KenG85

Definately understand the value of the tool...but I would hope the price to be based on the materials and workmanship. they would probably make profit at 9.99

I want one, but d**n thats pricey for a piece of plastic with a screw...

Split grips look way better, but full handle cork casts way more comfortably (two handed). Split grip spinning gear is the only way to go.

Put a revo premier on a dobyns champion....it will float out of your hand.

i don't throw much black...but its great for spinnerbaits and buzzbaits. I throw alot of green pumpkin and watermelon.

there is a 734c....

this is how I do it. I made this one for the spring.

I've read that in my reel's manual, too. Thanks for clarifying the semantics. Excessive breaking and backing off when you gain confidence is my reccomendation. I'm sure the tape will work too. Didn't mean to start a squabble or tickle anyone's ego. And having extra breaking doesn't make you cast 5 feet if you don't over do it.

I would prefer simpler packaging that reduces the price of the bait.

....but why not just tighten the breaks up? That's what they're there for. You can't get a bad backlash when spool speed is limited. I don't remember backlashing being that dramatic. anyway people are different...Maybe I'm just a trial by fire kind of guy....others like to have their hand held. Either way this post is supposed to be about the op learning to cast. So if you stick with it you'll get it either way!

No, not manly, status quo. The tape just seems unneccessary. Plus it's worth learning how to pick out bird's nests. Your gonna get them, so you should know how to take them out. Otherwise when you take those training wheels off and you start getting them you'll be cutting and respooling. Just start with tight breaks, it will teach you more about the principles of breaking.

sounds good...i'm interested. I have some good stuff to put in. Live target, lc's, and some NIB rapala dt fats. Anyway to see what's in the box....can someone post a picture of the contents every once in a while?

I dont think I agree with taping your line down. Sure it sounds safe but seems very baby-ish. Start with breaks tight and slowly back off. You'll soon notice that every time you back off the breaks your casting a lot farther. Then you'll get excited and back off more and BOOM. You're line just exploded in your reel. Tighten it back up a little more and now you're dialed in. After you use this setting for a while, you'll learn about using your thumb for breaking. Now you've just gotten signicantly better.

Most will say to start with a 7' M or MH rod. I would be hard pressed to disagree. As far as the reel a 6.3 gear ratio is great for anything. Spool it up with 12lb mono and you'll be able to perform any technique reasonably well. You're standard choices are Daiwa, shimano, abu garcia. I love the revo series. Durability, smooth retrieve, powerful/smooth drag, and extremely comfortable profile are all the selling points. I think you're starting price is very reasonable and you should be able to find quality gear that won't break down at that price point. I have a perfect combo for you if you're interested. Cabela's Prodigy baitcaster with an Abu Garcia Verdict 7' M-F. It's definately a do it all rod, that's lightweight and extremely sensitive.

So the general idea is that you put in the same value that you take out. Then you ship to the next guy for 11$?

Dude, I'm trying to sell a St. Croix LTB "Big Cranker." This thing is absolutely perfect for ripping traps. And a lot of other things including spinnerbaits and deep cranks. It weighs 3.6oz. and is a MH/MOD, lure weight 3/8-1oz. I even have a Revo Winch I could let go with it. PM me if you're interested. I'm selling it because I bought a dobyns 765cb glass it does everything.

I'd buy a reel...i love me some revo's

There's a few crankbait rods that do it all. I would strongly reccomend a dobyn 705cb glass or 765cb depending on whether you like shorter or longer rods. These rods will thrown anything from Bandits and baby 1 minus's to 10 to 15' divers. And will do all of them very well. People say glass is less sensitive then graphite. And also that glass is heavier than graphite. But thats cuz they're not fishing a Dobyns. Ttheir champion series glass rods are as sensitive any graphite rod. And they're extremely light... like 4oz. The "5" power is MH and has plenty strenght to pull in the big ones. The rods are also so good that there's no need to fish with mono. I use flourocarbon. They are pricey, but think about being able to use one rod for every single crankbait you own. And to be able to do it better. Someone has one for sale in the fleamarket for 170. Just get it you'll be happy. I know I mentioned it a few times....but man it's worth mentioning 3 more times. It's simple perfection.

It's all about constant tension and pressure keeping the hooks pinned. The reason fast action rods suck for cranking is that they respond to changes in tension too fast. This allows the fish to create slack and throw the hooks. A fiberglass rod reacts much slower and it could be described as more "forgiving" under these changes in tension caused by the fish. Many techniques can be performed adequately on lots of equipment...but cranking is not one of them. People dread jumping bass when fishing treble hooked baits, but this no longer scares me since I've been using my dobyns cranking rod. I just lift my rod and create tension, the rod keeps the fish pinned. Get a designated cranking rod; this is an application where spending money will definately get more fish to the boat. Or you can ignore this and wonder why you keep losing fish.

+4 on the baby 1-, this thing works wonders over the shallow grass. Whenever I feel it tick the grass I stop it, let it float up and then either twitch it or rip it. Then restart the retrieve. This is when they destroy it. Also the lipless baits are a good idea...It's ok if they keep getting grass on them. Just rip it free. Sometimes you have to rip it 3 times to get the grass off. Sometimes the grass just doesn't come off. But it doesn't matter, you' d be surprised how they'll smack that thing. I've gotten bit on the fall after 3 successive violent rips on a 7'6 rod. It may feel like your movements are unproductive to fish, but you'll be pleasantly surprised when they take it.

Get a dobyns glass rod.....You cant lose the fish if you want to. 705 or 765cb glass.

I bet if you can find any gravel or rocks. That's where they'll be. Rocks warm up really fast and supply food.

Hope that helps!

This is the time for bank fishing!!!! I live in NJ, so I also fish the northern cold water, yours may warm up slightly lighter then mine. But still, fishing is awesome. Whenever we get consistent warm weather these bass can be right on the bank hanging out in 6 inches of water. It's almost like they're dying to get shallow but only can when conditions allow it. Throw 1/2 oz and 1/4 rattlebaits, my suggestion is the red eye shad. The fall of this bait separates from fall others and the fish destroy it. One big benefit is if they're not right on the bank you can still toss it 50 yards. Use a MH cranking rod and 12lb+ flourocarbon. I use a Dobyns 765cb glass, with 15lb berkeley 100%, on a revo. If you can get em that way, second choice would be a slow-rolled spinnerbait 3/8 to1/2 oz. White/chartruese/green's work for me. Find out what they're doing. Are they in shallow grass, lilley pad remnants, timber etc....? A spinnerbait is great for all this. Lastly, if necessary, during a bummer cold front switch to plastics like power worms and lizards. Carolina rig is a great way to go. But not the traditional 1oz. weight giant plastic type. But rather 1/4 to 1/2oz. weight, 4-6" worm/lizard with a 12-18" leader. And definately don't count out the T-rig. My last resort from the bank is a 3-5" grub in white, pumpkin, or chartruese on a 1/8 -1/4oz. jig head. Creep this thing as slow as you can with out getting hung up. Tick the grass, wood, rocks, etc. If they're not biting by the end of all this, find another location/pattern. Here's a few of my cold water bass from the bank this year.

If you "HAD" to go with one rod series it should be Dobyns. which ever fits your budget best. A rod should be well balanced and have specific characteristics for what you plan on using it for. Dobyns does these things very well. But an extremely important part is what you don't see or even fish. That's customer support. These rods you buy for life and they will be behind you the entire time!!! 60$ gets you a new one no matter what happens or when it happens.