Marty

The reel will work mechanically with the larger line, but note the comments about coiling. All other things being equal, best line performance on a spinning reel is when there is a relatively small diameter line on a relatively large spool.

I have no idea of how the infrared meter would work. I use a stream thermometer like a couple of previous posters mentioned. When I read about water temperatures I interpret them to mean surface temp unless otherwise stated.

I prefer a free-swinging trailer hook. I just slip the trailer hook's eye over the main hook and then put the piece of tubing on to keep the trailer hook from coming off. You shouldn't be losing hooks from the bait hitting the water. Are you applying the tubing by impaling it on the main hook so the hook cuts right through the diameter? I would think it's very hard to lose hooks this way. Is it possible you're putting the tubing on lengthwise by inserting the hook point through the hole in the tubing?

Thanks for the info. I've been fairly satisfied with Power Pro, but it sounds like it would be worthwhile to try some Sufix next time.

I have a few Fat Frees and they work fine, but so do many other brands and styles of crankbaits. I would be skeptical about these being any better or worse over the long run than other brands of a similar style. Perhaps it's true that pros are winning good money on them, but I can't dismiss the possibility that at least one of the reasons is that Pradco is more aggressive with sponsorships than some other brands.

I'm not going to get into specific brands. I've fished a lot from shore in addition to boats. I've never been a technique-specific guy and my rods have been 6'6" medium power. For most of my fishing years I used 10# mono, but lately I use 15# braid more than the mono. Those rods have always served me well for a variety of techniques. Obviously the reel should be compatible with the rod and line size you plan on using. This year I bought a Gander medium heavy, but to tell you the truth, it just doesn't seem to be all that different from my mediums. Maybe a Gander MH has less power than other brands' MH.

I don't see why that should be. I've been using 15# and it suits my needs just fine. I don't know if fish see braid easier than other lines, but I have enough confidence that I don't use a leader. How about some specifics. In what ways do you feel Sufix is superior to Power Pro?

I don't think your wind knots have anything to do with what kind of backing you're using. Neither your casting nor fish-fighting should involve the mono backing; if it did, that would mean you have too little backing. I always figured that wind knots are one of the downsides of braid that we have to live with if we want to enjoy its advantages.

In New York the mouth may be open or closed and the tail may be spread or compressed, whichever yields the greatest length. So the answer to your question should really be to check your state's regulations.

I'm not familiar with Tierras, but I've been using Regal-Zs in the 2500 size for years, and I assume the Tierra is the same size. I've used 10# mono in various brands, some 12# Trilene XL, 14# Fireline and 15# Power Pro. I've executed many successful hooksets with mono, but I'd lean toward a superline if this is dedicated to T-rigged tubes.

My 2¢ is that I tend to agree with George. Some posts seem to get closed more because they strike a nerve as opposed to being detrimental to the forum. But, that's just how it looks to me. There's been a million posts about, say, Horny Toads and Chatterbaits, but those don't seem to get closed. But ask about a Senko or NGC product and people go into "let's lock this up" mode.

I have no experience with Deep Husky Jerk, but the other three are very good lures.

I don't know about rafts, but I just got a canoe this year and have used a five-pound dumbbell that works great in the soft bottoms on all my ponds and lakes.

I don't have a problem with using braid for any given application, but that snapping of mono is not normal and I'd want to determine the cause. I used mono for over 30 years before I tried superlines and never had snapping problems, except very rarely. And who's to say, the cause of your mono problems could also cause problems with braid.

Maybe most, but not everyone. I use spinning. I used to use some baitcasting and had no trouble with it, but I just liked spinning's versatility better. I don't think you should spend more money on baitcasting until you are 100% certain that you really want to use it. You say that you're not yet fully comfortable with it, so it seems you want to use it because everyone else does. I think you ought to have a better reason that that. No need to rush, it'll still be on the store shelves when you're ready. In the meantime, work with your Trion, the more you practice the better you'll become.

I usually tie a uni knot with a few less turns, however, I don't think it really matters. It seems to me that if something big is making a long run and takes out line right down to the end, that knot's gonna break, whatever it is.

Good information, thanks.

I slip the trailer hook eye over the point of the main hook then put on a piece of tubing to prevent it from coming off, but allowing it to swing freely. Not sure what you mean by a leader in this situation.

I consider not just the length of the bait, but also the diameter. I always want a hook gap at least double the diameter of the lure so there's room for the hook to get through the plastic and into the fish's jaw.

That's a heckuva price. I've been using both this lure and its close cousin the Grass Frog for about a dozen years and they're both very good. I do use the trailer hook that is supplied with the bait.

Generally, pike have light spots on a darker background. Chain pickerel are yellowish and do indeed have dark lines on the sides resembling a chain link pattern. Both are long and thin with long alligator-like snouts and a single soft dorsal fin set far back near the tail.

Topwater is not limited to any one geographic region. Here in the Rochester, NY area I do a lot of fishing from shore and probably use topwaters more than any other category. I've caught fish on virtually every type of topwater bait, but these days I generally use a Jitterbug where trebles can be used, buzzbaits for semi-weedless and buzzing frogs/toads for a weedless presentation. Chances are if you are fishing decent water and use topwaters enough you will catch fish on them.

Use what you have the most confidence in. They'll readily hit crankbaits, spoons and inline spinners. Good luck.

For lily pads I'd use soft plastics fished over, around and through the pads, letting them sink into holes and at the edges. Also weedless topwaters are often productive. Hollow-bodied frogs like Boett43 mentioned plus some of the buzzing frogs and toads for a faster presentation. Another thing to try with those buzzers is cast beyond the pads if you can, buzz them back and kill them right at the outside edge.

I seriously doubt that a color change in soft plastics makes a big difference, but try a variety of colors if you think otherwise. I've done a huge amount of shore fishing and have experienced a wide variety of problems that made me feel like I was in fishing hell, to use your term. I can't give you specific advice for that kind of water, as I've never fished gravel pits. If you think these waters offer you the best chance of success, I'd put in a lot of time, use a variety of lures and cover a lot of water. Fall lures I use most from shore over weeds are crankbaits, inline spinners, spinnerbaits and topwaters as long as the temperatures stay high enough (for me that's been mid-50s). Good luck.