Delaware Valley Tackle

I don't recommend gear swaps unless a model is not available in a certain speed, like putting 7:1 Core gears in a 50E. In the case of the Lew's, I'd suggest just buying the faster reel. On top of that 21" IPT isn't all that slow for cranks.

Of all the things to change on a spinning reel to claim innovation, a flimsy looking frame stem isn't the way I'd go myself. It may be perfectly rigid in application, but the look of the design would cause many to gloss right over the entire thing imo.

Outside of the spawn when the bass seek out gravel hard bottoms, I concentrate on the edges where two bottom compositions meet. Sometimes this works like a weed edge or shade line etc. Beyond that I think it depends on where the bait is. If the primary forage is seeking one type of bottom for some reason I'd expect the bass to follow the bait, not necessarily attracted by the bottom composition alone.

The community here is unique in it's own right, and darn near unheard of among forums.

Sweet. I built a custom 765 version currently matched with a Gen 2 Winch

The rod builder in me makes me think you'd need a spinning guide to equal the height of the line guide coming off the reel. There will always be an angle to some degree but we design to minimize it. A little experimenting with each rod/ reel / line combo can help fine tuning for sure.

There's much more to it than simply graphite vs glass. The Lami blank will fish very well if it's anything like the ones I've used. A glass rod is not necessarily lacking in sensitivity. For long casting, deep cranking I like the old SR 705. Sensitive enough to feel the lure vibrate and powerful enough to move the fish away from cover if need be. For mid to shallow cranks I prefer a faster action - Mod Fast usually a graphite or blend model. The faster action makes popping off weeds and steering around cover a little easier. At the end of the day, I suggest you look for the power and action you want and put less emphasis on what construction method is used to achieve the result.

I've looked at them but there are other brands just as light when comparing dimensions and specs. This doesn't tell the whole story, you have to handle and hopefully fish a blank to know for sure but I can't justify the double price in my mind.

Just call them.

I regularly receive reels for service that are so overfilled I have to strip line off to get the spool out of the frame. That would be above the second lip.

Spinner baits and heavier topwaters and jerkbaits come to mind. Maybe a fluke or swim jig or skipping rod depending on your definition of "stout".

My thoughts exactly. A heavy Neko rig, sort of like bubba-shotting

50-65# braid should be very manageable. I heard of guys using 90# braid on A rigs (overkill imo) don't worry about damaging the rig with braid. Braid is the way I'd go. If I were to consider an alternative it would probably be a hybrid with 20# breaking strength.

Yup. The reason a lot of two piece rods feel dead is because they are low quality blanks in general aimed at the casual angler. Fly rods have come is 2-4 pieces for years and exhibit excellent sensitivity, power and durability from quality blanks. False casting a 9' rod and fighting a steelhead will be a lot tougher on a blank than the average pitch and reeling in of a bass.

Why remove a feature that you paid for though, redundant or not? They aren't that hard to adjust and maintain properly.

You're safe. Modern braids and guides are safe together except for the very lowest quality. As mentioned above, it is the contaminants that are abrasive and not the braid itself.

Ya it's weird. Only thing I can think of is that the corn looks like eggs floating down stream kinda like beads.

The videos available on line range from OK to practically useless. Just remember to pay attention to your specific reel. I have yet to see one that details what a paid service provides too, so again, use a schematic and your own aptitude to do the job right. Pick the seals off your bearings with a needle point and junk them. The chances of getting them off and back on without them rubbing is low. Clean the the way you would any other bearing and let them dry. That's it. Grease and oil the rest of the appropriately.

I struggle with the concept floated regularly, that bass need more time to eat a bait or that we are pulling the bait away from them. All my sight fishing experiences have led me to conclude just the opposite, that there are a lot more takes happening that we are never aware of. There are pros and cons to different line types, but really don't fell this is one of them.

Ya, too bad that boat's sailed. The list in the OP are all decent reels and I'd add the Tatula to list. They can be found at ridiculous low prices online.

OPen water, deep cranking I'd go with the XL for better line handling and casting. 10# should work. I have Suffix Elite spooled up on a Winch and like that as well.

Short answer is yes. But what reels and to what degree parts will retrofit needs to be researched in each case.

Your problem isn't with the roller clutch / AR. It's most likely the redundant AR dog. The ears should be pinched together to lightly grab the ratchet, then installed onto the post. If you continue to have trouble send it in and I'll take care of it.

A modern two piece blank has built in ferrules. No need to add them. You can epoxy the pieces together or just slide them together and leave them that way. There's nothing to be gained really. Your call.

Be careful dipping reel parts as they may not fit back together afterward. Tape off threads, screw holes etc. My guess would be enamel and clear coat are what's usually used. Then there's the stripping of the reel. You may want that done for you with a deep cleaning while it's apart. Brake adjustment dials can be tricky. Just give this some thought before jumping in with both feet.