Team9nine

Nope - never had a use for it. Keep fresh line spooled as needed, and take out line twist when necessary - always good to go. -T9

Yep, Z-Man Trigger Hook. The original version was made by Lew's way back in the day and called a "Speed Sticker." Ebay has a bunch, and I saw a large assorted package at Outlet Bait & Tackle. -T9

+5 -- Did the thumbnail thing for 25 years - Texas Tackle Split Ring Pliers are better LOL.... Just wish it hadn't taken me so long to find out - too stubborn, I guess. -T9

Yep - Very strong - forged - very good "spring" so they rarely, if ever, deform when attaching to baits - plus the regular "bass" sizes come in black chrome which is nice. Seems like most of the recognized swimbait guys swear by them, so that is a pretty strong testament. Others might work fine, but in this case, all the positive comments and recommendations for them outweigh taking a chance on an off-brand. -T9

Another you might look at is either the Davis X-Wire or the Davis Fatboy Spinnerbaits from Coose Tackle (find them online). Not exactly the same as the one you pictured, but pretty darn close, from the same area, and very top notch... -T9

Water bottles are good, as is having some type of conditioner which will help offset any chemical impurities, but the bit about chlorine levels in bags of ice is a bit overblown, IMO. I've never heard or seen of a livewell full of dead bass in 25 years of tourney fishing from a bag of ice in these parts, and the Maryland DNR actually did a test on local suppliers many years back and found no issue with bulk produced store bought ice: http://dnr2.maryland.gov/fisheries/Documents/IsChlorineinLiveWellsaProblemdoc.pdf -T9

Owner Hyper Wire - Size 2, 3 or 4 (smaller to larger) for most baits. #3 is a pretty good all-around size. -T9

A couple kayak clubs in the area. The first is a central IN club, the second a larger state organization. Both fish some tourneys: Central Indiana Kayak Anglers http://www.indyyaks.com/ cikayakanglers@gmail.com http://indianayakfish.com/ https://www.facebook.com/IndianaKayakAnglers As for regular bass clubs, there are several Westside clubs, most all of which are usually looking for non-boaters. Here are a few to look into: Speedway 500 B/M Hendricks Co. B/M Raccoon Bass Anglers P.O. Pluggers Cataract Hawg Stalkers -T9

Yes there is, but in your case, it will be a noticeable difference in the lack of feel going back to mono. On the other hand, stretch is a wash, IMO. Wouldn't worry about that too much. Whatever works best for you is what you need to be using though.... -T9

^^^ That's where I'm at, too...but whatever works for you. -T9

Red - just another braid color. It discolors also, turning more whitish with red tinting than anything after a lot of use. It also seems to leave much more residue as the red wears off compared to other colors. Very obvious around my rod guides and such. I personally think it is very difficult to see, so I wouldn't recommend it for a line watching technique. If you want to try something in place of the more traditional green, then red might be a good option. If you want something you can easily see, go yellow/chartreuse or white. -T9

This ^^ - If you fish long enough with enough different jig heads, you'll see the difference. Not that you can't use others, but mushrooms definitely seem to be best overall, at least for the conditions the technique was originally created for. Technically, no. Depends on how close you want to stick to the "original." Elaztech is the material in Z-Man baits, as well as the Strike King Ochos. Other baits will fish and react differently being made of a different type plastic material, as well as differences in salt content or addition. They will all catch fish, but the best thing for anyone who wants to try Ned Rigging is to first begin with the exact original setup, Elaztech plastics and light (1/32, 1/16, 3/32) Gopher mushroom head jigs. Once you've fished those and learned how they react and why they work, then you can start playing with all the different component alterations that are possible. But until you have fished with the baseline rig, you'll have no basis for comparison...only another similar version that you won't have any idea why it's different than Ned's original setup. -T9

Welcome to the congregation That little excerpt above is about the best piece of advice I would give anyone first wanting to try the rig out. As for fishing it in weedy areas, go to a 1/32 oz. head with some of the Elaztech plastics that will help float the bait over and around weeds without bogging in them. Could also go to one of the single strand guarded jigheads to help. Works good around regular weeds, but not much help in moss/algae. Takes a bit more patience, but works. -T9

You didn't dream it. Steve Reideler of Lewisville, Texas, who provides lots of reports to Ned's Finesse News Network, was regularly using a bobber-and-scented LeechZ rig and other Z-Man baits to catch several bass these past couple winter/springs. He frequently uses a rattling bobber to make some extra noise as a possible attractor. Below is a brief mention from one such report: -T9

Like any bait, you can fish it however you like. I believe Ned now has 6 specific "named" retrieves he performs with his baits, most all of which I believe he describes in the following video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqGTzPt6TIQ. I have kept my retrieves to versions of the original 5, with the "swim and glide" my most utilized retrieve. -T9

On weight, 1/16-oz is probably the most used "all-around" weight if you wanted to just pick one...and 18" - 3' water clarity won't be any issue. -T9

Have it spooled on nearly every baitcaster I own, plus used regularly as a leader for my spinning outfits with braid. Great stuff. Increased sensitivity and abrasion resistance are the two main reasons for me using it. -T9

I'm still sticking by my answer from your original post... -T9

Grey reel with the green line looks about perfect to me...where I always fill all mine to, but many consider it "overfilled." As one or two others have stated, I'd start there, and if you can't handle it, strip a little more off and try again. The other reel, I'd just as soon not fish with if I didn't have to nowhere near enough line for me. -T9

Biggest limits: Largemouth - early to mid pre-spawn (45-55 deg. H2O) Smallmouth - very early winter (<50 deg. H2O) Biggest numbers: Largemouth - late post-spawn/early summer Smallmouth - late pre-spawn -T9

Similar, but different.

This ^^ Tried the 3.8s very early on and they were just too slow. That said, I love my 4.4 - 4.7 ratio reels I've had over the years for deep cranking. Honestly never checked IPT on any of them though. -T9

The 2-oz resolution is exactly why I bought the IN12. In Indiana, I'm never going to catch a bass or walleye bigger than 12 pounds anyway. They do make an IN10 version, but it was only accurate to 4 oz., so that was another reason why I went with the IN12 instead. -T9

No doubt that is a Chatillon IN Series brass scale...and yes, they are IGFA certifiable and very accurate. A couple points need to be clarified though from the video. The scale they are using is either the IN30 (lb.) or the IN50 (lb.) scale. Both have accuracy to 1/2 pound (8 oz.). There are no hidden or missing hashmarks. Makes sense since they are up north and probably use it for weighing pike, musky or giant walleye, too. They would need the larger capacity. From the video, and they give a pretty good, level close-up shot of the weight, they appear to have read the scale wrong. The correct weight should be 8.5 pounds, not "over 9." The proper way to read these scales is to use the very top edge/lip of the brass "indicator" as the actual weight/reading. If the indicator meets or exceeds a hash mark, but doesn't make the next mark, then the lowest mark met or exceeded is the proper weight. In this case. It appears to pretty much nail the 8.5 lb. mark almost exactly. So my opinion based on the video is that this was "only" an 8.5 lb smallie - still one h*!! of a fish. I personally use a certified Chatillon IN-12 model which is accurate to within 2 oz. There is one model between that model and the one they are using, which is an IN15, accurate to within a quarter pound (4 oz). They also make smaller panfish models (IN2, IN4, IN6) accurate to within 1 ounce. -T9

It's going to be nearly a wash. I use them both (mono and fluoro) as leaders. The reason is because the "feel" advantage you get with fluorocarbon is due largely to density, and you're sticking 50-100 feet of low density braid between you (your rod) and your leader. The sensitivity of braid comes from its near lack of stretch. So you are basically dealing with two different lines and line properties, and the joint (connection between the two) becomes a disconnect. Mono has no sensitivity advantages over either of the other two. The main advantages, as has already been stated, are abrasion resistance, transparency, and density for extra weight (with a fluoro leader) to offset the braid. There are a couple other things like line savings (use less braid due to retying) and unsnagging benefits. -T9