WCCT

It really depends on what you want. I like to use a big blade, like a size 5 willowleaf on the back, and a size 2 or 3 on the front. If you order an catalog from Barlow's, Stamina, or Jann's Netcraft, they have blade size diagrams in them to help you out.

This and Bob's Tackle Shack are the best places for molds. You can't beat aluminum for molds. It produces the best looking bait out of all of the different mold materials. Initial cost is pretty high, but it will last you forever.

I agree with the previous post on fiberglass resin. It allows all of the detail to come out in the finished product. Durham's Rock Hard water putty is another choice. It is good for prototypes that you want to try out, and it is really fast and easy to work with. I use modeling clay to sculpt my prototypes, and then use the water putty for the first molds. If I like it I send it off to be milled out of aluminum. This is by far the best mold material out there. It will cost you though :-[ Lurecraft will mold your baits out of silicone for about 70 - 80 bucks, with additional molds costing about 10 bucks. Not as good as aluminum, but still pretty good. Also take into consideration if the mold needs to be a two piece mold, as in Senko's or fully rounded worms. These will cost considerbly more because of the time involved in making them. I will give you one warning. Making soft plastics is highly addictive

1. KVD 2. Swindle 3. Tie: Larry Nixon & Marty Stone

1. Dropshot small handpoured worms 2. C-rig or split shot 4-5" lizards 3. Burning a spinnerbait

Have any of you tried those yellow cameras on Ebay? Just wondering if they are any good, and how they compare to an Aqua-View. Thanks

My small tackle business made some pretty good money this year. Next year looks like it will be even better with the release of a few new baits, and some new store accounts. My tournament fishing was kept to a minimum this year , but I probably broke even.

Be confident on each cast. Visualize that a fish is in each spot you cast to. This will in turn make you slow down and present you bait in the proper way. It will also help you stay focused on those slow days when the bite is extremely tough. It can really pay off when in a tournament and you have gone a few hours without putting a bass in the livewell. It can all turn around on the next cast, and if you actually believe that, it just might

Dropshot, Dropshot, Dropshot

tackleunderground.com is the best source for info out there. Del-Mart and Bob's Tackle Shack make aluminum molds, and custom molds, which are a lot more money. Lurecraft has the best selection on silicone molds. As far as materials to use to make your own molds, I recommend resin and Durham's rock hard water putty. Aluminum has the best finish followed by resin and then silicone and water putty. Del-Mart has kits available with everthing you need to start pouring. The best plastic to use is M-F and Calhoun's. M-F manufacturing also has molds and color and glitter, and they are all great to work with. I hope this helps.

Spider grubs are a mainstay up here in the northwest. Most people like to just drag a spider jig on a football head in water as deep as 60' This is a deadly presentation. I also like to throw them shallow, and hop it back to the boat rather quickly. This is a very effective way to find active fish.

What kind of baits are you designing? Crankbaits, spinnerbaits, plastics,jigs etc... Go to whatever category you fall into on tackleunderground, and you will find your answer. Feel free to post questions, that is what we are there for. Good luck.

Solar Bats with moss green lenses. I used to use Maui Jims and they are awesome too.

I use a 6'6" Yamamoto Dropshot rod with 6lb McCoy line. Light line will get you more bites. Don't be afraid to beef up your tackle if targeting largemouth.

When targeting smallmouth, I usually use a small finesse type worm, goby, or reaper. I fish these anywhere from shallow water, to 65'. I have great success throwing this around deep docks too. I will use a senko type bait, or bigger worm in shallow cover when targeting largemouth. On of my best techniques is to drag a dropshot when other people are split shotting or dragging tubes. That is the great thing about this rig. It is very versatile. Good luck

tackleunderground is the best place to learn techniques on making anything from crankbaits, to soft plastics. There are several companies that have a great supply of components. Lurecraft, Stamina, Jann's Netcraft, Barlows, and Mudhole to name a few. Good luck, but I need to warn you. It is very addicting

I work for a major telecommunications company. My shift is tues-sat 5:30AM to 2:00PM. Great shift for fishing. I usually can beat the boats out during the week, and there is not that much boat traffic on Mondays

2004 Chevy Silverado 3500 4x4 diesel

I would get the Lowrance over the Eagle. I should have bought the 332C, but I bought the 330c instead. Once I got the transducer mounted correctly, it works fantastic. I have two buddies that both have the 332c and they would not trade it for the world. It is one sweet unit. You will not be dissapointed.

Thanks for the opinions guys. I have a bass boat now and was just wondering if these fish n ski boats were good or not. I know Triton makes a fish n ski that you can actually order bass style windshields with. That might not be as bad, but I bet it still won't hold my 7' rods.

Do any of you guys have any opinions on fish and ski boats. I tournament fish, but I also have a wife and 2 kids, with a third looming in the future. I have looked at them, but I can't find one with ample rod storage.

I agree with earthworm77. I also pour stick baits and would never put them on ebay. Too many bad knock offs out there. If you can find some hand poured sticks, you will not be dissappointed. ;

I have a Lowrance LMS 330c Gps unit that doesn't seem to be working properly. The sonar part of it is not reading any thing. I just get a bunch of clutter. I have changed all of the settings as far as sensitivity and surface clarity go, but nothing works. I thought it was interference from my fuse panel, so I went direct to one of my batteries with an inline fuse, but it still does not work. I also tried changing the angle of my transducer. Do you think I bought a faulty unit? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.