islandbass

More details would be helpful like the line you’re using, type of reel as in Daiwa, Shimano, Lews, etc. Reason being so that any advice we give could be fined tuned and more precise. If I tell you that the centrifugal brakes are what you need to adjust as my best guess, it’s of no use to you if your reel has magnetic brakes. I’d also recommend using at least a 1/2 oz weight as opposed to a lure. Certain lure types, because of their aerodynamics, are not ideal for the newbie. You’ll have enough worry about in finding where the error lies without this being a factor. Therefore: 1) use a 1/2 oz weight like a bass casting weight 2) use mono of at least 10# strength and NO BRAID.

Hold on to your seat. Them thar salmonids put up a fight like a big bass but with more stamina and therefore a longer fight. ?

That’s awesome. Love that dedication. A few years ago, a forecast for the day I planned to go fishing was going to be in the upper 20s lower 30s. I was shocked to see the a layer of ice on the pond upon arrival because lakes freezing over isn’t too common in the Seattle area. Instead of tucking my tail and heading home, I found large rocks sky high attempting to pop holes in the ice. Luckily, I was successful. It was actually a lot of fun skipping my lure on the ice and getting it to fall into the holes. I didn’t catch anything that die, but the cold day in h-e- double hockey sticks didn’t stop me. @Ksam1234: I hear you and know that sad moment well. The pacific nw is already in the cold and wet mode of weather. It encourages me to target other species than bass that thrive in this weather. steelhead and salmon might be close by as JF suggested. Hopefully it’s a possibility for you.

Are the rods comparable application wise? If not, I'd get the rod that fills a needed niche in my arsenal. Tough to decide if the comparison is apples and oranges. If these rods are in the same class, you might want to factor the guides used. I am not snooty but I have a difficult time buying a rod with less than aluminum oxide guides. Or, whichever feels best in your hand.

Thanks for the review. I look forward to seeing his response on the reason why the guide spacing isn't the same or at least reasonably close. Perplexing.

They are great lines. I've used and love both. ChrisD is right on value.

I think I hear your bait monkey playing the Carpenter's song on his MP3 players and Bose speaker, "We've Only Just Begun..." Nice acquisition!

All line will twist. A quality swivel helps but there will always be line twist to some degree using lures in this class. It is what it is but I still like to use them. If the case is as Scott suspects, the clevis is usually the culprit. No problem, clevis' are cheap and inlines are very easy to make. When I make them, I incorporate a good barrel swivel in the build when possible.

Absolutely! This is a strange coincidence, but I was talking to a lady (senior) who knits and crochets. I was going to ask her if she could teach me how to knit or crochet covers for my reels. She then told me that she LOVES to fish. Her eyes light up with a twinkle as a smile formed on her face. She told me it might not be a good idea because yarn has lint and that it could get into the workings of the reel. Right!, Duh, Ib! Anyway she saw my rod quiver and said, I kid you not, "Nice contraption. Very ingenius." I mentioned how I use it transporting my rods upon which she replied as a sweet, elderly lady would, "Oh, child, I just use swimming noodles. They're longer, thicker and will provide more protection." Small world and this conversation just happened on Tuesday this week and I had already forgotten about her brilliant suggestion. I guess I'm getting old, lol. Lord willing, I hope to take her fishing with other seniors next spring. Bass fishing from the shore is pretty much "over" in the pacific northwest outside of die hards like me, lol.

I am very particular (anal,lol) when transporting my rods in the such that I want absolutely zero possibility of the rod tips vibrating and hitting each other during transport. I tried the binding the rods together but doing so is not perfect because the rods can still clash and can be bent or curved which I don't want either. So my nerdy self gets to thinking and I resolved this issue using a length of piping insulation appropriate to the rod. I use it to cover the rod from the tip on down. The butt of the rod doesn't need the pipe insulation. Basically, perhaps the top third of the rod. Piping insulation is cheap and a wise investment. This won't however, protect you against clumsily placing rods in your car. Just be careful enough when putting your rods into the car to not hit the tip on anything.

If this is newbie work, you've got a promising future hobby. They look good. ?

I started my daughter with my curado when she was 6. She will be 18 this month. Once properly set, they are practically idiot proof. And the primary reason kids that age might backlash is when their lure hits the water or whatever else, before their thumb can stop the spool from spinning. I am willing to bet that is the golden nugget of information your son will need to get started. Also, there is no such thing as a reel that won't backlash as a result of user error so expect them. Unless this will be a bait monkey "excuse" (LOL) to add a new reel to your arsenal, I think you should let him use one of your reels for now. However, if you want to buy him one, make sure it's at a level of capability that you would also use. I see no point in starting him off on something "lesser" than what you would use. He'll outgrow it and you'll be stuck with it. Just load it up with the appropriate mono and he'll be good to go. Or use the lp in your arsenal with the smallest and lowest profile to better suit his hands. One last thing. I "invented" (out of necessity) what I call a "rod leash" for the event that they make a cast and accidentally drop or let go of the rod they are using. It will save their rod and reel from falling into the drink and you the hassle of trying to recover it if it's recoverable at all. I can't post my photobucket images anymore, but I could show you how to set one up if you're interested.

Right on , and so true. This is what I was referring to but couldn't put it as eloquently as this when I wrote about having a "change" to the system/equation (my fishing equation, lol) of using the rod, line and bait. We are aware or at least be conscious of the input we impart to that "system/equation" and input into that doesn't come from us. If anything changes this "system" that didn't come from us, then two possibilities exist: 1) It's a snag, we got it stuck on something 2) The fish has it - SET THE HOOK! With enough fishing experience we will get to where have a better ability to discern that. Sometimes we might be wrong but hook sets are free. In addition to bass fishing, I also gained experience with this by drift fishing with corkies for salmon. Imagined a carolina rig floating lure that bounces periodically along the bottom. You'd feel a tick as the weight touches the bottom periodically, say every 2-3 seconds as the weight is carried by the river's current. It's like this: Tick (weight touching the river bed, then is moved along by the current), Tick (every few seconds), Tick... Tick... Tick... Tick... Tick... Nothing... Dude, wake up! The fish took it! Reel up the slack and set the hook, lol! The change was the take. You can even develop enough wherewithal to sense a "snag" when the weight might get stuck in the rocks so you "pop" the rod to free it before the force of the current lodges your weight further.

That is actually an excellent question to pose. And as r83 noted, I agree it is very subjective. In addition, with regard to sensitivity, it might even be categorized. Sensitivity with regard to: 1) Bottom Contact - I believe that it is through experience that we gain the knowledge of being able to paint a picture in our minds of what our lure is telling us through contact with the bottom. For example, a jig head dragged over rocks feels different that it would through a muddy/clay bottom, or through grass. Soon we develop the skills to give us a decent image. 2) The Strike or Taking of the lure - Sometimes it's nibbling which might mean a wary bass or a blue gill or a bass no bigger than my thumb acting like a hawg trying to grab my senko. Sometimes it's so positive and violent you know you have a fish on. Sometimes it's subtle. Something gets mushy or goes "dead". I call this basically, a change in the "system". 3) Line choice - Some lines transmit feedback to us better than others. With that said, however, I have learned that there has to be a certain amount of tension in order to receive the transmitted information. I don't care how sensitive your rod or line is, if there is too much slack, you are NOT going to feel a bite. I've tested this myself. With those two listed above, I think there are other factors that others will chime in on. Then we have our hands. The sensors in our hands are better than the most sensitive rods out there, thanks to the Man upstairs. If you've ever fished with a hand line (a blast in its own right), you know what I am talking. However, the drawbacks are there - limited line control, no extra leverage that a rod provides, etc. so I am not giving up my rods any time soon. With regard to rods, I think our hands play a role too in our perception of sensitivity a rod has. Even an ugly stik feels sensitive in my hands, lol. I'm not kidding. I do have one rod in my arsenal, which was the worst rod I have. I cannot feel much with this rod, even with braid. Even more disappointing that it was a rod from Rapala. When an ugly stik beats a rod in the sensitivity department, I have a problem. I still use it for certain applications like float fishing and squid fishing. Both of these do not require sensitivity. It also serves as a guest rod if I don't like somebody, lol. Just kidding about that.

Thanks for the comments, guys! I think the acquisition monkey won here. I'll be picking up a couple of spools, probably 6# (finesse) for a spinning reel and 10 or 12# (to battle some salmon this fall) for a casting reel. Probably money better spent here than on a dumb latte, lol.

I coasted through my Walmart's fishing area, and one line in particular really caught my attention. P-line's c21 line. After reading the box, it appears to be a blend of two nylons. I have used both cx and cxx in the past and have been pleased with both. What caught my attention was that it was being sold a $4.74 for 300 yds.,which is cheaper than my good old trilene xl and that is cheap ($6.44 for 300 yds. ) If you have used c21, please share your thoughts and experiences whether good or bad. It seems like a smashing deal for that price but the adage you get what you pay for lingers in my mind. I also don't "need" and line or other tackle at this time either, so it could be the "acquisition monkey" at work here. A close cousin to the bait monkey who is known to make anglers buy or acquire tackle that is not needed or warranted. With that said, I'm not sure if any of you have dealt with this monkey.

Is there any way you can make an appointment with the owner? Get to know him or her or them and let them know your situation? If I were the land owner, I would consider allowing someone to fish with a case like yours. Even make some kind of formal arrangement with you even if just verbal like you'd keep the area clean and how many people can come with you and only when you are present, etc. Hope you get that opportunity to have that conversation. Unless they've been burned badly in the past, I'd think you have a decent shot.

Bam. Well said. Unless your popper is made from balsa, through wire is not really needed. There are places you can buy screw eyes with a long enough thread to make this work (bass or lesser fish only). One of the best things about making a popper is there is practically no need to balance them as crank bait requires. The trebles will ensure the bait will sit upright, at least in the ones I build. I have used basswood in the past but would love to build a few out of balsa if ever I build more. If you are going to use through wire again, I think it would be easier to cut the popper in half like you would a crankbait. This will give you the most flexibility to ensure that the wire you form fits the way it should. The lures I made below (I admit that I can't paint worth a darn, lol) are bass wood. Oh yeah. Don't worry about whether your popper isn't slightly tail down (ie, don't add lead to the tail yet) until you have all the hard ware installed. Depending on the size of the rear treble, and if it is dressed or not, these two things combined might be sufficient alone to make the tail sit lower than the head. If you add weight to the tail beforehand, it might be too much weight. I also made the tails. I apologize for the poor image. I think it was taken with sub 5 megapixels was tops, lol. I made the tails using white feathers. The firetiger popper has that flash or flashabou material.

I can't recall who, but someone here posted what the did to carry their rods by way of a pvc tube on top of their SUV and even incorporated a way to secure (lock up) the rods inside the tube. With a little creativity and ingenuity, I believe it could be modified/adapted to suit your truck. I think his carrier was made to accommodate rod with reel attached. If I ever get around to it, I'd use his awesome design as a foundation to start with and modify it to suit my needs, i.e., fit it to the top of a car and store the rods inside in protected from each other to eliminate damage for the banging around they're bound to do inside during transport. I am overly protective of my true bass rods in that I won't tolerate even the smallest amount or chance of them vibrating and banging up on each other during transport. And will never leave them in my car exposed to view for even a microsecond. The price I pay for that is that my 2-piece trunk rods get the action 90% of the time and my "true" bass rods might see action on the weekend. I built what I call a rod quiver that allows me to transport my bass rods in my car with the back seat down. The quiver does a fair job of keeping the rods isolated and it also allows me to carry 3 rods in one hand. I think of my quiver as a crude solution to carry my one piece rods around the lake and in the car. Hopefully our fellow angler who made the rod carrying apparatus for the top of his SUV will chime in. If I find the thread, I'll add the link here.

Yes, I probably got it mixed up but I knew it was one way or the other. Thx.

Generally speaking, the thinner the line, the farther you can cast. Bird's nests won't be your issue you can make a birds nest with any line. However, and generally too for braid, is that the thinner it is, the greater a chance it has on a baitcast reel to "dig" into itself. That is the "problem" for anglers who don't know how to manage their braid at the thinner end of the spectrum so that the easiest and most convenient thing is to use a braid with a thicker diameter. Doing so lessens the occurrence of this "line dig." With that said, different anglers will have more or less ability to minimize this line dig. Some can use 20# braid which has an equivalent diameter to 6# mono with no issues of line dig, while other anglers cannot. Some anglers have line dig problems with 30# braid, which has an 8# mono equivalent diameter and others won't. Because it is a case by case basis for anglers, only you will know after trying this out for yourself. Personally, I can use 30# braid with virtually no line dig issues. This line dig, as far as I know is not an issue on spinning reels, or at least it has not been for me. If you normally use 8-12# mono, then it would seem fitting to use 30-40# braid. Another "downside" to braid for me and it is not really a bad thing is, 30# test can be very difficult to break if I have to and if you're not careful, braid can cut through your skin like a hot knife through butter.

Indeed. You need to figure out when the overrun is occurring to better fine tune making the necessary adjustment(s) to solve it. For example if it happens: Early, like right after the cast, then adjust the ___________ Later, like at the end of the cast, then adjust the __________ Regrettably, I forgot so hopefully one of our fellow anglers here can fill in the blanks. As a best guess, I'd guess Early - Adjust Cast Control Knob Later - Adjust Centrifugal Brakes It might very well be the reverse. However, other things like line and angler mechanics can be culprits. For example, if your reel was working fine and adjusted properly for some time and you didn't change the lure, but an errant overrun happens, I would be inclined to think my cast was faulty, as in not properly loading the rod properly and yet "flicking" my wrists forward going ahead to make the cast. That tends to add too much energy into the casting equation and an overrun can result. It translates most of the time to user error, lol. The biggest culprit for me to date has been a fuji hook keeper that is in a place that it could catch the line during the cast. It's made me remove it during fishing. On one fishing trip, the hook keeper was the culprit for causing me to birds nest my Curado 201 DHSV AND Cardiff 301A. My error was not removing it after it first happened.

All mono will do that. It is an inherent trait of nylon monofilament. With that said, other than being unsightly, it won't affect performance in general. As already mentioned,there are products others (I don't personally use them) that address nylons memory "issue".

Are You Better with Successfully Setting the Hook... When the fish is: 1) in plain sight or 2) unseen For me, I think I do better setting the hook when I don't see the fish. I think I react too quickly in anticipation of the fish taking the lure. The price I usually pay in yanking lure out of their mouths too soon. This was always on my back burner as a thought to ponder and brought to light after watching the interview with Hank who brought up sight fishing. I'm not too good at sight fishing and hats off to those who have the discipline to remain calm and ensure a successful hook set. Or, perhaps you're 50/50.

Well said. Can't disagree with this. Matter of fact, my UL is a 7' rod mated to my Rapala 6sxi 2000 reel. It's a beautiful thing.