Delaware Valley Tackle

Regardless of braking, muscling a cast is the surest way to back lash. Use a fluid stroke and let the rod do the work.

The new Curados I've cleaned were packed with grease including the bearings. Once equally setup and adjusted I suspect you'll see more parity between the two reels.

Basic service includes deep cleaning and inspection and replacement of needed parts and costs $22. Add $12 for super tuning, $10 for Carbontex kit and $19.95 for two bearings. Any other parts and shopping are additional and at cost.

There have been a lot of versions over the years. If you have the exact model Smooth Drags Carbontex is a good upgrade. I super tune Ambassaduers but don't bother with bearings since most of the drag comes from the non disengaging levelwinds.

Any maintenance is better than none but this is a superficial and or interim maintenance. All those spray oils on the first video will actually dissolve grease. Plus he ignored the spool bearings. Oiling the spool shaft makes the bearing less effective by slipping in the bearing. Use this advice and send in every so often for a deep cleaning.

Centrifugal brakes are most effective when distance casting and throwing heavy baits that cause high start up speeds.

The schematic is marked 78-08 with one part number for the line guide. I've never seen one with a damaged line guide. Parts are available enough too. I wouldn't hesitate a second to run braid on an Ambassadeur. Braided lines have come a long way.

The President is arguably the best bang for the buck out there in a spinning reel. The lightning is a good budget rod as well. If you have extra budget the rod is where to put it.

True, there's no right or wrong, just preferences. The reel is a tad on the small side but will work fine. I suggest putting it on the rod you use and see how it feels and go from there. I prefer to fish spinnerbaits on a jig rod MH/F. It will drive the heavy hook home better. I also like a fast action rod for jerkbaits. I find it easier to control the bait especially when giving short subtle twitches. I worry about keeping them hooked up after I get the bit. Just a little more to think about.

If they are indeed selling un-lubricated reels, which I highly doubt, all the more reason to return it and buy something else.

A modern blank with built in ferrules is plenty strong and sensitive provided it is a quality blank to begin with. Fly and float rods come in as many as many as 4 pieces and routinely land bigger and stronger fish than a bass and this includes noodle rods that bend all the way into the handle. The lure weight rating on 1 vs 2 pc. rods in the same line may vary slightly but the action shouldn't given the ferrule is well below the tip. If it does, just look at another model. It's true that better quality 2 pc blanks are labeled as "Travel Blanks" but what's that matter as long as it does what you want? More one piece are made and sold based on demand.

That's a perfectly fishable reel especially for bigger, heavier baits. If you want it refurbished, the cost for members here is $19.80 plus parts & shipping.

I'll be trying some of them too. Just gotta catch up first. Their office is only 45 miles from me and they said I can pick up a sample when I want. I agree the gold guides only go with a green blank. Looks good.

I get lots that way as well as loose, rolling around in an over sized box and everything in between including padded envelopes.

The thing with the E series is they are so simple in design and easy to work on. The I isn't a nightmare just not as purely simple. The upgraded Citica is a great way to go to. The Curado came with a little better spool, but in use you'd not notice the difference.

The Albright / Alberto is a better knot imo and I also feel the FG has promise. However, a uni/uni knot trimmed flush shouldn't have ant dramatic affect on casting. You may feel it tick through the guides but actual distance should be acceptable. Given the conditions you describe, I'd attribute any casting difficulty to the iced up guides and line.

X2 Without the right rod, all these other points are moot. The sweet spot usually lies near the middle of the labeled lure weight range. To cast an actual 1/8 oz or weight the rod should be rated for something like 1/16-1/4. If you're putting a trailer on an 1/8oz jig you're casting near or over 1/4oz. and can probably look a power higher.

Stock, flushed and oiled with 1 drop RemOil. Have the reel Super Tuned next and see if you still need more. If yes, a pair of Boca ABEC5 Ceramic Hybrids are as fast as any reel can use @ $9.95ea. I have them or you can order direct.

The Curado is easy. Remove the cast control cap and pull the bearing with a bent bobby pin. Open the opposite side case and you'll see the other bearing. Remove the locking clip being careful it doesn't go flying and pull that bearing. Soak in a small jar of acetone (brake cleaner, carb cleaner etc.) for 5-10 minutes. Swish ad remove. Repeat until solvent remains clear. Lay on a paper towel to dry. They should spin freely and quietly on a pencil point etc. Add one small drop of the Bantam oil that came with the reel and reinstall.

lol No, but I suspect some are much more careless than I might be . But I suppose if it's a "Replacement" program as opposed to a "warranty" they probably don't care how it happened. In my mind I differentiate between the two. Still not a selling point for me personally, but people must like the idea or the manufacturers wouldn't keep doing it.

Sensitivity is a function of the weight to stiffness ratio of the blank. Keeping the added weight to a minimum merely helps the blank retain as much of it's original properties as possible. Weighing down a quality blank with junk components makes no sense at all, and at the same time you ca get the most out of a cheaper blank by keeping it as light as possible within reason.

You're not flushing the whole reel, just the bearings. A complete deep cleaning is <$20 for members here. What kind of reel are we talking about?

It depends on the circumstance I think. My egg analogy was admittedly over the top for effect. A company's sales levels would obviously pay a big role as the more rods the cost is spread amongst the lesser the effect on individual price. It's more of the principle to me. Whether it's $20 or $200, I don't like paying for something I don't need and more so for other's to abuse the system. We've all heard the stories. At the end of the day I won't pay for extended warranties on anything and give warrantee no weight at all in a fishing rod purchase.

You'll need to pay attention with either action rod when you have a fish on a short line. If they make a last surge, give them some room and avoid high-sticking. The durability of either should be fine and any defect will make itself known the first couple times you load the rod. After that, user error comes into play. As for swinging fish, it's a practice I discourage for sake of both the rod and the fish, but if you must just keep the rod as parallel as possible to the water and you'll be surprised at the dead-lift capacity of most rods.

It's basically first come first served, but I get reels from all over the country and do my best to accommodate. If you're waiting patiently for reels to be serviced, thank you, and rest assured I'm working OT to get everyone back on the water ASAP. Thank you for the continuing support and kind words. Mike