Delaware Valley Tackle
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Everything posted by Delaware Valley Tackle
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Pretty much same deal as the curado thread below.
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Unless you want to jam the butt into your waist and pull with the fore grip, there's no functionality. It's all preference. I never build a bass rod with a fore grip anymore unless expressly requested.
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You don't see two small screws in the back side of the handle either? They may be obstructed by the drag star but there's got to be something. Either way, I wouldn't go too far without the schematic. You'll have to get one from BPS's Outdoor World service center. The only one's online are the pre BPS original Brownings. That will answer all the questions.
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St Croix Rods tend to fish a little heavier power wise than similarly labeled rods from other makers. Labels and subjective ratings aside, an apples to apples comparison between the two makers would come down to personal preference, and of course price.
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I've heard guys say they tweak the line tie on cranks to get them to run right/left. The theory has merit imo, but this attempt to implement it may not have hit the mark 100%.
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If you have the right bait and retrieve the fish will eat it well enough to hook themselves for the most part unless the hooks are dull. Also, Moderate & Soft actions are not the same thing. To each his own, but this is not something I'd recommend to a client looking for a deep cranking rod.
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If you had the tip held high when the fish dove hard that can certainly contribute. If a rod breaks after first couple times its really loaded, there are undeniably factors at play beyond defect. Good that they're taking care of you.
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I sold mine to a Tournament angler that didn't have time to wait for a new build. I'll post when I get a new one done. It will likely be XH/Mod-F, spiral wrapped, Carbon Fiber grip, with a Gen 2 STX mounted.
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Thanks guys. I'm here as a Member and fellow angler #1 and a Sponsor #2. Glenn deserves a lot of credit not only for the quality of the forum but the way he does business, which has created the atmosphere where this is possible. The moderators do an awesome job as well. It's my pleasure and honor to be here in both aspects. Thank you for your support.
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These "Old Greenies" as they are affectionately called are absolute tanks durability wise. Condition is a valid concern in any second hand purchase, but if the reel is in Good-NIB condition they go for $50-$65 regularly. Properly cleaned and lubed, they perform well and will last as long as you want. Super Tuned, they'll cast right up there with a lot of new stuff.
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Instead of preconceived degrees of transition try this: put a double foot 6 20 in. From the reel then the tip top at 180. Run line through those two. put a size 5 at the 180 intersect and at other line/blank intersects using normal guide spacing. Static test for running guides.
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Tip tops are sold in tune sizes by 64ths inch or mm and blanks vary slightly so best option is to measure the tip if you have a way to. The Fuji repair kit comes with three common sizes for a few bucks. If Abu will supply one go ahead.
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Don't attempt to open a reel without a schematic first off. Not sure what's hanging up the spool but don't force it. If there are no screws on the back side of the handle tighten down the drag star and see if there's a spring loaded plate under the handle. If so depress the plate and spin the handle in reverse at the same time and the handle will unscrew from the shaft. This may not be the ideal model to wet your feet on.
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I feel a Revolver style layout allows the line the most natural line path and may cast a hair better but it's still an ancillary benefit after torque and weight savings . I lean toward a simple spiral on heavier pitch and flip rods that will likely encounter more pressure and stress on the guides.
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You should be prepared to fish whatever depth you find them at: Top / suspended / bottom. The examples in this post are a good start.
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Just lengthen the leader to account for the angle of the line and keep the bait up off the bottom.
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The CXX abrasion resistance is said to be good . If fishing mostly open water 10% Suffix Elite will do fine and handle better.
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7'-7'6" Hvy/F 6 or 7:x reel of your choice spooled with 50# braid to a 3/4 oz barrel weight, bead, quality swivel, 18-24" of 12# fluoro or heavier for added abrasion resistance, ending with a 3-0 J bend worm hook and a purple floating lizard.
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In as far as the dual trigger, it sets them apart visually, but in actual use I don't see any advantage at all. If you're one that likes to palm a reel the front trigger may factor in there somewhere for a more sure grip punching mats or something. If the recent past Wright-McGill rods are any indication I'll pass. I don't care for the whippy actions I see on store models.
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Rather than dissect that one line, maybe sharing what you're looking for in a line and application will get you more useful feedback and suggestions. For instance, there was another recent thread about the myth of reduced line stretch of fluoro. If that's a main concern you may want to look at braid.
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You may have won the battle, but you'll lose the war. Keep fighting the good fight though. lol
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Using a sanding block helps a lot shaping dissimilar materials.
