Delaware Valley Tackle

Use a dowel and a washer maybe? Or just wrap tape to about 7/8" dia. You can rig up something inexpensive to simulate a blank and seat.

Based on the break location and clean break, this rod had likely been compromised in some way: scratch, dent or ding from contact with a cleat, rock, sinker etc.

The simplest way is just as you're doin it remembering: to fill a baitacster, line comes off the top of the filler spool and for spinning line comes off the bottom of the filler spool. The other way of doing spinning reels is to be sure the line comes off the fill in the same direction it is wrapped onto the reel spool. In other words, don't wing against the coils coming off the filler.

Braid actually neutrally bouyant. Once the surface tension is broken it's not going to float your bait. I could see a lead core for deep trolling or something.

Start by taping off the seat threads. Mix up a batch of paste epoxy. 30min will be easier to work with. Apply and let it start to set up. with rod turning in a dryer shape the ramp with a finger wet with denatured alcohol. Shape leaving enough depth to add thread and finish otherwise you run into trouble with epoxy in the threads or interfering with the hood opeing if threads are trimmed. Let is set overnight. Wrap with thread, paint or marble as desired and finish with guide wrap epoxy. It will take a little practice and experimentation and your final process may vary.

Light oil on spool bearings, grease on gears, gear oil on non-spool bearings, sliding parts and levelwind. Keep the AR clutch dry or oiled very lightly with a swab.

Wow, that's a score.

Granted, doing things online presents challenges. A competent builder will ask a lot of questions and make their best suggestions. Personally, I'll take a rod back if it's not what was expected as long as it's not way out of common parameters ( hasn't happened yet). For an over the counter purchase, the TW test drive deal is nice.

Yup some builds just make you think you've been sent for.

For one, the lews is the same basic platform for they'll be very similar. The revo is a big step up. From a pup max. What didn't you like ?

Yup and the sad part is with proper technique that rod will deadlift probably 4x the weight of that fish. If you must lift with your rod swing the fish to the side of the boat, reel down and lift holding the rod parallel to the water. That way the tip won't be beyond 90* to the butt

Imagine if car dealers sold cars based on mileage ratings of Far, Mod Far and extra Far. How far is far? You'd ignore the classification and just compare MPG. which in and of itself may or may not actually happen in use. Just don't get hung up on subjective labels. Look at the lure weight range and just be aware of manufacturer suggested uses. Handle them at a store if possible (tset drive) and when in doubt check in here (Car & Driver reviews). There's almost always someone with hands on opinon. At the end of the day everyone is different and the only true test is to fish a rod. Even if it felt good at the store, on the water may be a whole new story in either direction.

Felix, It's hard to say without looking into it. seeing as the drag worked, I doubt anything was hurt. I'll look into it if you want. You know where to find me.

The rule of thumb for setting drag pressure is 1/3 of line weight. Under that scenario 7# drag would be appropriate for 21# line, as heavy as you'll lkelt ever use. In the case of braid, go by line diameter equivalent not breaking strength. Too tight of a drag puts unnecessary stress on rods, reels, knots etc

Looks good. Ya a red and orange would look like a lava lamp. I've seen them in old pictures (clears throat). lol

In most cases a 2" tube will accomodate a casting rod and I need 3" for the higher guides on a spinning rod. Central vaccum pipe is thin walled and lighter. It works if you can find it. I usually get stuck just using the schedule40.

Fwiw the max for most shippers is 108". I just shipped a 9' Rod in a 110" tube. The fed ex clerk insisted on charging an oversize charge. Hold on to your hat ..... $87 NY to MD if it weren't a 30 mile drive each way to drop it off I'd have chopped an inch off the Rod and 2" off the tube.

Priority mail in pvc. Should be $20 total +/-

I've had luck with the MHX Mod-Fast cranking blanks for applications like yours and have heard great things about the Bushido crankbait blanks. Pheonix makes good blanks and if your builder hasn't steered you wrong yet, why not go with his recommendation?

There is no substitute for light weight or work around for excess weight.

Looks good. I know what you mean about losing interest. I have a one track mind and flit from one all consuming thing to another and back again. lol

Anything except replacing the guide is a temporary fix. FWIW I get $7.50 plus cost of guide to replace a single foot and $10 plus guide for a double foot. It's not worth shipping, just comparison. The thread holds the guide and the finish protects the thread for the most part. You can fish with bare thread but if it gets nicked you'll lose your guide. A coat of urethane varnish will suffice but won't look smooth uless you do several coats. I've seen Sally Hansen Hard-As-Nails clear used for quick and dirty repair but it will likely chip at some point.

The wrap looks nice and neat but it should be burnished into a random pattern to get the effect you want. I made the same mistake. Wrapped to tight and neat and didn't get and effect. Guide wraps look great.

Bang for the buck wise I reserve the highest level blanks for finesse rods usually spinning for myself. Also, "high" modulus is subjective and there are other aspects involved in building good blanks.

Not everyone has the ability or inclination to do what you do with your own design. It's not about the optimal client it's about striving to be an optimum builder. Consultation beyond "what color do you want?" Is part of what we offer should anyone care to take advantage.