Delaware Valley Tackle

No it's based on the new purchase price.

Choose a Rod to compliment the lure, technique and cover you wNt to fish not a particular reel.

Don't confuse a more moderate action with a soft tip. They are not inevitably connected.

They are on par with each other quality wise. Pick the one with the features and deal that are most important to you.

Don't let the marketers fool you. Custom builders can access components every bit as good or better than any production Rod uses. If so inclined, building one yourself adds a level of satisfaction. If you don't want to invest the time and deal with the learning curve, you can always commission one.

I did a recent minor repair on an orochi. Nice Rod. The blank looked like Phoenix blanks I've built on but have no way to confirm. Not to sound self serving, but why would any one pick any over the counter Rod as their dream Rod instead of a full on custom?

I like a mod fast for shallow and cover cranking and a mod for open water and deep cranking. If your going out and get a technique specific Rod why not get something different than what you have ?

The transition guides don't need to be belly guides because they're not supposed to be under load but it won't hurt. Your basic idea is sound.

Grab a med / mod-fast for shallow to med cranks with the 10# line.

The benefit of light line for cranks is added depth. Not really a concern here. I usually throw shallow cranks around cover so 14#> is usual.

The specs you list are neither here nor there. The Ipt and drag are both more than sufficient. What model is reel #1?

The power and action are reasonable it depends on the tip of the specific Rod. Soft is more suited to top waters. A more standard tip for buzz baits .

I was shocked but saw a convincing post in the past that the combo PQ reel is different. Disappointing if true.

Jfrancho has posted about tieable wire got leader where toothy critters are abundant. I'd match some of that to braid.

I'm not familiar with these. They look interesting. Just how buoyant are they?

Even though the ratio is low ipt is still 20.6". It should be fine for mid-deep cranks, big spinnerbaits etc.

I agree completely. An appropriate handle design on a quality blank with the right drive train will balance as well as can be expected. Paying for all this and adding extra weight is counter intuitive. Rods are fished on multiple planes and with varying degrees of tip pressure. A lot of our perceptions of sensitivity , fatigue, stretchiness, smoothness etc are rooted in misinformation disseminated in the form of marketing and comments by "tournament pros" repeated so many times it's taken as fact. This whole game is all about personal preferences at the end of the day and you should do what works for you. For me, adding weight to nearly any rod is avoided. A casting reel is either palmed or held behind the reel. The former is a neutral position the latter is in front of the fulcrum of the lever (Rod). The size and weight of a reel can of course affect the feel but I can't see a heavier reel balance a Rod unless you're fishing it from a foregrip.

Anything that spins faster will be louder. The bearings you've tried are some of the best. The stock bearings in those reels are pretty good if flushed And oiled properly. Super tuning will squeeze the max out of them. Smoothness is all perception. Ceramic balls are rounder, smoother and harder than SS

ring should match smallest running guide. Most likely a 6 on a non- micro Rod. Yes gauge the rod tip about an 1/8" from the end.

Tops are sold by ring size and tube size. Ring is the inside diameter of the metal ring not the insert. Tube is in 64ths of an inch ( sometimes converted to mm). An ultra lite is likely a 3.5 or 4 tube.

You could ask 10 tx pros a question and get 11 different opinions. You can't defer to all of them. I listen to their thoughts, factor them in and come to my own conclusions or at least a comfort level high enough to experiment without anxiety.

The thing I like about the keitechs is how easily the tail swims. You can get good action and still have a slow retrieve. Fished on a 1/8 or 1/4 ball head with a dab of super glue durability improves a lot.

Sorry for nit-picking but the Rod builder geek in me compels me: The word parabolic is misused all the time. A parabolic Rod would be a slow Action that bends evenly along the length forming a U shape. Saying " more parabolic" is like saying "more square". The more accurate description would be slower, or more moderate action. Thanks for letting me vent. Back to work. Lol

The Shimano spinning reel AR runs dry. In the others, as long as the little plastic tabs move freely they work fine. You can run them dry but lots would complain of lost "smoothness". It's a bit of a catch 22.

The AR needs to be cleaned thoroughly during service which can be challenging. If the bearing is removable clean it just like he other bearings. Otherwise multiple wash and rinse cycles with Simple Green etc. Lubricate by swabbing with light oil. Some can tolerate grease but needs to be light and sparring on a perfectly clean clutch. In this case I'd stick with the oil. Also look at the AR sleeve. If it's corroded, marred etc. replace it.