Delaware Valley Tackle

A 1/2 spinner plus blades, skirt and maybe trailer is well within the lure range posted. It would handle the 3/4 too. 3/4 is the most versatile imo. Check Glenn’s article in the library.

Big spinner baits, C-rig, frogs

The magic eraser is great on cork or for light scrubbing but they are an abrasive. Avoid them on painted or gloss surfaces. Simple green is a safe and effective cleaner. WD 40 has solvent and will clean greasy stubborn spots. For something less oily use denatured alcohol. Like mick said don’t submerge reel seats for long periods.

Can’t vouch for the Kistler comparison but the elite Pro is a good blank. I use a lot of MHX blanks and have been very pleased. Their labeled casting weight and actions while subjective as always, have been what most would expect imo.

My bet is something environmental in the fishing area, zebra mussels for example. I have to agree that the problem existing across rods pretty much rules that out.

You have enough budget for a custom. If you want to explore options I’m happy to talk with you.

If your drag is set I don’t see a scenario where quick disengagement is essential. To each his own though. There are no absolutes in these things.

Set the drag and go fishin

Use the smallest, lightest guides that will pass connections and stand up to the use. This preserves the blanks inherent qualities. Quality guides are more corrosion resistant. Titanium is best choice for salt water if budget allows. Fuji Alconite are my go to. High quality reasonable price.

Thanks Bud I’m glad you’re pleased with the work.

The President was hands down the best bang for the buck spinning reel but the competition has tightened the last few years. It’s still a good value though.

Content creators be they you tubers or sponsored pros sometimes struggle to find something relevant to say and knowingly or unknowingly push the limits in their efforts. I like Tactical Bassin but that point is a bit of blah blah blah. AJ hit the nail on the head.

According to the listing on Get Bit the Rx6 equivalent is sb842. I think you’d find the MHx just a touch lighter tip and maybe a little faster. They’re both good blanks and should work for your application. Weight and dimensions are almost identical.

I won’t say I avoid NFC , but they are not a go to for me.

So little of my hand contacts the actual grip most of the time, grips are largely driven by aesthetics and definitely shape for those other instances. The portion where the grip sits is least critical as far as weight goes and the different materials aren’t worlds apart in the weight department. The best of all worlds imo are the AmTack G3 carbon tube grip followed by cork for specific size/shape applications.

Buy once , cry once either way buying junk isn’t economical in the long run. If you’re on a budget and need both I’d skew the budget toward the rod. Budget allows, a quality reel will last two lifetimes and likely multiple rods

The part that annoys me is a skipped step in manufacturing being sold to me as some kind of tech breakthrough and advantage. Raw blanks used to be sold on clearance for discount.

It really depends on what, where , and how you’re fishing. Lure weight range to load and cast the bait, power to land them in the cover. Action, faster for bottom contact, single hook, more moderate for trebles. Length: longer for casting distance and shorter for accuracy.

Save your time mixing oil in with grease. Your grease will provide corrosion protection, probably beyond what the oil will do.

Anytime, I’m here.

Braid is safe for modern guides and reels. People have preferences but you don’t need technique specific reels as a rule.

Feel free to contact me here, email or phone with any questions or concerns.

Moving baits with heavy hooks like blades and spinners get thrown on the same rods as jigs n plastics of similar weight. For me that is.

Whether or not a rod is a broomstick is more about power than action. The difference between fast and XF isn’t night and day in most cases. You have your drag to help here too.

Could be something not seated quite right. Impossible to diagnose sight unseen. I don’t buy the gear tooth alignment theory at all. Touching parts won’t disturb grease to cause symptoms. I can’t say definitively what it is but assure you it isn’t any of these