gobig

I am not sure how it will work with bass but I know it can make a difference with trout and salmon. I ran Identical rigs with flashers other than one being UV, enough times last year to see that there is a difference. I had days where they would only hit the UV. I am not sure if it was coincidence but I noticed the biggest difference when the salmon were eating krill as apposed to bait fish.

Your rod may be to light to drive the hook you are using.

Depends on the bait. Some I throw on 12# and others up to 20#.

I enjoyed that

Two pound bass will have no trouble eating it. I catch quite a few in the two pound class every year on baits 8 inches and larger.

Its one of my most productive swimbaits.

4.6# Smallmouth on a spro phat fly.

split rings

The idea that you are only fishing for one bite is BS. I have had several 20+ fish days and I am not talking about using hollow bodies. In the same token fishing swimbaits only and nothing else is one dimensional and this is why guys go 2 months with out a bite. There is a time and a place for everything and you have know when not to throw swimbaits. Some lakes just are not good swimbait lakes and with time you will start to figure it out. Just don't assume its a bad lake. Swimbaits are harder to fish than any other bait I have tried. They are a straight up challenge but the lessons are golden and apply to all techniques. Learning to use swimbaits will dramatically improve your fishing skill sets. It takes time on the water and a good pair of sun glasses to get good with them. You will need to learn to read the fish. Followers will tell you a lot. Like Tom mentioned you can come back to fish but you can also reposition them. Sometimes its timing. Consider your angles they are key. Bass like to pin there prey and the wrong angles can make for long days. The right angle can put 30lbs in the boat in a few casts. Most guys buy a big bait and throw it a few times put it down and claim they can't get bit on them or that they don't work in there area. I prefer it this way.

Hooks and split rings will change the sink rate. Get some suspend dots and play with them. To answer your question yes you can get that bait down.

I'm not trying to be funny. I traded in my hds 7 for a magic 8 ball and I haven't looked back.

You will have to open that bad boy up and shave lead off the harness. Maybe add some foam or flotation balls. I think you would Do better knocking off a ms slammer or similar bait. All you need is a little enginuity wood dowl, table leg or something along those lines. Some hardware a rattle can and your in business.

It's beyond confidence. It's intuition. It's that split second you truly communicate with nature on a higher level.

The casitac would not be my first choice. Thre are some pretty good baits in that size range. Some have been mentioned. I would add the Rago bvd, osprey and mission fish.

I don't buy expensive baits because of the hardware. That gets changed out 90 percent of the time. You can't compare an xrap to a LC pointer. Two totally different baits. How ever both are good and have their time and place. The biggest thing with higher dollar baits is the consistentcy. They are more likely to perform the same way. For instance if you bought ten s-waivers there not going to have the same sink rates or action. If you bought ten deps slide swimmers with the same tune they will be extremely close. This is the reason you see guys with a favorite bait that seems to out perform others of the same make and model.

There are so many different options it's almost endless. The key is selecting the right baits to come through the snags. When you say snags what do you mean? Rocks? Weeds? Timber? You get the point. The reason I ask is because different baits have different capabilities. You need to break down the water column top, middle and bottom. Usually the top is not as much of an issue unless your fishing grass mats. I know when I first started bass fishing I strayed away from areas where I would snag up. Now I don't think twice. It's all about proper tool selection.

Matuka gave a killer suggestion for targeting spots that are deep like that. The other things I would try are a dropshot, an ice jig, spoons, heavy arig, lipless bait ripped off the bottom or a swimbait. Did you look for shallow fish. Those are perfect temps for a float n fly.

I am one of the diesel guys. I have an obs powerstroke and I average between 17 and 21 mpg. Towing with a smaller rig is fine if your not dealing with 8% plus grades or have big rims and tires.

I posted in your other thread. If its clicking but not moving up or down its most likely the solenoid.

Sounds like a solenoid. There should be two of them one for up and one for down. Take a screwdriver and touch the two big terminals together and the motor should trim up or down. Its an easy fix. If this is the problem I would replace both. When one fails the other seems to follow. Should look something like this. https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=tilt+trim+solenoid

I have to say a swimbait. There are just way to many heart pounding experiences.

I hope this one stays quiet for a while. But I will give you a hint. Kokanee

The delta kicked out lots of big bags last year. It should be in the top ten for sure.

Well Clearlake is starting to kick off a little faster than I expected. ABA results just came out for yesterday. Just under 36 lbs won it and the top 8 all had bags over 30.

If your going multiple days I would go with Matt Allen and John Pearl. Both are really good at Clearlake. You will learn a ton. March should be huge bags. Get ready to average 5-7lbs a fish.