Team9nine

That statement still seems like a bit of an overgeneralization to me. Tying density only to "sink rate" doesn't tell the whole story. The same could be said of claiming "higher strength" and "more abrasion resistance." For example, making certain that exactly similar diameters are being compared, and that wet samples are being used/tested, I think you'd find at worst a negligible difference in most nylon and fluoro samples in these two categories, and in many cases, especially abrasion resistance, better performance by fluorocarbon. Since there are so few (if any) industry standards in regards to rating fishing lines, combined with so many different formulations and variations on the market, it really is getting difficult to make general comparisons...but I'm with you on stretch and manageability -T9

Pretty much use a Palomar for everything, including buzzers on braid. No real secret here - simply increase the length of your doubled line and loop size to accommodate whatever size bait you are using, then tie like normal. -T9

Not likely anything special from that time frame unless you happen to have access to some type of discontinued bait. Most of the Bagley's that I've seen that get some dollars thrown their way are the late 80s all brass line tie baits with lead tuning buttons. There are a few models and colors in those old lines that hold their value well. I have a fairly decent sized group of these baits I've picked up over the years and I'd bet the average price I paid was in the $15-$20 range per bait. -T9

Always fun to look at generated test data, but in my eyes, your post/data suggests two things to me: The knot that works best is usually the knot you tie best. You happen to tie a good clinch knot, but are not so good at tying the others. For example, if you simply take your listed data sets and run standard deviations on them, you'll see the clinch knot easily has the lowest SD of the four (~25% better), while the other three are all almost identical (throwing out the 4 Palomar outliers. Much worse SD if you leave them in). Every knot mentioned in this post or all the other previously related posts has someone who thinks it's the best, or at least has never had any issue with said knot. In my mind that simply shows how little pressure we put on knots when our equipment is set up correctly and you have a pretty good grasp of how to play a fish properly (very much inline with SirSnookalot's thoughts). -T9

They aren't...sold to a trio of guys that included Don Logan, Jerry McKinnis and Jim Copeland back in 2010. As for memorabilia, here's an original newspaper ad, one of the very first they ever placed in other magazines trying to drum up members. It is from 1969. Notice the magazine was only published quarterly back then. Didn't even list a price to join. Just send for more info.

I'd bet it's the Mass. fish. An outside guess would be a couple Virginia fish of the same size, though FL genes are in play to some degree in that state. As Tom said, the Alabama 16-pound, 8-ounce record was a Florida-strain fish raised in a carefully-managed private lake in Shelby County in 1987. Oklahoma state record also had FL genes. If you draw a line across the country using the 37th parallel as the divider, only three states north of that line have a state record bass over 14 pounds, Virginia, Indiana and Mass. IN and MA were northern strains. That accounts for 35 of the 50 states. Most every state south of that line has a larger state record (>14 pounds) and many, if not most, were FL strains. Tennessee record stood for 60 years until this spring when a FL strain finally broke that record. As for where next - Japan... -T9

Then move on to the long answer: the fish must die. Here are the guidelines for properly certifying Indiana state record fish: Size is determined by weight measurement first, then length, for state record fish. Both weight and length measurements are required. The weight measurement must be taken before the fish is frozen and on a scale that has been certified by the State of Indiana to be accurate to 1 ounce. If you can’t find a certified scale in a grocery, hardware, grain store, or propane distributor, call the Indiana Division of Weights and Measures at (317) 356-7078 for the nearest location. Obtain a copy of the Scale Inspection Report from the store owner where the fish is weighed and submit the report with the entry form. Submit a printed meat packaging label showing the weight of the fish, if available After weighing, the fish may be gutted and iced, but not filleted or otherwise cut up. The fish must be available for inspection and identification. State record fish entries may require verification by a Division of Fish and Wildlife fisheries biologist. It is the responsibility of the angler to schedule a time to have the fish examined by a State fisheries biologist. Two witnesses, who are not relatives, who observed the length and/or weight measurement must sign the entry form. Provide the location information on where the fish was weighed. Provide side-view photograph(s) of the fish and copy of fishing license, if required.

Please don't take this wrong, but the short answer is don't worry about it. Our state record will never be broken in our lifetimes The long answer though, as a bank angler in Indiana, the fish must die in all likelihood unless you are prepared to take extreme measures on every trip. -T9

All I can add then is that you have fallen victim to the hype of recent converts and marketing. Hula StickZ and WormZ are Elaztech baits from Z-Man. Even Ned rigs and rotates between 8-10 different soft plastics trying to find the shape and action they'll hit best on any given day...and always fished on mushroom head jigs. http://www.in-fisherman.com/midwest-finesse/midwest-finesse-lures/ -T9

I try not to overthink it. Black, white and yellow covers everything for me. White because most prey fish have white/lighter bellies. Yellow because up north here, perch and bluegill frequently are the predominant prey, and black because of maximum contrast. -T9

Use a full sized Hula StickZ or a Finesse WormZ or a Zoom 4" lizard or Tiny Brush Hog - all 4" baits used regularly by Midwest Finesse anglers..."Ned" is a philosophy or style of fishing, not just one type of soft plastic bait (TRD or 1/2 ZinkerZ) -T9

So is that to suggest that there is a knot where the longer you fish it the stronger it becomes? Seems like that would be a fair statement of every knot, otherwise we'd never have to retie... -T9

Shad spawn is likely over by now in most areas. Usually happens with water temps in the upper 60s or low 70s. Here in Indiana that's about the third week of May, give or take. You'll see all the commotion as little packs of shad herd each other tight to the bank and start splashing around, sometimes nearly out of the water. Usually happens during low light time periods, but not always. -T9

It's normal. Beside, it's never a bad idea to clip off 6" or more of line when retying just because that last little bit gets most of the stress and damage. You're probably helping yourself by doing it that way. -T9

UMF final will be an hour long, but shown as two half hour shows (Part 1 and Part 2). -T9

Are you speaking in general terms or compared strictly against Hevi-Core? Fluorocarbon has several advantages depending upon what you are specifically comparing it to including density (affects sensitivity and sink rate - both better) and lack of water absorption (affects abrasion resistance and stretch - both better) as being the primary factors, IMO... -T9

LOL - - they only matter because many of the manufacturers and people who do tests tend to do them all on dry lines, so you have to deal with that when interpreting their results. Plus there is the fact that at least initially, every outfit you throw beginning any fishing day will have line that has 'dry' properties (unless presoaked or sprayed - KVD, etc.), and that line's properties will change (not fluoros or braids) throughout the day the more you fish them. Which all goes back to my point of not having an argument over it until you create the definition or parameters of which you judge....but I get your point -T9

While we can debate the question forever, the simplest answer is that there is no 'one' correct answer. Much of it depends a lot on how you define and try to measure sensitivity. Another thing to keep in mind is that the mechanical properties of the nylon-based materials will change when they get wet, so you have to define whether you are testing wet or dry, and if wet, what percent of moisture absorption we're talking. Again, this will likely vary by manufacturer and formulation. Plus there are the factors of tension, molecular density, diameter, line coiling, etc.. Much easier to just group them as a class of lines and compare against other classes (fluorocarbons, braids, etc.) generally. -T9

No - most all braids are made from Spectra or Dyneema fibers which have practically zero water absorbance properties. The only water you might get is what gets carried on/in the spaces of the braiding itself, though that would be minimal as water tends not to cling to these fibers (which is why they usually feel so slick to the touch). -T9

^^ This ^^ All lines including fluorocarbon will float due to the surface tension of water if you simply place a piece in water. Once that surface tension is broke though is where you see the differences. 832 stays under (water) if pushed there, though some tests have shown it to actually sink slowly. Might depend upon pound test tested Other braids like PowerPro will keep popping back to the surface no matter how many times you push it under water. Mono is close to neautrally buoyant but will fall slowly, whereas fluoro definitely sinks, and at a faster rate than mono. -T9

Have been playing with the FG knot some since it first posted. Have had some mixed results from the standpoint of it not seeming to hold right with some of the braid leader connections I've tried. Haven't figured out if the smaller diameter lines I use are part of the problem or not. No problem with stuff like 30# braid and 17-20# fluoro. When I get a setup that holds though, it is solid. Going to keep playing with it more. For everything else there is the Alberto. I've basically been tying the FG at home right before a trip and leave it at that. If I have to retie a connection on the water, then the Alberto gets the call. It almost never fails. -T9

I use that knot all the time (I go 7 down and 6 back) with 3#, 5# and 8# braid going to 6# and 8# fluoro leaders without problems. Always double check the knot good after tying and before using, but otherwise, very rare to have it fail from unraveling/slipping in my experience. -T9

Not just a Florida or tannic water color. One of the better all around soft plastic colors made, IMO. Works real well on our local waters. Never leave home without it -T9

Shin was painting his with nail polish, and from the picture, it appears to be a more darker pearlized finish. That would be more similar to blood red in the Gopher lineup. Personally, I use "hot red" which I believe is a newer name for what used to be called fluorescent red. If I'm not using black or unpainted, then it's because I want something that stands out, and that is flo. red and chartreuse most times. Those 4 colors of jigheads comprise 80% of all my mushroom head jigs I use with MF. -T9

What you are starting to see is due to the fact that so many people all over the country are now throwing the Ned rig, and subsequently adapting it to their local waters and the way they traditionally fish, you get a variety of answers to questions like this. The posts above have pretty much touched on the differences though. Shakeyhead fishing is what Ned refers to as part of 'power finesse'. Ned writes, "The most important feature of the six retrieves revolves around the concept that we call no-feel. That means we cannot feel what the jig-and-soft-plastic combo is doing or where it is during the retrieve...Often newcomers to Midwest finesse tactics find the no-feel retrieve to be so disconcerting that they quickly give up and resort to using what we call power finesse tactics. In order to feel their baits, power finesse anglers work with 1/8-, 3/16-, and 1/4 –ounce jigs." A comment on "no-feel"; A good many of the Midwest finesse retrieves are based upon keeping the lure off the bottom and swimming through the water column. This is kind of opposite of shakeyhead fishing where you tend to keep the bait always returning to the bottom and feeling for that. The recent off-shoot of fishing Ned on deep, clear Ozark lakes tends to favor keeping the lure on the bottom and barely moving, utilizing the natural flotation of Elaztech combined with the stand-up ability of a mushroom head jig. However, on the more shallower and stained flatland impoundments where Ned developed/resurrected Midwest Finesse, shallow swimming in one form or another seems to be the more dominant (and original) presentation. Another new adaptation is the mushroom head weedguard so you can fish the Ned around weed and wood cover better, more similar to a shakeyhead. Again though, the original Midwest Finesse concept tended to avoid those lairs and instead focus on more overlooked "plain" or "nothing looking" banks where the open hook jighead gets the majority of use. -T9