Delaware Valley Tackle

A single 100% ceramic bearing costs more than some reels. Plus a bait of a given weight, mass and profile will only fly so far. There's nothing to be gained on the water with anything more than is available now.

There are different grades of SS and the "ceramics" are technically hybrids: ceramic balls in stainless races. The ceramic balls are rounder and harder hence the faster speeds and longer life. Durability typically takes a back seat when looking at high performance parts.

I've thought about having such a tool on my website but not only is it expensive I don't like the impersonal aspect. Seems contrary to the whole custom build experience. Seldom does a build end up being exactly what the client and I first discuss.

The GL2 is the least bang for the buck from Gloomis. There are as good or better at better prices IMO.

True. I'm a Boca dealer and got flamed on another venue for calling out another shop force feeding the bearing sale. They accused me of not being a very good dealer. Well my loyalty is first and foremost to my customers not not to any one vendor. Boca is a a good company with good products I readily recommend WHERE APPROPRIATE. ABEC5 hybrids are an upgrade over most stockers but modestly over properly treated ones.

I answered your question on FB, but I'll add that it depends on the application. I use lots of different brands of blanks as each tends to have stand out models as well as a dog or two. If you have a specific application in mind we can make more specific suggestions.

I tried but didn't post it since Scott's is much clearer. If you haven't, do some reading here for answers to lots of questions: http://rodbuilding.org/list.php?2

One of the traits of the Ned Rig is the Do Nothing / Feel Nothing aspect. You'll know when you get bit and the small light wire jig hooks don't require a fierce hook-set. As for landing fish, we land steelhead on light powered rods and no bass is any match for one of them. I'd for sure go with the light or ML rod that loads and casts well with the light weight.

It doesn't really matter. I hand wrap with the thread coming under, then up over the top of the blank which I turn away from me.

I find it easier to static test than to look up numbers and make the measurements. But I know what you mean. Familiar blanks I can eyeball pretty closely and sometimes hardly move a guide at all.

The useability of a rod with the tip shortened depends on the original power and action and what you'll be able to do with it. Shortening any rod tip will increase the lure weight rating and slow the action. From the description of the rod and the break, this one won't likely be very pleasurable to fish except for maybe vertically with a heavy jig or spoon maybe. A builder can use the parts for repairs if you know anyone. A running guide can work on the tip. I use them on float rods for ythe added height and used them frequently before Micro Tops were readily available.

That's exactly what I said in a phone chat. It's much simpler viewed than explained. One thig getting lost in the translation is the difference between a Simple Spiral and a Revolver (1 or none bumper vs a series of transition guides)

Quality wise it's hard to wrong at the price point among the name brands. It's more about features and personal preference.

"Braid Ready" is just talk. Unless they used the cheapest crap guides they could find they're all braid ready. As for line vs rod strength that's what the drag and common sense are for

Line weight rating is as subjective as all the other labels and easily the least meaningful on a bass rod. Let common sense prevail. Don't run 65# braid on an ultra-light or 4# mono on a flippin stick etc.

To some degree I separate Lure weight rating and power rating. It's possible to have two blanks with the same lure weight rating but one having a beefier butt section. One labeled Med the second Med-Hvy. That's just one scenario. There is a system called CCS (Common Cents System) used by a number of custom builders as well as some fly rod companies, the purpose of which is to put actual incremental measurements on power, action and recovery speed. It's way too involved to get into here, but it works and could be applied if the industry wanted to but don't hold your breath.

I do them with a nail knot around my finger.

The line goes fr 0 to 180 either way. What Scott's saying is that the area of line contact is insignificant and even more insignificant under load. The transition guide bears no load at all its just a buffer. This is just one of the multiple ways to skin this cat.

Because there is no standard. It's all subjective so it is what they call it. It's like calling them short, medium or long. What's short? 5', 6', 6'6"?

The lighter spool starts up easier. Just back off the umph a little bit. A nice easy roll cast will get better results than horsing it.

OP: I do both Revolver and simple spirals depending on the build. Lighter rods where casting is optimum I use the revolver. This setup uses the most natural line flow. On heavier rods for jigs and flipping I go with a simple.

You can even skip the bumper. On a bass rod there's no worry is a long friction generating run by the fish. Some builders just put a coat of epoxy the protect the finish.

About 6 rpm. Any slower you're more apt to get sags unless you go really light coats.

A frog on braid should cast well on anything reel wise. Any of the name brands in the $100> range should have the frame and drag to handle the job. The rod is a much bigger piece of the equation.

X2. How much improvement you'll see depends on what you are comparing to and realizing there are other factors that affect casting.