pen Outfit?

I like the idea of Having "One" tackle box and having more on stock of what is in there. The less you have and the more your forced to fish it. You begin to teach yourself how to fish it with new techniques learned from trial and error from all angles. You'll know when it works/doesn't work well by the season, water clearity, conditions and based on the waters you fish (fish pop and aggressiveness). There are people that only fish with 1-2 lures all year long but they are masters at their craft and are so familiar with the bait in all ways. This keeps us from wanting to give up to easily on a lure and fall for the next big thing . The Jitterbug is a lure that has stood the test of time. It is easily one/if not the best top water bass catching lure of all time. I know once I understand all the factors that impact a lure success or choice of a lure, The less I need to buy and become a better fisherman. If one has to pay 15-20 dollars for a Crankbait, I would hope it catches fish on almost every cast. But, I never experienced enough success with a Crankbait to put that amount of faith in it. it's not that much of a versatile bait compared to a jig or a worm which can cost considerablyless but has probably produced more fish. I'm a patterns guy and I go by what the majority finds true. You can easily get talked into or talked out of by what you read. It's one of those things you have to find out if it's right for you by experience and putting all the facts together. Jigs were the one bait I didn't have much faith in but once I understood better how to fish them and how most of it is a "One bite for Big fish" philosphy; They are all I want to fish now. Things have been produce for so long and looked from all angles, That I don't think there will be much "Newness" or Difference from the lures from here on out.

Yeah 8 Bucks isn't worth it with plastic worms that break that easy. Senkos are good for a tough bite but not worth it in the long run for me. In our Mass Market world where things are copied and theres always something new being produced; I'll less likely get addicted. They work but there are a million or so lures that have been produced that will catch fish. I remember when they first came on the scene and I remember wanting to order a bunch. Having fished them and knowing what it takes to fish them; I'm glad I didn't burn a whole in my wallet. I'll still buy a few packets if on sale but it's not worth paying market price for a bunch. (opinion). The best plastic worm I've ever used was a Red shad Zoom Curly tailed worm on an 1/8 jighead and still fish it today or a T-rigged Razor Worm jigged off the bottom.

I'll probably get frowned on for saying this but I still have a few components of the original 1996 Banjo minnow set and previously owned some from 2001 set. Now, The newer versions plastic are even more versatile. Comparing a Zoom super fluke and the Banjo Minnow: I can fish the banjo minnow more ways and can catch better numbers on average across the different seasons of the year. I agree Op, That some days the fluke is killer, Especially, in early-mid summer. Though, I find it's action is so limited and there's not enough versatility in that soft-plastics make/action. So, I too perfer better soft-plastics that can be fish more ways. The dying crippled minnow retrieve on the BJM was one of the most dynamite, deep water/suspending tactics that had ever came to my knowledge. It was so cool to be able to fish a soft plastic weightless and yet, still be able to fish it at mid-deep depths efficiently. Granted, It needed to be fished on a sensitive, fast-action rod for the best results but it's was worth paying the $$ for a Loomis. Though, I haven't fished them for two years or so. But when/if I go fishing next, I need to break what I have out. Some people say its a gimmick and overly hyped but I've caught fish on it when nothing else was producing numbers. Try it. Maybe this is comparable to senko fishing. Some have a great amount of success with it, others have yet to experience why it's so special.

Man, That sure is a lot of gear you have. All I have to ask is: Don't you get paranoid about what to use once your on the water haha?

I use to fish with a guy that all he used were swivel snaps and all he fished with was Inlinespinners and little laker panfish type soft plastics w/ a bulldog spiltshot rig/setup . He sure did haul in some lunkers for my state with those two techniques. I find the size you use definetly affects the action of your bait. If you wanna fish a lot of lures quickly and have them close/available, its a good method to try. Find the smallest available size and work your way up. Theres nothing more frustrating than having to retie a knot when you haven't threaded it properly, line snaps or your changing lures a lot. If it's an issue of breakage: I'd worry more about being able to locate fish first and let alone, get them to bite.

For me, slow pitching a spinnerbait works pretty well. Especially, one in the chartruze/green with a red belly works pretty nice in willow leave blades. I either want a bait that can be worked quickly to trigger an reaction strike, that will create plenty of sound, flash and vibration to anger a fish guarding a bed. or I want a bait that can be presented to the fish long enough to where they'll have to bite. T-rigged worm with a 1/8 oz weight works pretty good or some form of Jig n Pig or Creature bait (Crawfish inpaticular) bumped or drag slowing across the bed works great. Try: A Rebel floating Craw.. A Classic but it's dynamite for shoreline beds. It's more effective if you fish it parallel of the shore from a corner angle.

Does anyone have any experiences with these brand of jigs?

I was thinking about stopping by a fin 'n' feather or scheels this weekend and was wondering what a great all-around crawfish (jig) trailer would be?

Hey all, I recently was looking to purchase some craw trailers for a jig n Pig combo and saw that the store currently didn't have anything remotely resembling them in stock. Though, I happen to glance over at the horny toads and thought "I wonder how well they would do on a jig suspending"? So, I was just wondering if anyone has tried a Jig/horny toad combination already or would offer some opinion in how this could possibly play out?

well, according to your theory I think you want to combine those to elements.. Solution: Some brand of Rattling jig w/ a 4in worm/grub trailer.

Well, I bought the 7:1:1 (BP Extreme) and thought it would be a great Jig reel. Considering I have never owned a faster reel such as this, was it a decent buy for the technique? I've read mixed opinions from other boards about the two ratios and would like to know what kind presentations do you guys like to use with higher speed reels?

Hi, I'm thinking of picking up a reel that caught my gaze at a Hardware store. It came in both a 6:3:1 and a 7:1:1 (Baitcaster). I own alot of reels with slower gear ratios, for more heavier bait presentations and was wondering which would be a better all around ratio out of the two?

Any opinions on the BCX models?

haha, I'm in the exact same boat your in. I'm currently fishing a pond that i'm really not familar with, in terms of the bass fishing and just can't seem to catch the big ones. All of them have been around a pound...Pound and half. Granted, It is a smaller pond with some depth to it. I agree with those above about getting to know the pond. It's just like Hunting a paticular property; you need to have an idea of what the deer movement is . You have to know what kind of terrain/cover, food sources, and if any hunting pressure is currently present on/around the property. Remember, that not all fish will react the same. Just like deer, they each have their own personality and one tactic in one pond, may not have the exact same impact in another. I'm beginning to wonder if the overall growth of the fish population in that paticular pond isn't "Stunted". I think thats currently the story in the pond i'm fishing in, Alot of the hybrid bluegill are dieing out, and therefore, theres limited forage for the bigger guys (If any). Remember, Big bass won't excert to much energy in chasing a bait. Most of your hookups with big bass come from "anger" or "reaction" strikes. Usually, if theres a higher population of smaller fish in a pond; it's the tactic that needs to change. Its just like rattling during the rut. DO you want it sound like two dinks are fighting and therefore, encourage another dink of a buck to come running in or do you want make it sound like two other "big boys" are going at. The chances of success are small, in terms of seeing numbers of bucks, but if you do attract one: YOu know he'll be a monster. Big bait=Big fish when in doubt, Go big..lol 1. Spinnerbait 2. 10+inch worm 3. JIg n PIg 4. Big Stick bait/soft plastic jerkbait 5.3/8 ounce, 1/2 ounce jitterbug etc..

Ditto... It really is true about "You get what you pay for" and fish equipment is definetly no exception. One of the the biggest mistakes I made when I first started fishing was letting these two factors affect what a bought: 1. Availability 2. Price... I was so impatient and not really wanting to take the time to gain the knowledge about the equipment I needed/was in the process in buying. It's really tempting to want to spend that 20 or so dollars you have or so on an outfit from walmart thats right in your home town, as opposed to waiting for a weekend trip to a Scheels or a bass pro shops 30-50 miles away. It's important to buy what you really want, instead of settling for something less due to those two factors outlined above. Reason being is, when you settle for less, you'll always be tempted to grumble or be disatisfied. BUt, when you buy what you've always wanted to begin with, theirs no reason to grumble. I understand your circumstances about being sixteen and having these other financial responsibilities. Funny thing is, with the economy being the way it is, many others that are twice your age are in the exact same predictament your in. I would offer these tips in saving up for what you want. 1. save change .... Its amazing how change adds up after awhile.. 2. Prioritize.. Buy whats truly important. Alot of times we waste the most money a convience stores. whether thats your daily Pop or that bag of chips you pickup during your gass fillup or the stop to Mcdonalds. The truth is it all adds up. 3. Make due with what you have... Look at your current fishing inventory and see if you presently own 1-2 cheeper outfits that could be given up and sell privately.. If you are like me in anyway, you have a tendancy to be a pack rat and fill your garage with a bunch of cheeper, convient outfits/equipment.. 4. Ask around for any odd jobs people need done. As someone stated "mowing lawns".. The money adds up and you get excercise in the process. 30-40 dollar rod on sale from cabelas/bass pro shops/scheels will go farther in quality, as opposed to things you would find in well known wholesale establishments.

Hey all, Just wondering what everyone's opinions are of this paticular reel? I've heard their not a bad quality reel for the price but just wondered what you guys think and if anyone has had any personal experience in using these reels? I was thinking of picking up one for a possible Crank'in' reel.

I would give it another week or two.. People generally don't like to be hounded, especially in regards to their own personal property. But it sounds like you did your best to make a good first impression. I would definetly avoid the bribe lolz Trust me, I know it can be a heartbreaker when you don't get permission. As one property owner told me "I don't know you from grass".

I purchased this reel a couple years ago, On account it was on sale. I think shimano discontinued production on this model and I've been having quite a bit of problems with it lately. So, Anyone familiar with this paticular model? The line release knob ,in paticular, is giving me quite a bit of problems.

THanks for all the replies!! But I'm just wondering what techniques I could get away with using this line, and which I couldn't?