Delaware Valley Tackle

For a few repairs the cost of a drier motor could be more than have a shop do the repairs. I started out turning by hand and glad I did. While it's admittedly tedious, it works and lets you see first hand how epoxy behaves throughout the curing process. If you're dead set on buying one, Mudhole is as good as any.

If the dimensions and braking systems attachments are the same it will work. Lew's, ABU, Pflueger, PQ and others are all built in the same factory and share a majority of tooling and interchangeable parts. Measuring and experimenting are the only way to know for sure which parts of which models retrofit. Another thing to check is where the spool shaft rides in the pinion. If they don't match, a sloppy fit can wear the gear set over time.

Ideally, a frog rod has some tip and will cast well, and a punch rod will be all power with a Mod-fast action. For dual use, I get a good frog rod and limit the punching to whatever weight it can handle.

Ya those are a handful. spinning reel ARs and bails can be tricky.

More importantly, run a Q-tip around each guide ring feeling for catches or burrs that may damage line. Check your reel seat nut / hood too.

The BPS Pro Qualifier is about the only store label reel I regularly recommend along with some past Cabela's special run Daiwas.

Toss out labels like M / MH etc. They're subjective and don't mean much in the big picture. If you're casting short to targets in heavy cover a rod rated for 1/4-3/4 or so should work fine. If you want to cast small jigs and plastics some distance, a rod with a lower lure weight range surrounding 1/4 will likely load and cast better. A number of modern blanks combine the tip to cast well with impressive power in the butt to fight fish. If you fully palm your reel, it's sitting right at the fulcrum point and should have very minimal affect on feel / balance except for in overall weight.

Developing a new skill like skip casting a bait-caster is part of the fun, but when I'm out to flat out catch some I don't see any advantage in forcing the issue as far as tackle choice. I don't care about ultra-finesse bait-casting, skipping with casting tackle, or punching with spinning tackle at these times. I grab for the setup I personally find best suited, easiest to use for the immediate task. Once I've got it out of my system, I'll experiment with techniques, tackle and baits. I don't go out of my way to add frustration (even though it's inevitable sometimes) to what should be relaxing and fun.

It's totally about preference of features. Ideally, the lighter reel would have dual braking making it a no brainer for me personally, but it's either / or here. Pick your poison.

Check a local fly shop. I picked up a modular back/chest pack. Simar to the sling pack except the most used stuff is handy right in the front compartments.

Yes, I've worked on all those models before. Having a solid spool shaft design they each benefit from Super Tuning.

You bet.

Cleaning Service is $19.80 for members here ($22-10%). Shipping is extra (postage only). On three reels I'd guess $8 +/- depending on where you are.

It depends on the reel and the deal. Plus, a serviced reel in good condition will outperform a new one right out of the box. If you're ever unsure, contact me before sending reels. My refusal to "oversell" is a main tenant of my business philosophy. Thank you everyone else for your kind words.

A lot of people just chuck the brake shoes from the old two pin models. With the non-disengaging level wind spool speeds aren't all that fast anyway. A little thumb is all you need.

The extra shims I presume are intended to compensate for minor deviations in tolerance and maybe wear over time.

I like EVA. I don't think it cheapens a rod at all if done well.

What he means is that St Croix blanks are available to custom builders. Prices vary by builder and build specifics. Email me if you'd like a quote on something.

Independent shops are actually a better source for discontinued reel parts. Shimano themselves have steered me in that direction.

Don't feel bad. I didn't go anywhere and sometimes lose stuff I had in my hand 30 seconds ago! lol

A single click intermittently? Look at the level wind for any type of contamination or obstruction. If can't see anything but notice the sound at the same spot on the level wind have the reel serviced and inspected for a defective or damaged worm gear and/ or pawl.

A size 4.5 guide works very well on a spinning rod. The more finesse the rod, the greater the advantage of "micro" guides. On a $100 rod you won't likely get the weight savings of titanium, but you can find them with Micro guides or "ring-less" guides to save significant weight.

You've got all the bases covered for all the basic bass fishing presentations. I'd throw the spinner baits with the jig rod though. Some guys like the Mod action for spinners but I don't. If you want to add a technique specific setups where to start depends on the cover in your area. Maybe a heavy flipping/ punch rig or a Frog Rod that could do double duty. Another tatula or a Citica / BPS Pro Qualifier are sturdy reels that won't break the bank. Probably a Heavy / Fast (3/4-1oz) rod.

I like them best on a plain 1/8 ball head jig or swim jig. The short shank lets the tail really swim. They'll catch on a swimbait hook but more like any other plastic would.

I agree with your opening comments on the Core. The new Chronarch Ci4 is very close though in smoothness. Reliability wise, only time will tell. I have little doubt reliability will be acceptable, but some of the hardware etc. has been cheapened.