cidgrad96

Given the fact the SCV blanks are usually only retail about $30 more on average than the SCIV for the same model, I would be tempted to go SCV and not sweat it. I've heard of very few breaks on the SCV. Anyone heard different? Be interested to know. If there is a picture, it isn't showing for me, but just a thought and a question I had.

At least not anyone that knows squat about rods. ;D Really? How different can 9 or 10 guides be spaced on a 6'9'' rod with different effect? I don't get this either. Granted, I only have half a dozen rods under my belt but I have never heard of much discrepancy in rod spacing. Guide choice, single or double foot, even guide number sure but like you said, I don't know how many different ways you can put 9 guides on a 6'9" rod. As far as rods, as far as sensitivity goes, GLX, but steez rods do look sick. yeah, there is only so much room for variation. You would really only be able to move the guides so much and I really don't see that making a noticeable difference. I don't think it's been disputed they are not good rods - I see more of a philosophy discussion here... there's a difference in a factory rod and a custom rod. No doubt. Dan felt the weights can't be beat - that's bunk. They can be matched at the least. So we're down to splitting hairs. Is the guide spacing bad on a Steez? No. Never said that. But the same rod would perform even better with individual static testing and different guides - something that's going to come from a custom builder. Unfortunately the blanks aren't available, but there is comparable stuff out there. Hey... your money - your choice. Just trying to understand the logic and bias toward the high end rods.

It's about line control in both cases. Keep the line on a straight path to achieve maximum distance for casting. Example - guides spaced too far can create slap - takes the line off the straightest path and robbs you of distance. For fighting a fish, it's keeping the line in the same curve of the blank so as to maximize the power in that blank and letting the blank work how it's supposed to... a better tool. Example - improperly spaced guides can cause the blank to flatten incorrectly, reduce the rod's ability to fight fish, or incorrectly distribute the weight on the blank under load. Also, higher framed guides on top produce more torque (line is trying to push down and under the blank - resulting in twist) which really adds wear and tear over the lifetime of the rod. This is why spinning rods fight fish better - no torque - guides are under the rod. Blank itself has an impact huge impact on casting and fighting - but it's a total package and guides are what keep the line on the blank. I've picked up plenty of factory rods (not a steez I concede) where the line drops below the blank on a casting rod - that's not good. I've also picked up GLXs where the craftsmanship was terrible. Guides not properly aligned, gooped up epoxy, football finish on guides, etc. I haven't seen enough Steezs to judge that.

9 or 10... which is the right number? There's your first difference. 10 is probably too many to start with. 9 with micros, 8 with standard guides. - it is either more or less weight added to the blank. More weight added = less sensitive rod - more guides impact the natural flex of the rod blank - impact on casting distance through proper line control on the cast - impact on line control when fighting a fish - spinning rods are set up generically because they don't know what size reel you are using. When I know the reel size, I can use guides half the size, placed correctly, which results in a more sensitive rod (see 1st bullet) and typically a longer casting rod. A rod for a 4000 series reel won't be spaced the same as a 2500 I've never used a spacing template that was absolutely correct for a each individual blank of a certain make/model. Factories don't space individual blanks. Too expensive because of time.

Rod diameter does not equate to power. I can show you two rods, with different diameters that have the same power. Hoop strength is basically the ability of the rod to maintain it's structural integrity. Scrim (additional glass or carbon fiber add to align fibers and resins) and elastic modulus (aka Young's modulus - stiffness of the fiber) and tensile strength (force required to pull fibers apart - or break them) go into the equation. From St Croix: Advanced Reinforcing Technology (ART) is a proprietary St. Croix manufacturing process that adds strength to our rods in critical locations without adding weight or increasing the rod's diameter. By adding a very thin layer of special graphite fibers wrapped around the blank at right angles to the regular longitudinal fibers, ART significantly increases the hoop strength of the blank by preventing it from deforming or "ovaling" under severe a load, such as a powerful hook set.

Lots of reasons. There's thick wall design, thick butt design, and so forth. All have their place to achieve whatever the blank designer is trying to make it do. Typically the thinner butts will have thicker walls and thicker butts will have thinner walls. It's all about achieving hoop strength - in other words not letting the tube (the rod) go flat when flexed. It the rod goes flat, it can fail (break). I'm putting that in real simple terms - maybe over simplifying. The wall thickness through the length of the blank may vary to achieve the desired stiffness in sections. Basically it boils down to a difference in design. Both have their place.

What if you don't care about those things you listed or they satisfy your requirements. For example, it's going to be hard to beat the weight of a Steez rod. I don't know anyone that gives a dump about guide spacing, and as far as "kit" handles--what if the Zaion reel seats on the Zillions are your ideal seat? They are supposed to be great. What if you want top of the line guides like the Fuji SiCs? Then a Zillion or Steez would be perfect. That's why there are choices. Just trying to understand the ones people make. Maybe it's the reel seat shape - good reason. Just looking for reasons. That's a good concrete reason other than what steezy posted. The weights are definitely attainable - really not even that hard to do. They did it - why can't a custom builder? Daiwa Steez STZ631MHFBA SVF - 3.4 oz - 6'3" rod. I'm sitting here holding a 6'9" MH that weighs 3.6 - yes it's .2 oz heavier, but it's 6" more rod too. And it doesn't have Fuji SiCs which are lighter than what I have on this one. So I respectfully disagree regarding weight. Guide spacing... not getting into that one tonight. But it does make a difference in performance.

Guide spacing not based on a template Maximized set up for the reel you are using Locking wraps on single foot guides No handle "kit" as is on many of those rods Balance if desired Less added weight to the blank Specified handle lengths For many people - help picking the right blank (not applicable to all) A few things that come to mind right off the bat. But good points and a good question in "what is the difference". Then again, some builders make tanks, some make ferraris. Finding that difference can be harder than buying a rack rod and I imagine trust probably factors in the equation as well. Not to mention a lot of builders don't have rods just sitting around folks can try out either. All things working in favor of the production rod.

Good points Steezy - but a reputible builder can/will do the same. Not all will, but if you are picky about the production company, you should be just as picky about a custom builder. Nothing wrong with that for sure! Also fairly good % of that high purchase price on production rods is for warranty replacement. You're paying for the next one on your first. I'll give you an example. I recently learned some fly rod company numbers - Company X retails a rod for $800 - they have under $100 invested in it. Profit for them, the dealer, and warranty replacement is built into that $800 retail. (Info came from a highly reliable source as well - someone who did R&D for them) Again, sorry as this isn't the topic. Just trying to learn and understand.

boil it. Just watch the water temp. Over 180 deg F and you can alter the shape of the blank. Problem is it takes 212 deg F to boil water. Just be careful with it.

OK here's what I don't get... not trying to thread rob and feel free to blast me.. But why would anyone drop $300+ on a rod that is built in a factory? A competent custom rod builder can get more out of blank, offer things not available on factory rods, and make the rod specifically for you and how you fish - including grip size, grip material, guide options, and the list goes on. Just trying to understand why people are willing to drop serious coin on something mass produced when they can get a better tool for less money. :-/

If you are buying a rod because it's a Skeet Reese rod... are you really going to care who made it? No. If you are making a rod to compete with KVD rods, Ike rods, etc - do you need to price comparibly? Yes - same market. KVD rods are more - but they do use fuji components and hey.. it's KVD - you can't discount KVD! ;D

Glass - moving baits Graphite - feel techniques That being said, the technology behind graphite blanks has come a long way. Personally I pretty much use graphite for everything. But I also don't fish on off the shelf rods. Also depends on the individual blank. Glass is going to be a little slower to recover and heavier. Some folks feel they dont get a lure hung up in stumps, etc with glass because of that slower recovery.

I knew there was stuff floating out there but couldn't remember all the parts. That document Cliff Hall wrote up sums it up nicely!

Hey - you got it back in service and ready to catch fish though! I remember seeing the Kistlers with blue guide rings back last year. All the guys around here thought the blue rings were awesome. They do look good.

Per Jason Bruner, blank designer for St Croix rods (this was in RodMaker magazine last issue), regarding rod storage: "...keep rods in areas that are well under the 180 degree (F) range and don't leave rods subjected to severe deflection for long periods." He basically went on to say in the article that rods can change memory - like a being bent - if under strain and subjected to temps over 180 degrees F. He said it was subject to temp and humidity combinations and applied to both carbon and glass rods. To me, this would include storing your rods in a manner where they had a bend... like in a rod locker where they could sag. Not sure how hot it gets in a rod locker though. Hope it helps. I tend to trust what Jason Bruner says. He knows his stuff.

FUJI SIC stainless steel lightweight guides, two footed frames on first three guides, according to the website. Tip top size would be around the 6.5 - 7.5 with a X-Heavy blank Good Luck & Tight Lines!!! I don't mean to be disrespectful Reel but Fuji SiCs aren't metallic blue and he said it's last year's model. Probably changed guide manufacturers. Website is for new models.

Steve - I like that idea. Then you don't have to worry about what to do in the middle once the cork is gone! Reo - you can always make your own by cutting a hole in the top of the reel seat and then offsetting the blank in the seat. Basically the rod wouldn't be in the middle of the seat but along the top so the blank filled up the hole you made.

I'd bet it's a Batson but really either would probably match good enough you can't tell the difference. You'd have to measure the tip. Try this on how to measure: http://www.mudhole.com/site/instructions/tiptopsizing.html Tube size conversions: 0.078" or 1.98mm - 5 0.086" or 2.18mm - 5.5 0.094" or 2.38mm - 6 0.102" or 2.58mm - 6.5 0.109" or 2.78mm- 7

Start from the end opposite the guide ring. Usually easier to do a few wraps on the blank then have it climb up the guide foot. One layer of wraps, pushed together (packed) to make it solid coverage is all you need. Heavy salt rods require an underwrap to protect the blank. Bass rods, only a wrap on top of the guide foot is needed. To get an easy edge until you get comfortable with your brush or spatula when applying finish, you can wrap a piece of tape at each end and remove and you will havea perfect edge. Or you can apply the finish, wet a coffee filter with a little dentaured alcohol and wipe off excess from the edge to make a nice sharp line. Personally I use a hand rest and only use my brush while the rod turns at about 100 rpm in the lathe, but I have lots of practice and the rod turning like that makes it easy to get a sharp edge (but I still occasionally have to clean up an edge). Use a coffee filter because it doesn't shed fibers like paper towels do. Hope this helps.

A split grip - from the factory (not done yourself) - saves cost. Cork is expensive and it's one of the big reasons a lot of factory rods quickly adopted the concept. $ driven. From a performance standpoint - anything you do to reduce added weight to the rod blank increases sensitivity. With a split grip you are not ony losing cork but epoxy as well. The epoxy is probably the biggest weight savings area. Think about this... you may feel .25 oz is nothing... shaving .25 oz on a 4 oz rod is a 6.25% weight reduction - but that's the same as a 200# guy losing 12.5#. Here's a thought... if you don't grip in the middle of the handle... why do you need anything there? You don't. I know some guys that do and split grips are not for them. Split grips are not good for rod holders either.

NCP (NoColorProtector) thread doesn't require the use of CP. The idea here is it won't change color once you apply finish. I've had NCP change color though... :-/ Yellows, whites, tan, etc (light colors) usually have to have a silver underwrap or coat of white paint under to really maintain their color on a dark blank, even when using CP. You will also find several CPs on the market will darken the thread color on nylon thread. This is before you ever apply the finish. It's not a huge amount, but it happens. Best product I have seen for maintaining color is ChromaSeal. A little more $ but it's worth it. I really haven't seen a lot of darkening when using it. My next CP choice after that would be flex coat or U40. Nylon with no CP will turn translucent - not just dark. This isn't always noticable with black, dark blue, etc - but it does go "see through". It can make for a pretty cool look. You see the guide through it, etc. Perfect example... Cobalt blue nylon with no CP on a blue SCIV blank... can't even see the thread hardly.

I don't think the Argon or Carbon Steel use Fuji guides. Once you get into the Magnesiums, you begin seeing Fuji Hardloys. Depends on what line as to what brand guide it is. The long and short... as long as it is an appropriately sized tip (tube and ring), it will work just fine regardless of brand. Ring is probably a 6, tube is probably a 5, 5.5, 6, or 6.5. Most common sizes on bass rods.

One of the other reasons swimbait rod handles are longer is so you can tuck it in your side and not wear out your arm retrieving that big bait all day. On that note, I've been seeing a lot more long deep crank rods lately with longer handles. Guys are using that same tuck in the side technique so they can crank all day easier. A 7'6" rod with a 12" handle has the same usable length as a 7'3" rod with a 9" handle. Hope that makes sense. The advantage of a longer crank rod is longer casts. Longer casts are good because you can keep a lure in the strike zone longer and it's easier to cast past your target so the crank is already at the right depth when it reaches the target. Also, you have more control over depth with a longer rod. You can stick more rod in the water and drive a few extra feet out of a certain lure. Works real good too!

Just depends on what you did. Did you use NCP or nylon thread? Did you use CP (color protector)? Removal... heat it up LIGHTLY with a lighter, slit it along the guide foot using a razor blade, pull wraps off. You way want to look at rodbuilding.org... lots of info.