Delaware Valley Tackle

Contrary to what you first imagine a tuned reel will backlash less because the spool starts up more easily with less force. I'm not making any of the wild claims some do but I think on solid spool shaft reels the extra $12 for super tuning ($34 including clean n lube) is a reasonable investment. The biggest advantage is proved accuracy from easier casting. I'm happy to discuss individual circumstances if you pm email or call. Remember members here get 10% off labor too.

A tip top is easy to replace. There's a recent thread right here in the forum. Otherwise it's a $5-$7 fix at a tackle or rod shop.

Electrical tape works well. I cut a 3" or so strip and wrap it around the spooled line.

If it's a high end rod it mat be worth having done professionally should you decide to sell it down the road. Just for personal use a slightly crooked guide is really more cosmetic than anything else.

I've fixed them in the past. They are a little tricky to get lined up right and the magnets need to oriented correctly to match the adjustment dial.

It's just a purse.

Yes. I'd order a new friction ring right from Shiamno

FWIW, take out the emergency paddle and try paddling that thing into even a light breeze. Not fun.

Awesome find. Hopefully the other guys wife didn't sell the wrong tool on him. I had some old aluminum arrows to go in a garage sale once and while I was away fishing a tx my wife laid out a dozen carbon arrows and sold them for like $20, field points and all. I still razz her on that one.

Ya, I here you. Those rings are the culprit of the old binding when wet syndrome. Seems like the next generation didn't swell up but disintegrated over not so long of a time. The current rings appear to be a nylon of some sort and should be pretty long lasting. You're right though that they have been good reels right along. By far my favorite spinners to service with the enclosed AR assembly. Let me know if you need anything.

Awesome catch Capt. A snook / redfish trip is on my bucket list.

I have heard a few complaints about the line slipping up into the T usually when flipping. Every level wind touches the line so line wear isn't a factor to be concerned with. My guess is that you hold a finger under the line and/or the spool is really full causing the line to be lifted up into the T. I can see the logic and theory behind the T wing design, but still maintain that the good casting is more attributable to Daiwa's overall design and quality. It may just not be the reel for you.

Yes, a sturdy reel with appropriate line capacity will serve well in both applications and are available in round and low profile styles. The Curado 300E is another low pro that would fit the bill and I'm sure there are others. An Ambassadeur round reel will do well and can be had at very reasonable prices.

Replacing the friction ring will likely resolve your issue. The newer ones are a different material and should last with the rest of the reel. The reel is fishable with out it in the mean time, but the handle may creep forward or back if you don't have a hand on it.

1/2 oz bait should load that rod well enough. The advice given above is all prudent. My guess is that there is a setup/adjustment issue somewhere. Once you get it dialed in and get some practice a good cleaning will put the icing on the cake.

The premier is a nice small profile reel. $200 is a good sale price. Unless you're deep cranking (18'>) the 6:1 should work fine. I prefer a lower IPT like the Winch for big, deep running cranks with lots of resistance.

Louisiana Redfish looks like a blast.

I never miss Unforgiven. Watched it 20 times at least and still love it. Lots of other classics already mentioned. Blazing Saddles is a good one but I just love the Airplane & Police Squad movies.

To begin with, there are no industry standards for what constitutes a M/MH/H or Fast/Mod F....... it's all subjective. Any given rod will have an ideal weight that will load the blank for maximum casting efficiency and a range on either end. The sweet spot usually falls somewhere in the middle of the labeled range but only experience will tell for sure. A lot of anglers prefer spinning tackle for lighter baits <1/2 oz or so leading to the popularity of heavier casting rods. A fast taper rod will often cast well and still posses enough power in the butt section to fight large fish or get them out of heavy cover. It's a balancing act that rod builders both, production and custom do when designing rods for certain applications. I've built casting rods on everything from light to xxHvy blanks

Perfect. We fish the Salmon River here in NY but it's a 2hr ride for me.

The Raw II is worth the extra $30 IMO. The discontinued Sheffield is a good way to go if you can find one. Either way, an Okuma is the way to go for an entry into Pin Reels. Centre Pin fishing is a specialized application tackle system that just can not be beat for drag free, natural drift fishing, but it's limited pretty much to that. I'll use mine for a float and fly presentation on lakes especially if there's some wind. Other that that it's strictly a current setup for creeks and rivers.

I read too with no trouble. The problem is just that, cursive is being phased out. In another generation no one will be able to read old letters from great grandparents etc. not to mention the founding documents. I miss them being little, but I'm glad my kids are out of school. This stuff makes my head want to explode.

The Dream Reamers are gold when it comes to fitting grips. I'll use either the handle or chuck them into a drill.

There in lies the problem: Only you know what is great feeling in your hands. Everyone else will have their own opinion but that won't really help you. The bait list should help some but if you can add what weights/sizes you'll throw I think you'll get more specific suggestions. JFrancho has a good point about the fast tapers. You may just need to go down a power in your choices.

How heavy of baits and what type of cover? I'd be looking for a modestly priced M or MH / Mod. Fast rod for the traps and a higher end second hand M or MH / F for the plastics. If you have to have one rod, a MH/F is pretty versatile.