islandbass

Reminded me of the dukes of hazard. 👍😎

The only time I start fresh with a is with a new reel. As a primarily non braid user, I always leave maybe 10 yards and fill up the rest with the new line. The purpose of leaving that much on the spool is because it is faster and easier to join lines with the Albright knot than to clear the spool, tie an arbor knot, yada x 3. Because most of my reels serve double duty for bass and salmon, I don’t do 50% backing and 50% new line. casting heavy spoons for salmon can take maybe 1/3 of my line, and if I do a few cut offs to retie, or losing a lot of line from a snag, then I increase the possibility of the joining interfering with my casting, or exposing the joining knot serve as a weak point. Yeah, I’m over zealous on this, but I don’t like to have loose ends or leave things to chance. That said, I have been trying out the braid to leader (30# braid with a 12-15# mono or Cx21 PLine ) this salmon season and am pleasantly surprised that the joining knot ain’t as weak a point as I initially thought, so I’m definitely trusting it more — and my second reason, may not be something to worry about. I was landing salmon after salmon, and even after checking the connection after every fish, the knot was good.

Welcome a greetings from the pacific NW!

@detroit1 lol. Just in case the young folk don’t get what you’re referring to: 🤣😝😂 metal and orchestral accompaniment can work one of my favorite Metallica songs.

Airdx - At its price and its value it is incredibly difficult to beat. I believe I have 2-piece medium and it has slain salmon in a jiffy. It is one of my trunk rods. I trusted @MNfisher‘s and others multiple recommendations and I can tell you that even if I did not have the benefit of holding it in hand which I prefer 9 times out of 10, this one is a winner and keeper sight unseen. Period. Sho’nuff, lol 😝

Yup. It’s one reason I won’t use braid exclusively as a bank angler. Sometimes we’re forced to break our line and sometimes is a lot. The thought of having that loose braided line that won’t break down in the water to tangle up with wild life makes me shudder.

@txchaser great to know. We can get pretty cold here in pacific nw. I remember wading once in a river in the dead winter on a super cold day that when I completed my retrieve and if I stared at the line, the water on it would crystallize in mere seconds. It was unreal. The ice would also build up on the guides too. But no problem. You dunk the rod into the river (not the reel) and the ice would fall off then you vigorously shake the excess water before it freezes on the guides. It was so cold even the ding dang steelhead and salmon said to themselves, “screw this. It’s even too cold for us. Let’s stay home today, and we ain’t telling islandbass either,” Lol 😂

I have not found a perfect solution for this. Every option I’ve tried has trade offs. I’ve tried: Finger gloves (like cycling or gym gloves) made from fleece or other similar material. Easier to tie knots but not that great because your fingers still get cold and you’ll eventually reach a point where your fingers are frozen Same as above but it’s a mitten that can fold back. Great for when you’re not fishing to keep your hands warm. But once you’re fishing, same issue as above. As for tying knots, I’ll take them off. It’s way faster than trying to tie knots with any glove on. This season, I am going to if those chemically activated hand warmer packets might help while inside my mittens and shoes. .

Unless you’re truly going to be fishing super deep or use this in the salt, a 4000 is overkill for bass fishing. not only that, but they generally be heavier too. 2500 and 3000 reels are usually the same size and differ in line capacity. If you need more, go 3k. If not 2.5k. Even then, the capacity difference beteeen the two really isn’t that much.

@Team9nineThanks!

That is awesome. Any plans to scan this to preserve it by digitizing it? 😎

Here are a few: 1) We self “respecting” bass anglers don’t use sissy spinning reels. Nope, no sirree bob. 😂 2) We are not supposed to use those old school tried and true lures like inline spinners and spoons to catch bass. Too simplistic, lol. Why, I would rather go home skunked fishing a 5” senko than catch a bass on said old school lures. 😂 3) We’re not supposed to use 2-piece rods. Well, I do out of necessity but this one isn’t as insisted upon as it was in the past.

Update: Replacing the original thicker spacer with a thinner spacer and removing the extra line (might have been a bit over spooled) did the trick to resolve the line lay issue. I believe the true culprit might have been having a little too much line on the spool. I removed a good portion of the extra line did the trick to eliminate the spooling issue. The pursuit iv worked like a champ yesterday evening. If I were playing Jax on mortal kombat, I would have achieved “flawless victory,“ lol. 😂 I am pleased with this addition. I still get a nasci anyway, because that’s what the bait monkey said.

I definitely appreciate the responses. I have been using this line on other 3000 reels this season with no issues such as this. These are a size 30 rapala real and a sienna. I am going to see if my first experience was an anomaly and I will be even more mindful of the slack, even though I am roughly 95% of the time. I guess I’ll need to step it up to 99.9% with this Penn Puursuit IV, lol. @WRB-2.0: I decided to do this before seeing your post this morning. I believe this to be an excellent suggestion and neat affirmation. 😇 Thanks to everyone!

Thanks for all the input, everyone! I had a chance to finally really dig into this case. Much closer inspection of the spool indicated slightly higher stacking at the bottom. Fortunately, the pursuit iv spool has marking on the top and bottom of the spool and there was a difference between then that helped to identify this. @bulldog1935: Despite me being someone who manually closes the bail, and always strives to start my retrieve with a taut line, this could very well be the culprit. I was fishing with a heavy metal spoon where the technique is to jig, pickup the slack, yada, yada, lather, rinse and repeat. Perhaps my technique was off, though no different from my shimano (symetre and lowly sienna) or rapala reels that never had this issue. I suppose with the Penn, I’ll need to be more mindful. per Penn instructions, the solution is to remove the default washer and replace it with one of the additional washers. The original is much thicker. The line lay is definitely more even so I will be more mindful of the slack during the retrieve. 😇😎

@Big Hands thanks. I did and one washer is in place. Is it okay for the reel to not use a spacer?

I recently added a Penn Pursuit IV 3000 to my line up and I am a Shimano guy primarily (and one Daiwa) when it comes to reels. I bought this Penn because of the decent reviews and its saltwater worthiness which is what I needed this reel. My gut and heart told me to get the Nasci and be done with it (it’s saltwater worthy) but I was trying to be economical and weighing the fact that only fish the salt in odd years (for just a few months) and didn’t think I needed to spend a $100 for a reel. I took it for a test run in the salt and noticed several times that during the retrieve, a couple of retrieving loops actually laid off the spool (below it) and I was a bit shocked. I think I understand the basics of making adjustments for uneven line lay, but what if it’s laying line under the spool a couple of wraps? This suggests to me that perhaps the spool is traveling too far down or maybe staying at the bottom of the cycle a little too long. Outside of this observance, the line lay appears to be fairly even so I am a little perplexed. Has anyone ever experienced this and did adding a shim/washer resolve the issue? I’m not blaming the reel yet, lol. The line on the spool is 12# PLine c21, which is well in the range for a 3000 sized reel. This line has been incredible for me for both bass and salmon fishing this year. Other thoughts about the Pursuit IV Pros Excellent price $56 Comes with a power handle Fairly smooth for its price point Saltwater worthy Cons A bit on the heavy side It is not a Shimano (🤣😇😂) All advice and input is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The float test would be a good indicator for sure. That said, what about if it’s an fc coated mono or some other mix with fc. I reckon it would indicate fc is in the line but won’t necessarily confirm it is pure fc. I know , it’s not even winter yet, but my mind is always on, lol. 😂

Thanks, guys @bulldog1935 and @FloridaFishinFool much appreciated advice. I will develop a plan based on it. @MN Fisher I have considered replacement too. I will try to restore them first and if that doesn’t work I will try to replace them. This very well might be the excuse I need to make or in this case remake a rod.

Hello, ladies and gents, the subject line says it all. I noticed on two of my rods that there was either oxidation or rust forming on some of the guides. One of them is my trusty 6’6” Shimano 2-piece compre that is probably close to 18 years old. If I’m not mistaken the guides are either Fuji aluminum oxide guides, hard loy or the model just above that, alconites I think. The oxidation (kind of that whitish/green minerally-looking stuff) is occurring on some of the guide bodies. The inserts appear to be fine. It seems this oxidation has occurred where the paint or color coating of the guides has worn off over time. I get it, the rod is old but I’d like to save it. I thought of using a light grit sand paper but hoping there might be a chemical solution as an alternative. Lastly, is there some type of clear coat or rustoleum product I could apply to the guides to inhibit future corrosion or oxidation. I don’t have any pictures yet but can add some if requested. Thanks.

Glad you made back home safely.

Hello from WA state. And yes, we have bass here, 😂

I would only drop down to 6 for DS and in the cover allows it. I have noticed more strikes the thinner I go in general but that has a limit. If the fish were active, then your line diameter probably does not come into play. my general rule is to use the lightest line I can get away with. sometimes the cover is tough and lightest I can get away with is 15#. sometimes I’m cranking open water and I could use 6 or 8# but many times such lines can be so limp that the hooks would occasionally get caught up the line and waste casts. So the lightest line for practical purpose might be 10#. It’s stiffer and less susceptible to that. and in extreme and tough conditions, where even 6# mono isn’t cutting it on the DS, I might pull out 6# invisx, lol. let your conditions and lure types influence the pound test you use. speaking about mono here. I love braid for its traits but its opacity for me is almost a show stopper. Love fc line for my finesse, but i dont care to spend that much because as a shore angler who dares to drop shot in rip rap, mono is just more cost effective 😎🤣

Excellent report fellow pacific northwester! Glad you had a productive day. 😎

Gives new meaning to the term killer crocs. Maybe there is a matching Batman pair? Cool to look at. No thanks to wear them except maybe in Halloween.