Team9nine

1982 Advertisement...also note the Mann's Hackleback Craw in the ad, same as @whitwolf posted...along with how young Johnny looked

Yeah, but it's a trade-off for risking a line catch on a cast (on the knot or the guide) and launching your baits into orbit, or snapping off fish close to the boat on final lunges for the same reason. A decision each has to make for themselves. So far I've landed numerous fish to 50# on traditional or even light outfits without having a single connection knot failure using the shorter (4'-6') leaders, so I continue to roll with it.

Yep - 4'-6' to start, as long as it doesn't get past the first guide (toward the reel) when fully wound in (and especially not inside/onto the reel). -T9

Just an opinion, but spinnerbaits aren't that large. Palomar (or double Palomar if you prefer since it's braid) will eliminate the slipping. The only direct tie knot I use on everything from crappie jigs to A-rigs. -T9

OMG, I could go on forever with this topic Here's a few, with a backstory. When In-Fisherman magazine first began in 1975, they stated that they would not accept any advertising, because they were not going to be beholden to any advertisers. Of course, that stance lasted about 1 year, as in the May 1976 issue, they had "ads" for 5 different companies, the first time they ever accepted and published them. However, they didn't refer to them as ads/advertisers, but instead, “co-op patrons,” companies who would finance their projects as “Friends of Sportfishing Research.” Here's the 5 ads:

Another Stradic vote, and I'm a bit partial toward the CI4 models and the 2500 size... -T9

Another vote for the Mepps Black Fury, especially the chartreuse version, but their Musky Killer will also land some seriously nice bass at certain times of the year, or on certain waters.

I will try chartreuse in good stained water (not muddy) at times, but chartreuse (or chartreuse and white) is a surprisingly good color in clear water, especially around vegetation, but under very low light conditions (crack of dawn, etc.). It's also seems to be a good color in moving water (rivers, etc.). As best I've been able to understand, it actually appears brighter to a bass than white, so I think that's the reason (or at least part of it). -T9

I had input on the design

Cavitrons are solid, but my favorite production buzzer is the Accent Game Changer - but I'm a little biased...white, black and chartreuse are pretty much all the colors I've ever needed to own in any model buzzbait.

As you can probably tell, it will come down to personal preference when all is said and done. Personally, I'm straight fluorocarbon for cranking...and most everything else. I like the added feel (vs. mono/copoly) and abrasion resistance. Running depth is no different than mono or copoly of the same diameter. -T9

So if I did the same thing to my cranks that already have red hooks on them, would it confuse the hell out of the fish?

This ^^ with one little tweak

I'm in @Jigfishn10 corner on this one. I've long argued that the focus on blade shape/style relative to "thump" or vibration or even flash is misleading, but to instead focus on blade style relative to speed. Is a Colorado blade better in muddy water because it puts out a better thump, or because it slows the bait down enough to give the fish enough time to react? I'd argue the latter is much overlooked, but more important.

Those are pretty much all there are. Lots of times you'll get variations in algal succession that makes it seem like a lake is turning over when it really isn't, or shallow bays and coves that aren't stratified that mix later into the spring. There is a category of shallow lakes called polymictic that rarely, or only briefly, stratify, that mix more or less constantly, but they tend to be located +/- 22.5 deg. north and south of the equator.

Yes, I must have one of these tickling sprinklers - NOT! YouTube makes everything look cool. Rebel did make something similar in hard plastic that floated called the Buzz Frog @whitwolf

Most of the lakes across the northern half of the country are classified as 'dimictic,' meaning they turn over twice a year, once in spring and again in fall. The spring turnover is more a science technicality than a fishable event like the fall turnover. With surface ice and temps in the depths gradually increasing to 39 degrees in the deepest water, while not truly stratified, the waters also aren't thermally uniform. Shortly after iceout, when surface temps rise (usually quickly) to 39 deg., they are, and all water at all depths can mix freely making for homogeneous temps, pH levels and oxygen content. ....and I prefer my turnovers to be cherry ?

KVD L&L? No idea if it works - have never had the need to use it. But I am impressed with the resurrection and quoting of an 8 year old post Nicely done guys

If you're entertaining the question, then "enough" is probably within sight

I never have to go any larger than this for any bank trip

Pretty much this ^^ Zoom and NetBait finesse worms, or Z-Man finesse WormZ are all I carry for jig worming. -T9

Not disagreeing that there is a place and time for mono. Been a staple for many decades now. Still fine in many instances. Let's just stop blaming/bashing fluoro every time someone has a casting issue or any other malady. I was on the water yesterday casting Shad Raps on a Curado with 8# fluoro, and pitching jigs with 25# - if it doesn't work for you, no harm, no foul - use some other line...but the real issue isn't the fluoro -T9

It's not the line, it's the user

First, you're not marking structure, you're marking cover ("breaks") - yes, it matters to some of us My #1 rule is "get a waypoint on it" whether you fish it then or not. Beyond that, I have no problem dropping a marker close to the object the first time I find it. I want to know right where I need to throw to hit the object. Having a marker makes this simple. After locating the object, I tend to slowly circle around it while casting. This helps give you above water linesights, as well as finding the best angle for future visits. Catching fish right away is a bonus, but not near as important to me. Being able to pull up correctly and reasonably expect to catch fish every time after is.

I go at least a year, and often two. By the third year, even the good stuff usually needs changing for one reason or another.