Delaware Valley Tackle

This is much debated, for the most part it's personal preference. Keep in mind that IPT (inches per Turn of the crank handle) is the real measurement and may not correlate directly to ratio. You can't go too far wrong with either of the choices in the OP

If you go with a BPS reel stick with the Pro Qualifier, Shimano with the Citica. They're user friendly reels that will last and you won't "out grow" them as you get better at casting. To limit bird nests pull off a liitle more than a full cast worth of line and run a strip of tape across the line and rewind. When you do backlash it won't go any deeper than the tape. Check out one of the many baitcaster setup articles and videos to be sure your adjustments are correct when you start. Good luck!

The only way to know for sure is tear it down. I'd be looking for missing yoke springs, work kick lever, gummed up clutch parts etc. If you have confidence to disassemble and reassemble just make sure you have a schematic and take a full part inventory as you go. Skip Mike's and order direct from ABU. I'm happy to all through it too if you'd like - $16.20 plus parts and shipping

Right, the drag should be adjusted to the line weight/strength which won't change mid-fight. Also, rear drags are difficult to service.

On any rod 90% of blank failures are the result of handling in one form or another. Protect the blank from impact with boat cleats and flopping jigs or weights etc which can compromise the fibers and avoid bending the tip beyond 90* to the butt by high sticking etc..

The Lamiglas model with the R designation is their "Ripping" model. I fish a custom on the same blank. It casts a mile, has plenty of backbone to horse fish out of cover if need be, sensitive enough to feel the vibration of the bait and enough forgiveness to get and keep them hooked up. For fishing traps across the top of the weeds I go with a faster graphite rod more similar to a spinnerbait rod.

Looking at the size of the gap compared to the tube on the top, it might go on further but poses no performance or durability problem as is. Sometimes the hot melt glue doesn't like being reheated and the bond suffers slightly so I try not to mess with it if not necessary. If it just drives you crazy because it's not 100% (a lot of us are like that)go for it.

I work on a lot of the PQ baitcasters and they're built decently sharing a lot of parts and tooling with Pure Fishing products. I'm not as familiar with the spinning models. The Pflueger President is a great bang for the buck ($59.95) apply the $10 coupon and you're only $9 off the PQ and know what you're getting. If you're curious about the PQ I don't doubt you'll get at least $40 worth out of it.

There is nothing for a tip-top to seat against. It appears as though there is a trim wrap that stopped a few threads short. It's just esthetic, nothing to worry about. I don't wrap or epoxy tip tops as a rule, as it makes replacement more difficult if necessary.

In that case, I'd stick with with the Avid and if you still want to try a Revo, go one more step to the STX. The added features are well worth the few extra $.

If you're building an arsenal, add a deep cranking setup: You want to try a Revo, pick up a Revo Winch Pair it with a MH/Mod action rod: Lamiglas XCF 705, St Croix Avid Cranking

Here's some more thoughts: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/jig_worm_tube.html

A MH/F is probably the most versatile rod for bass fishing. A little over kill for walleye in open water but appreciated in getting big fish out of cover.

Right. That's what I was saying. If you switched to a reel with a shorter foot than the President (great reel by the way) you have enough threads to tighten down on it.

X2 This dead on. I just wrote an article for the local paper saying the same thing.

It depends on whether another models left hand gears will fit in the case. I would suspect it's possible but would have to research a little to be sure.

No problem at all. All that means is that a reel with shorter reel feet will still fit.

Both are good quality reels, they just have different features. Same a Revo SX or STX : same quality, different features. In the Shimano case, the features vary very slightly.

Are these identical reels? If one feels much differently than the other, it may be a sign of a problem. Application wise, there is probably no difference in preventing a bait, but if the rougher one does have a problem, use at all or heavy use may shorten the life span.

100% denatured alcohol would not hurt your reel but like POPRG said, the reel needs to be disassembled to be cleaned properly. Acetone is a better solvent for the bearings but you definetely don't want that to contact any plastic. You shouldn't need to clean the the reel after a weekend worth of use unless you're having problems. If you have symptoms post them I'll try to point you in the right direction. An annual cleaning should be sufficient in most cases with oiling of the bearings every 4 trips or so.

No problem, let me know if you need anything. If you have questions over the weekend, best to email for a quicker response. Mike

If gas and oil leaked into your reel you need to tear it down or have it done. I get $18 ea plus postage and parts if needed. Members get 10% off labor and after market parts. Did the cast control work immediately before disassembly? You may have deeper contamination.

I just re-read your OP. What exactly did you clean and lube and with what? The cast control only needs a light film of grease.

Give the spring a twist to be sure it is seated completely. If it's not, the cap can't tighten down all the way. If that doesn't work, you lost a spacer.

There is nothing wrong with keeping of giving away the occasional legal fish. My annoyance is with the greedy that decimate fishing holes with blatant disregard for laws, regulations and sportsmanship