Delaware Valley Tackle

Cleaning/repair service is $26.95 plus shipping and parts if needed. That’s a frame of deep clean, part inspection, lubrication and reassembly. Any other questions please let me know.

I agree that this isn’t brain surgery, but it’s not for everyone either. I can assure you, changing bearings or anything else until after a deep cleaning is grasping at straws and a waste of time and money more often than not. The number one piece for successful DIY is confidence that you can do it. Not sure if that’s the case just from reading here. I’m happy to assist either way.

After a yr of use it’s time for a deep cleaning. The SLX is a quality reel but not a refined reel. It won’t be 100% silent and buttery smooth forever, if ever. Regular maintenance will make it best it can be.

The Boca oil is good. It’s my standard for service. 321 is what I use in SuperTuned reels and best for your application. A bottle will last you 3 lifetimes. The Boca oil will work though. Don’t be afraid of it if it’s handy.

I see these listed for $20-$50 with $30 the average. Obviously they’re not refined due to the age but solid. If you put $50 into one I expect you’ll have a solid useable reel.

The SLX is a good value. Model descriptions available on Shimano’s site

Use a swab and alcohol to clean the drum and tabs. Just a film of light oil like you use on spool bearings helps keep them quiet.

I just had one of those here. Sweet little reel. Enjoy

If you’re intimidated by the prospect of opening a spinning reel try the following: remove the spool, handle and side cap/screw. Oil the bearings behind the the handle and cap. Drop some oil on the main shaft into the pinion. Oil the line roller and bail hinges. If you’re lucky this will keep it going at least for a while. I’d avoid any more rinsing/dunking.

Lol. I’m sure.

Hey folks, I’ve got a package from M Chosser with no paperwork in the box and can’t for the life of me find any communications. If you see this or know them please please let me know. Thanks!

If wind knots are the sole determining factor, for sure. Every line choice is a trade off. Light braid mainline on spinning tackle is my personal preference for overall line management, casting and lack of stretch.

Braid not twisting is a misconception. It just doesn’t suffer as much and is easier handling with twist. It still must be managed. Swivels where appropriate, well functioning roller guide, minimize slack and loops, full but not overfilled spool, manual bail operation and regular trolling out to remove twist.

If they are different viscosities all you could lose is the benefit of the lighter oil if you need it. It’s not going to react or hurt anything.

Possibly, take it apart and do it right. It won’t fix itself. Using two wrenches, hold the shaft and tighten the nut ( don’t over do it). This creates the space for the assembly to seat properly.

This is a really loaded question. It depends on comparing apples to apples, defining what a “better” rod is and applying value to the higher price. There have been advancements in blank materials, resins, mandrels, guides and other components. It all works together. The advancements over the past 10yrs have been real but not leaps and bounds. The value of those advancements is an individual decision.

There is a trick. Square the click plate to the recess in the star, tighten the drag nut square to the shaft. Things should line up and fall into place with a little effort. Just don’t force anything.

You’re right across the board.

I’m feelin’ some pressure… lol

This is unique to certain Daiwa’s it’s the idler gear for the level wind which is under the ratchet in most models These are case by case issues with no one common cause. I can say with certainty though that spool tension is not one of them. The internet is a wonderful tool and source but there are pitfalls

I like the Kevlar tubing. I had a TN handle ML drop shot rod built with one. Everyone who saw it or tried it like it so much I caved and sold it.

I’m here for the long haul. Thank you for the opportunity.

With all due respect I m aware of the site, magazine and individual, and your quote is not 100% accurate and lacking context. Finish epoxy is a self leveling resin and not an adhesive. I have a link to that discussion but choose not to redirect people from here.

This is where I draw the line between warranty and replacement program, two different things in my book. I’d be send emails, calling, going up the food chain until the got satisfaction. No ray I’d spend a dime on a failure like that.

That is 100% a warranty issue. They should replace that regardless of age, receipts etc.