Delaware Valley Tackle

What broke, the hood nut?

I’ll happy to help if you’d like. If you decide to go the diy route I’ll answer questions for you. Spinning a gritty or dry bearing under power is a horrible idea.

I was referring to the assembly as a whole. Technically, yes you can lose the clip (bnt2024) and use the reel.

It’s also a spacer for the spool bearing. You need to keep it in place.

I’m left you pricing and my phone number. Always glad to talk with folks.

You should be ok temporarily but prompt repair is always the best course of action to avoid complicating matters

I have a local guy that chews up AR clutches snapping big heavy pike lures with an SLX and Tatula. You can beat the end of season rush if you want to send them in next few weeks

Sorry I couldn’t chime in beforehand but you chose well. Goo gone I believe may eat into some grip materials.

This is hands down the most over thought topic on fishing forums. I say all the time, there is no magic in lubricants and reels are not a comparatively demanding application.

I’ve seen Oust in stores, Remoil, 3in1, even sewing machine oil from the craft/sewing section. Boca Lightning lube is good and affordable if you want to order something.

Just go on the fish shimano parts site and get a bottle of the bantam bearing oil or grab any readily available light oil. You don’t need anything eccentric or specialized.

Tip tops are sized by ring/tube. Ring in mm of frame ID and tube in 64ths of an inch. Don’t ask me why. Sellers may offer mm conversion for tube size. Measure the tip 1/8-1/4” from the end to account for taper using calipers. Do not twist the top in efforts to remove it. Use heat sparingly.

And to expand on Micks point, there models within brands that stand out and others not so much. You’re doing yourself a disservice by limiting yourself to one brand.

I guess I misunderstood or read in when will k posted “I’ve never used epoxy, only thread wraps”. Only was probably “on” after auto correct now that I think about it.

That’s right but they always used thread, with a handful of exceptions on low cost rods that used tape or something else.

What are you saying? All guides are wrapped on using thread and epoxy finish over the thread to protect the wraps.

I strongly discourage this technique due to the unnecessary stress it puts on critical parts.

I don’t love one rod for both of those applications. To load and cast an A rig I’d look at more of a swimbait rod and for punching an xh or xxh flipping stick with a stiff, mod fast action

It was a while back, but at the time BPS fluoro scored well in a shootout by Tackle Tour. I don’t take their opinions as gospel but that’s all I’ve got.

In any scenario, the rod does the casting

Why the large reel? Is the idea to manage the line with the larger spool? If you’re going braid a 2500 is plenty large.

There is no direct and consistent correlation between blank cost and over the counter equivalent. Don’t even waste your time trying to get your head around that train of thought.

Broad stroke, med to high modulus, med Hvy to Hvy, fast action. Specifically, depends on cover, fish and budget.

The Tatulas are not typically a silent running reel especially after some use. I can’t speak to the sounds from your particular reel without seeing it. Deep cleaning and lubrication will remedy a lot of ills. Send it in at your convenience if you’d like.

The level wind or bail and oscillation should lay line smoothly and feeding off the bottom of the filler spool will avoid line twist