Craiger12

I was thinking about getting there in late April. Any advice on how to attack a large, pressured fishery like that at that time of year? Sorry, I don't mean to hijack, but I figure others would like to hear as well.

Waramaug State Park - on lake Waramaug and located in Kent, CT I think (there are 4 towns that border the lake and I'm not sure which one the state park is in). It is a beautiful lake and currently my favorite lake in CT. Kettletown State Park - on lake Zoar and located in Southbury, CT. Lake Zoar is park of the Housatonic River system so there is a decent Smallmouth population. I have been camping at Zoar since I was a small child and have taken my boat the past few years. There is a public state launch with plenty of parking. I haven't done any camping at Waramaug, but the launch only has about 8 parking spots and it's first come first serve.

I know of a few in CT, but that's pretty far from Maine. Let me know if you are interested.

16# or 14# Toray Superhard Upgrade.

Sounds good guys. I'm pretty pumped for the spring. Such a looooong wait...

These are the exact two rods that came to mind when I first read the original post.

A price range would be very helpful.

Sorry, I can't help you out as I haven't fished Candlewood yet. I plan to get there this coming spring though. Do you have any experience there?

I highly recommend P-Line CXX for spinnerbait fishing. No need to mess with fluorocarbon here. CXX has excellent tensile and knot strength as well as incredible abrasion resistance. I am simply amazed sometimes when I don't break off after getting hung up. I only use 10lb CXX for 1/2oz and under, you could go with 12lb, but I don't see any reason to go higher than 12lb. This has got to be one of the toughest lines out there.

I will be doing my deep cranking with 8lb CXX this year. Seems like it would be a perfect fit.

Agreed about the excessive color bleeding with the Suffix. I have some 20# spooled up on my spinning set up. I have only used it 3 or 4 times and it is nearly white. This has not happened to me with Fireline braid even after much more time on the water.

One of the Daiwa Zillion variants without a doubt. At this point I would have to go with the 50th, but I have yet to use the Type R because of the price tag.

I fogged with Seafoam this past fall. Boat ran great the first time I had it out this year.

10lb P-line CXX.

Also, is there some type of adaptor that can be used to help get the oil in the tiny hole or is this going to make a mess?

Thanks for the help guys. Glenn - about how long is long? Are we talking like a few hours?

I need to change the oil in my trailer wheel bearings as it has become a little cloudy, indicating the presence of water. It tells me to use 50W oil on the cap, however I'm not sure which type to use. Do I need a specific type of oil, or will any 50W oil suffice?

It does seem odd that Nissan would do this, but you apparently heard correctly. This might help. http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/T43605-xterra-wiring.html Thanks for the link.

I recently (like last week) found out that I have a similar problem as the OP with my trailer. I went all last season just thinking that the place that installed the trailer hitch had just wired it incorrectly. I didn't have the best experience with them so I really didn't want to take the truck back and wait even longer for the problem to be fixed, so I just didn't haul in the dark. However, this year I wanted the problem to be fixed. After checking all the wiring and lights (which are LED) I found out that the vehicle just doesn't come wired for constant power, the running lights. Appearently I need to get an upgraded tow package of some sort from the factory/dealership. Needless to say, I'm really upset that I will likely have to pay more money just to have running lights that work when all the other lights function perfectly. Other than just trying to make some extra money of you, why would they sell the vehicle this way? Has anyone else had this problem, and is there anyway I can go about solving this problem without purchasing an upgrade from the manufacturer? I drive a 2010 Nissan Xterra if that helps in any way.

Memorial Day, I believe.

Kinda thought I would see more recommendations for mod/fast rods in this thread. I use a Dobyns 705CB graphite version for my jerkbait and shallow to medium cranking. Don't throw them enough at this point to have a dedicated rod.

First, please forgive my ignorance as I'm a beginner when it comes to boat/trailer maintenance. I was all set to clean and re-pack the wheel bearings on my EZ Loader trailer this past weekend when I noticed what looked like oil inside the dust cap. Upon further inspection, it calls for 50W oil written right on the dust cap. It looks as though the oil would spill out if I removed the cap so I didn't inspect any further. I can't say that I have heard of oil being used to lubricate wheel bearings. Perhaps there is another purpose? Does anyone have any experience with this or heard of this before? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Why would the hooks tear out with fluoro? (please don't say it's because of less stretch...)

How do you guys rig your tubes for cold water smallmouth fishing? I'm planning to get out on the water in a few weeks and target some smallies specifically throwing tubes and dropshot rigs. Looking for any specific hooks as well as rigging techniques as I am new to this. Thanks.

Will I have to wait until I get the hub off and bearings and seals in my hand to determine what size seal I will need, or are there standard sizes?