kikstand454

Guilty. I will throw a paper plate, a small saucer and a Frisbee out from the back deck and stand on the bottom step and pitch/ cast to them.

Ah. .....see that changes my opinion. If the length from the reel to the tip is the SAME. ... and only the handle is longer- then get the shorter rod. The length advantage is only useful if its WORKING length- not wasted handle length. Long handles while fishing seated are a hindrance!

Yeah. .... I may have over exaggerated my real world worry.....but then. ...I don't have a single rig in the $500 range. Catch and grease - yes. But honestly- I find rod leashes more trouble/ more hazardous than they're worth. Also. .... some people like to strap their rods on their holders, but where mine are behind me....I have enough trouble accessing them. Having to unstrap them is pretty frustrating. Rod floats suck. I do have a new plan to reconfigure my crate/rod holder situation where I may be able to minimize the p.I. t. a. It is to strap them down. ..... because I know that needs to happen A-jay: man that guys setup is awesome! Lol. Its a mental thing with me I guess. $500 worth of multiple rigs somehow seem "safer" than a single rig that expensive. Ridiculous I know. My inshore "cheap" load out actually totals almost $400 when I add it up. .... Kshultz76: I hear you and understand your point. But in the bass boat, I feel that a freak event that is going to turtle my vessel and send all my gear sinking to the bottom is less likely. Obviously its much easier to kick a combo overboard, or step on one. ... but at least those actions are MY fault and is due to MY carelessness. But I guess most kayak accidents are user error too I suppose. ..... Again. .... its a mental thing for me I suppose. ... but I would never recommend a $500 rig to someone fishing out of a paddle craft. * shrug* Ymmv

With all due respect. ..... there is no way in hell I am going to take a $300 rod ( not to mention the $100+ reel on it) out in my kayak/ canoe. No way. No how. I feel nervous enough taking my current $200 rigs out in it. And I'm VERY comfortable/ confident in my kayak. I've been doing it for years. I would even venture to say that at some subconscious level- that's why I bass fish less out of my kayak....... I'm afraid to lose my expensive equipment. When I inshore fish. .... I have cheaper rods and hand me down curados. ....which I would be upset to lose- but financialy-I'm out very little. But those rods don't always translate over to bass techniques and I find myself wanting my bass gear. It gives me the heeby jeebies. Hey.......if you're comfortable taking a $500 rig out in your canoe/kayak. .....more power to you. Just don't let me know about it. Its making me nauseous thinking about it! Lol.

Like I mentioned in the other thread. .... I personally feel there's nothing worse than having too short of rod in a paddlecraft. If you can't get the rod tip past the front and back of your boat, then just fish for bream or crappie because the first bass that you catch that runs under your boat is going to break your heart. The longer ( within reason) the better.

Use the fish grip. Its better in everyway.

FTR - I routinely catch redfish in the 25" range on the h2o squarebills in the winter, cranking them down oysterbars. I can not imagine a more torturous test for a crankbait. An oysterbar is as bad or worse than any musclebar. The saltwater is a beast. And if you've never fought a redfish before....... imagine a 10lb smallmouth on steroids. I trust them completely.

I think the 7'1" would be the best option. You can do everything you want with it for the most part. Plus. ...the extra length is actually a plus IME as its easier to fight the fish around the front of the kayak/canoe. Take this with a grain of salt, but I also am in Florida, fish from a kayak, and try to only take 3 rods. 4 if I'm doing something that needs a specific rig. What you listed is what I would load out with in your position.....with the MH/F 7'1" filling the general purpose gap.

I think you would be OK with a moderate fast. ... I was thinking though, any time I'm throwing a c-rig, a deep crank could/should come into play. And vice versa. I wouldn't want to have to switch between the two on the same rod.

That old IRON is an awesome reel....... I have one that sits on a shelf looking pretty. Lol. It is a much better caster than I am and I can't control it at all. I cranked with it for a few months though- smooth as glass! I think you would have no problem using a 7'6" mh/f for both a Carolina rig and a crank rod. I use a mh/f crucial for my Carolina rod, and that's the thing I do most - by far! It would make a fine deep/medium crank rod, though the tip may be a tiny fast for it. My only issue would be the low gear ratio on the Carolina rig- but that's a personal preference. If its comfortable to you. ....have at it! Any MH/F 7'6"rod around the $100 mark will be fine- even better up to $150. Try some out and pick the one that feels the best with the iron on it! Good luck!

Frogs. And periods.

...... past or present makes it pretty tough. Say. ..bill dance 30yrs ago. ...or bill dance today? I'd have to go with the martins honestly. Roland of yesteryear. .... and Scott now.

I'm not sure what happened in your water there. .... but I can't think of a single problem i have ever had with anything H2O I have got from academy, and their frogs and cranks are the only ones I buy anymore. Sorry to hear about that ! Hope quality isn't suddenly changing. .....

First weekend of football! Welcome to my favorite time of year, where football and deer hunting take people off the water at the same time the bite turns on. Its a beautiful thing.

Yes I'm aware. I posted the article as many people confuse flipping with pitching. I made my spinning/flipping comment as a tongue in cheek kinda thing. .... like "who doesn't like peanut butter and jelly ! !??" ( obviously some people don't. I don't in fact. But its a common assumption that everyone does) And the topic was about the accurist with the flippin switch- which is a baitcast reel. So I was kinda sticking with that direction. I appologize if I suddenly offended any finesse guys that flip with spinning tackle. That wasn't my intention at all! ( nor was it relevent to my point. ..or the OPs question. .) I guess I was just frustrated that the initial advice was that getting this $100+ reel for $25 could be viewed as a mistake and that he " should've asked about it here first". Especially since he had already purchased the reel. He didn't ask about anyone's oppinion of the reel. .. he asked how to use it. Blah. I'm just hypersensitive about quantum bashing. Ill get over it. I apologize for derailing the thread. Flippin switch is useless....don't use it. The accurist is a great reel. Carry on.

http://www.bassresource.com/fish/flip-pitch.html Just so we are all on the same page here. ....

Sam's first post was a rather derogatory assessment of the reel. .....don't you think? Espicially since he apparently had limited / no idea what the OP was asking. Who the hell flips with a spinning outfit? Farther down, someone agreed with Sam's remarks and added the old " get what you pay for" adage.......which doesn't apply to this reel as it original market value was over $100 and is just discontinued - hence the value pricing. Furthermore, if you have been on the forum long, you are aware that the mere mention of anything QUANTUM will bring the naysayers out of the woodwork. Most of whom have little to any experience with the brand, and are regurgitating bad info passed on from some other naysayer. So. ....as common vernacular would dictate- haters gonna hate. *shrug*

Wow. So much misplaced hate. OP.- your accurist is a great reel that will serve you well for years to come. All 4 of mine have been rock solid for years and years. The flipping switch is not a gimmick. .....but rather. ...mostly unneeded. It is intended to re-engage your reel without I'm having to "click" your handle- giving you the tiny bit of time to switch hands ( most people cast right/reel right) if a bass hits your bait on its initial fall. That's for pitching. For flipping, which is where you pull line out with your left hand and feather your bait in and out of heavy cover, the flippin switch is intended to let you pull out a bit more line/let your bait fall deeper than the amount of line you pulled out in our left hand. ....while still being able to engage and set the hook without switching hands ( again, right hand cast/reel) . It works just fine if you can get used to it and it works with your skill set/ technique. I never use my switch as I buy left handed reels to pitch and flip/punch with- and don't need to switch hands when "casting". I have so many accurists not for the switch- but because they're solid reels that can be had for amazing prices sometimes ( as evidenced by your deal) . Quite honestly, if youre just starting out pitching and flipping- I would leave the switch off until you know what you "need " it for. You may never need it. Enjoy our reel! If you end up believing the haters above about the gimmicky "unprofessional " equipment you just purchased..... I will gladly buy it from you for the price you got it and ill gladly pay shipping to 32305.

I'd say 3.5-4. Nice fish!

Hahahahhaha! Yeah. ...right!

I did it today. Pitching a t-rig over and over. ...getting small over runs here and there. Didn't pay attention. Saw a stump out deep and swung for the fences- snap! A small knot caught on a line guide and my lure went one way while my reel just kept going for that 50yd cast! I picked it for about two minutes and decided the line was too damaged at that point. Cut it all out and respooled it in about 5 minutes. It doesn't happen much. ....but once or twice a year is enough to bring a spool of line and a pencil with me in my bag- just in case!

Use plastic cornerbead for drywall as lure hangers on the underside of your boat locker doors.

I like bubblegum in tannic water near cypress trees and also sometimes in tidal rivers. Tidal rivers are REALLY good for the yellow or yellow swirl trick worms. Rigged weightless and fished like a jerk bait just under the surface. Just note. The zoom trick worm is a great weightless worm, but there are MUCH better floating worms. I was just throwing that out there as something it can do well.

I think you're placing way too much blame on the hooks. Sticky sharp premium hooks will certainly catch a few more fish- but it can't make up for all of those misses. The gammy skipgap has always been a great hook for me and I never felt the need for a "better" hook in the presentations I use it for. Use the skipgap on your flukes too. That's the main thing I use it for! Lots of premium trebles to swap out on your old jitterbug, but do you think its the hooks and not just fishing topwater? I miss TONS of fish on topwater strikes- its part of the game. Did you feel the fish at all? If you had the fish ON and it came off- then you may have a hook issue. But if your just not hooking up at all. .....eh. ..... I wouldn't be so fast to blame the hooks.

Love my couple of crucials. I use my 7'6" Carolina rod constantly.