Fishing Rhino

Figuratively speaking, I prefer to fish in the state of grace, which means under divine influence. Or, at least seeming to be guided by divine influence. Those days are rare, but when you have one, it's tough to beat that fishing anywhere else.

Now you tell us. I just cleaned them out of the four inch senkos, watermelon w/ blk & red flake. They had them marked down 20%, 5.39 per pack. Oh well, a dollar late, and a day early.

I've got at least 60, and that's 60 too many since Mass banned the use of lead as jig heads. Can use spinnerbaits with lead heads, but not jigs. I'll get to use them, but not on a regular basis. And no, I'm not interested in selling them for pennies on the dollar.

If Mass hadn't banned the use of lead, this is what I'd be using. I'd wacky worm using senkos. Currently I use Jackall Wacky Jig Heads because they are tungsten, and legal in MA. They have a weed guard which works pretty well. The problem is the eye for tying is above the jighead, and that grabs vegetation. All the same, I fish it in thick weeds and catch plenty of fish. This hook has the tying eye on the front so it will shed vegetation much better. www.basspro.com/Gamakatsu-Wacky-Jigheads/product/1108311840171/238645 A Jackall Wacky Jig Head with a Rage Tail Grub. It would work killer rigged on the Gamakatsu shown at the address above. As you can see in the photo below, the area between the eye and the weight can easily snag vegetation. I do use these hooks for wacky rigging. In fact, that is what they were created for. A drop of super glue between the grub and the weight holds the grub in place very well. If a fish tugs on the tail and the bend of the hook's shank tears the body, a drop of glue will mend it nicely. You can catch several fish on one grub.

I have all three sizes, but use the 3/32 for most of my fishing. If the water is deeper than 15 feet, I may go to the 1/8th. The 1/16 ounce can be used in shallower water, or for small baits like 3" sluggos. Be sure to check your line often for nicks and wear. Those critters cost over two bucks per. If in the slightest doubt, retie. I use four pound test on one of my rods. Doesn't take much damage for that to part easily.

For sure it is a religion down there. Two years ago we went to Martinsville for a cup race. I forget who the vols were playing, but no matter where we went, every store, restaurant, gas station or whatever, it seemed like everyone was emulating Bill Dance. They were either wearing orange clothing or the official hat of Bill Dance. Most sporting both clothing and the hat. Cars were sporting those flags that attach to the windows. Most had at least one on each side. It went beyond religion. It bordered on an epicemic of rabid madness. Last year we were visiting our daughter in GA. On I-20 west the traffic on one Friday seemed like an endless caravan/convoy of vehicles from luxury cars to beat up pickups, all sporting the same type of flags as above, but these sported a big "G" rather than a "T" on them. Don't know if they were headed to 'bama or LA or any other point west. It looked like the entire state of GA was on an evacuation route out of state. Up here in the Northeast, you never see anything remotely resembling the fervor in the South. Neither good nor bad. Just a difference in regional cultures. What does intrigue me is that the South is stereotyped as rednecked hicks, while the North is supposedly more academic. Yet there seems to be very little college pride in academia, and a ubiquitous presence of college pride in hicksville.

I don't know if it works the same for outboards, but the lemon law for autos gives a dealer three tries to fix it. If they fail to get the problem fixed by the third attempt, they must buy the car back. That's assuming the shop attempting the repairs was where the car was bought, or an authorized dealer for that brand. If the vehicle was bought as a used vehicle, the dealer where it was bought is responsible for repairs, unless there was time left on the factory warranty. I'm making the assumption you are taking the motor to the place you bought it, or to an authorized Mercury dealer. If you're not, all bets are off.

Inspect the water pump housing carefully. If the area where the impeller spins is scored or worn in any way, replace it too. A new impeller will not make a tight seal if the area in which it spins is damaged. Not only will it not seal properly, it will wear out sooner.

Fish it very slowly. Cast it, and allow it to drop to the bottom and sit there for a few seconds. You can mix up your retrieve by lifting it from the bottom and letting it settle and you can twitch your rod to hop it from the bottom, then let it settle again. I've had fish grab it when I've finished the retrieve and was just cranking it back to make another cast. Didn't weigh it. I've caught smallmouth about that size from the same pond. Which Long Pond? I know of at least three, one in Freetown/Lakeville, one in Plymouth, and another in Harwich. I've only fished Lakeville. Stay away from it on the weekends. The ramp is insane, and many of its users don't have a clue about common courtesy. I've seen someone working on their motor with the rig backed into the water because it wouldn't start. This with four or five rigs lined up to launch. Others seem to take their own sweet time like it was their own personal ramp. I've been there four times, and had good fishing once out of the four. It's a shallow place with a few rock piles just below the surface in the middle of the pond. If you don't know your way around, pay attention to the traffic, and you'll get some idea of where it is reasonably safe to transit. Based on my one good day, I'm certain there are plenty of largemouth in the pond. Finding them is the trick. There is a lot of bottom with vegetation, and a lot of rocky bottom. For a pond its size I've only found a few places where there are some steep dropoffs. And that's relative since the dropoffs may only go from two feet to six or seven feet deep. The water has a tea color stain, probably from the oak trees around the pond. The clarity is pretty good, maybe six to seven feet. The water is not murky, nor have I noticed any algae. Clarity is limited mostly by the stained color.

Massachusetts has banned the use of lead. I am using Jackall Wacky Jig Heads for most of my fishing, weighted wacky worms, shaky head, and even rigging grubs on them. I tried the Jackall hooks a few years ago, and liked them. But they were expensive. After trying several lead head versions similar to the Jackall, I settled on the Buckeye Flick It jig heads. They are a football jig head, and I prefer them to the Jackall. They are not noticably bigger in the sizes I use, 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8 ounce weights. The weed guard is better on the Jackall, but as far as fishability I give the nod to the Buckeye jig head. I fish a lot of rocky bottom, and they do not hang up as much, plus the Jackall has the eye on top of the weight where the Buckeye's eye is on the front, so it get less vegetation snagged on the head. But, I can live with either of them. I also use the Jackall rather than the usual barbed jig heads for fishing grubs, etc. I find that using a drop of super glue to secure the grub to the weight is more effective holding the body of the grub in place. Here's a pic of the bait. I rig four inch SK finesse worms the same way so that I can glue the nose of the worm to the weight. Note where the Jackall's tying eye is located. It's easy to see how it can grab strands of vegetation.

What experience you have in boat handling should factor into your decision. A used aluminum boat is preferable for someone with limited boat handling experience, simply because it is more forgiving should you bump a rock. They take less maintenance than a glass boat since the small diggers and grime that inevitably accumulates are not as obvious. They tow easier, are better on fuel, and the fish you seek do not care if your boat is wood, fiberglass/plastic, or metal. The downside is the aluminum boat will blow around more than fiberglass, and the ride in a chop will be rougher. It also depends on what you want/need for storage and amenities. Keep in mind that in nasty weather even the largest bass boats get small in a hurry. Chances are the weather that will keep you on the trailer with a 17 foot aluminum boat will keep you on the trailer with a 19 foot or larger glass rig. If it's too rough to venture forth in the 17 footer, it won't be much fun fishing in the bigger glass boat if you do go out.

Mashpee Wakeby on Thursday. Caught on this rig. I've been fishing mostly this, and wacky rigged Senkos, mostly four inch, but some three and five inch versions. I fish 'em on the same Jackall Wacky Jig Heads that I use with the grub. They are tungsten so ok for MA. I also use a drop of super glue to button the nose of the grub to the weight. A single bait will last a long time this way. If a fish grabs the tail and the bait tears at the bend of the hook's shank, it can easily be mended with a drop of the super glue. I also use this hook for shaky head fishing. I like the four inch Strike King Elaztech finesse worms. Rig them the same way as the grub's body and use a drop of glue to secure the worm to the weight. You can fish one SK worm until you lose the rig to a fish or lose it to a fish or a hangup. I've caught over thirty fish on a single worm with only scuffs on the surface to show it had been used. If I hadn't lost it to a hangup, it could have caught many more fish. I prefer the Loctite in the picture below. You get a lot more for your money and it has a better applicator than the Crazy Glue. Thanks to Tate, the guide for the day's fishing.

Upon further review/research, it would have been a world record striped bass caught in fresh water. World Record Freshwater Striped Bass The world record freshwater striped bass was caught by Hank Ferguson in O'Neill Forebay, San Luis California, on May 7, 1992. It weighed 67 pounds 8 ounces. O'Neill Forebay is a 2250 acre freshwater reservoir in Merced County, that is part of the California Aqueduct System. To find out how striped bass got to be in the California Aqueduct System follow this link: California Striped Bass. http://www.striperspace.com/about_striped_bass.html

I stand corrected.

Whew! I'd hate to be on you shoot list Al. How's Peg?

It's not even close to the world record striped bass, unless there is a fresh water category. Greg Myerson is the current IGFA record holder with an 81 pound 14 ounce striper. Still, it's definitely in the bragging size. http://www.onthewater.com/fishing/its-official-new-world-record-striper/

Giving it away should be your first option, but from your description, you're not likely to find any takers. Cutting it up will take considerable time. Have someone run a bulldozer over it and crush it to splinters. If it has any paint left on it, you will have to pay to have someone accept its remains, just as you would for anything that is considered detrimental to the environment. So, that leaves you a third possibility. Get your trailer operational, and offer the rest of the steel to someone who will take the boat off your hands. Let it be their problem. It's worth a shot. I had my old 45 foot lobsterboat on wooden blocking and stands in our lot next door. The old girl was getting weak and the hull was beginning to list as the bottom was caving in where the stands supported it. A local scrap metal place came with two large dumpsters and an excavator. First they pumped all the diesel fuel out of the tanks (over 300 gallons), all the hydraulic oil, and all the coolant. All the wood went into the 40 yard dumpster. As they pulled it apart, starting at the bow, they crunched it up, after depositing the pieces in the large dumpster. When they opened up the engine room, they took out the three 8D batteries, and capped or plugged any lines that might leak. If there was any leakage, they were prepared with speedy dry, and absobent mats. They did it for the steel and metals in the boat including copper, bronze, aluminum, and stainless steel. Cost me nothing. The entire boat fit into the 40 yard dumpster, reduced to splinters by crushing it with the excavators bucket, equipped with a thumb for gripping, ripping and crunching. They started at eight in the morning and they were gone with all their equipment and the area where the boat had been raked up and cleaned of any debris by eleven-thirty. They nearly filled the 10 yard dumpster with metal from the boat. Only a few years ago, a contractor offerred to bust it up and haul it away. He wanted 5,000 dollars for the job.

They could more than double their coverage of the actual contests/events if they'd eliminate all the time spent on the "up close and personal", or whatever they call them now, human interest pieces. I'm not all that interested in any of their personal histories.

Unless that fiberglass boat is an eggshell, it's going to be a lot heavier than an aluminum jon. As to which is easier, it's going to depend on an individual's skills. I've done woodworking and fiberglass fabrication. I'd opt for working with fiberglass. You can bond all the components in modifications without needing to drill holes in the hull for fasteners. If not done properly, when the hull of a jon boat flexes those holes can enlarge and cause leaks. In a fiberglass/epoxy job those parts may be able to flex with the hull. Even if they don't, and the bond fails in some place, it doesn't compromise the watertight integrity of the hull. The downside of fiberglass is that it will usually cost more. I would not recommend attempting either unless you are familiar with the one you choose, or are confident in your aptitude to work with tools. Boats are the number one victims of Murphy's law.

My previous comment was not directed at you. It was directed at the list of benefits of the external plug in provides, in particular the one I highlighted in red.

The following four lines come from the Bass Pro catalog page listed above. Charger inlet mounts to boat and hardware to your onboard battery charger Keep hatch closed while charging With hatch closed and locked, charger is safe from thieves 15-amp rating I may be mistaken, but I don't think it's a good idea to keep the hatch closed while charging. Seem to me that the chargers I have bought come with instructions that the battery area should be well ventilated when the batteries are being charged. Nope, not mistaken. See article below. BATTERY WARNINGS DANGER! RISK OF BATTERY EXPLOSION FROM HYDROGEN GAS. MAY RESULT IN BLINDNESS, SERIOUS INJURY, PERMANENT DISFIGUREMENT AND SCARRING. Batteries generate explosive hydrogen gas, even during normal operation. People have been injured by battery parts flying in an explosion. They can explode under normal operating conditions, such as starting your car. They can explode under abnormal conditions, such as jump starting, or if short circuited by a tool. They can explode in a parked car or sitting on a table. To help reduce the risk of these dangers and injury, it is of the utmost importance that each time before using your charger, you read and understand this manual, and any warnings and instructions by the battery manufacturer. Follow these instructions exactly. TO HELP REDUCE THIS RISK: Wear Personal Protective Equipment ALWAYS wear complete eye protection (THAT PROTECTS EYES FROM ALL ANGLES). [*]Avoid Flames and Sparks Near Battery and Fuel ALWAYS keep flames, matches, lighters, cigarettes or other ignition sources away from battery. DO NOT put flammable material on or under charger. DO NOT use near gasoline vapors. Make sure charger clips make good contact by twisting or rocking them back and forth several times. The second clip connection MUST ALWAYS be made away from the battery. ALWAYS plug charger into an electrical outlet AFTER all connections have been made. See OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS. If necessary to remove battery from vehicle to charge, ALWAYS turn off all accessories in the vehicle. Then ALWAYS remove grounded terminal (connected to car frame) from battery first. A tool touching both battery posts or battery post and car metal parts is a short circuit and will spark. When using metal tools on or near battery be extra cautious to reduce risk of short circuit, possibly causing a battery explosion. DO NOT drop a tool on battery. [*]Reduce Explosive Gas (hydrogen) Before connecting charger, ALWAYS add water to each cell until battery acid covers plates to help purge extra gas from cells. DO NOT overfill. Battery acid expands during charge. After charging fill to level specified by battery manufacturer. For a battery without removable caps (maintenance free battery), carefully follow manufacturer's instructions on charging. Some sealed maintenance free batteries have a battery condition indicator. A light or bright colored dot indicates low water. Such a battery needs to be replaced, not charged or jump started. Charge battery with caps in place. Most U.S. batteries are made with flame arresting caps. DO NOT pry caps off sealed batteries. Place wet cloth on batteries with non-flame arresting caps. Be sure area around battery is well ventilated before and during charging process. NEVER charge in a closed-in or restricted area. [*]Stay Away From Battery When Possible NEVER put face near battery. ALWAYS locate charger as far from battery as DC cables permit. ALWAYS keep other people away from the battery. They are not wearing safety glasses like you are. [*]Avoid Contact With Battery Acid Battery posts may have acid corrosion. DO NOT get corrosion in your eyes. Avoid touching eyes while working near battery. ALWAYS use a battery carrier. Carrying a battery by hand may put pressure on its ends, causing acid to be forced out vent caps. ALWAYS have plenty of fresh water and soap nearby in case battery acid contacts eyes, skin or clothing. If battery acid contacts skin or clothing, wash immediately with soap and water. If acid enters eye, immediately flood eye with cold running water for at least fifteen (15) minutes and get medical help immediately. In very cold weather a discharged battery may freeze. NEVER charge a frozen battery. Gases may form, cracking the case, and spray out battery acid. [*]Avoid Overcharging Batteries The non-automatic (manual) battery charger models can overcharge a battery if left connected for an extended period of time, resulting in loss of water and creation of hydrogen gas. [*]Follow Other Manufacturers' Recommendations Before using charger, read all instructions for, and caution markings on: (1) charger, (2) battery, and (3) related product using battery. Follow their recommended rate of charge. https://battery-chargers.com/battery-charging/qa-on-batteries-charging/

Be thankful for every day of the "why stage". When they stop asking, they either think they are smarter than you, or they don't want to hear the answer. When that stage comes around you'll realize how simple life was when you had to get up in the middle of the night to soothe a cranky baby, or to change a messy diaper.

Easy for you to say. You're not the one who has to live nine months with the results of your "thing that can be better than fishing." As a man, I will admit that I agree with you. As much as I enjoy fishing, it only gets the silver medal, in the Olympics of life.

Brand new? Take it back to the dealer, and tell them to fix it. I think the carpet under the seats is a bad, bad idea. What makes it even worse is that it is readily apparent that rain will get into that compartment, and the carpet will soak up all that water. If it were just painted the water could run to the stern and drain away when you pull the plug. There appears to be nothing that prevents water from running under the seats into that area. It had to be a real pain to vac that area. If it weren't a new boat, I'd suggest removing the carpet from that area. If you want the padding to cushion what you might stow there, cut a piece of carpet that will fit, and just set it in there. When it gets soaked you can take it out to dry.

I don't do Facebook. Having said that, I have a nephew who is going through a messy divorce, and he and his wife (not final yet) are constantly doing battle on Facebook for the world to see. They have each found someone new so they post about how happy they are, including pictures of them with the kids at the beach, or the park, or whatever, wherever. It's obviously an "in your face" thing they have going on. Reminds me of the "War of the Roses". Facebook may be fun, but it has the potential to be ugly as well.