Delaware Valley Tackle

Look for a post from Roadwarrior re: pond fishing. It's a good starting point. Basically slowly drag a senko and fat Ika along the bottom parallel to the bank at increasing depths. If no bites come after coving it well, look for new water.

Think of it like throwing a ball. The release point dictatesthe direction of the throw. Start easy and don't over power your casts(throws) the distance will come.

ABU Ambassadeur 5000 followed shortly by a Shimano Bantam (80's Black one)

If there's weeds and fish hitting frogs already the bite must be turning on. The weather sure can't hurt. I hav family in the area and hope to do some fishing up there soon.

Sounds like the same thing as a Silver Buddy which goes along nicely with suspending jerkbaits in the early season

I'm running 10# mono but I'll be trying a co-poly in the same strength and slightly lower diameter. The goal is to maximize diving depth.

Factory bearings are way over lubed, I think in anticipation that many buyers will never give them any attention. That should always be the first step. You can always go further if you feel the need or desire. Spinning reels in general are largely neglected. I probably get 10 baitcasters for every spinning reel for regular service. The ratio on repairs though is much closer.

Sure, RW sent me some E series Curados to be Super Tuned. After being stripped to the frame and deep cleaned, the inside of the pinion gear, the spool shaft ends and the part of the shaft that the pinion rides on are polished in a three step progressive system resulting in a mirror like finish on those parts. The brake drum is polished as well. Bearings are flushed and spin tested. At that point they can be reinstalled as is, treated and reinstalled or rplaced with an upgrade. In this case, I beleive a bearing upgrade was pre- determined if I remember correctly. When upgrading bearings I usually go right to the ABEC 7 Boca Orange Seal Ceramic Hybrids, run open. I highly recommend the Carbontex Drag upgrade as well. This is a relatively inexpensive upgrade running $8-10 per reel in most cases. If RW has had a chance to fish any of the reels yet he may give his impressions.

It's all relative. A tuned reel will be more free than a stocker with all the brakes off. A tuned reel is more adjustable because it starts up easier and the brakes are smoother and stronger after the drum is polished. Also, because the reel will start easier, in the case of centrifugal brakes, they won't come on as strongly. As far as bearings go, simply flushing and oiling stockers will improve most reeels. Simply dropping in ceramics may or may not help in varying degrees depending on the condition of the stock ones and the quality of the new ones. Typically, I evaluate each reel individually and then make recommendations.

The advantages that can be expected from Super Tuning depend on the design, and condition of the reel and casting ability. The advantage of the added free spool capability is that it requires less effort to cast which aids accuracy. Improved casting distance can be achieved as well but is secondary IMO. Brakes are still used and in fact work better if the tuning is done properly. If you are considering Super Tuning I suggest having it done by a pro or at least an experienced hobbyist. It is easy to do more harm than good if you're not careful. My charge for Super Tuning is $28 less a 10% discount for members here.

There's a state park at canal lock 6 north of Waterford. Try cruising N Mohawk St / Crescent Rd out of Cohoes and Canal Rd of Vischers Ferry on the other side. They both skirt the river bank and may offer access to some spots.

When I use up the Moss Green I have I'm going to a HI-Vis

St Croix has this: PS60MHF 6' MH Fast 1 8 - 14 3/8 - 3/4 3.9 4 $ 110

To skip cast? Weighted plastics, T-rig?

The softer braid handles better, but if it's that much better the reel may not have been adjusted properly both times. The braid is fine 90% of the time. You can add a leader (look up Albright knot) in super clear water or where abbrasion is a concern (mussel beds etc).

FWIW, even as a co-angler, the more prep I do, the more I enjoy the tourny. Consider doing a dry run the day prior and check everything. Rolling out of bed and going fishing with no worries is worth the upfront work.

The longer rod will help flipping since you're using a static line length. The longer pendulum probably helps some but not like when fully loading a longer rod. I use the same rod for both and modify the cast depending on the distance to my target. I find 7'6" as a good happy medium and I'm not real tall.

These are all good bait/lure suggestions especially the senko/ika. To maximize whatever bait you use study the detail of the pond for spots that will attract and hold bass. The spots will be much like a bigger lake but may be much more subtle. In a pond, a 6" to 1' depth change can be important. All things are relative. Concentrate on the inlet, outlet and dam or dyke. Weedlines and any islands, points or pockets. Drag a heavy jig or C-rig around the pond feeling for brush, rocks, weeds and channels. Make note of where they are concentrate your casts to these targets.

Too much play will make the reel noisy and probably not cast its best, but I don't see it doing any harm. On the other side, just barely adjusting the side play out probably does'nt restrict free-spool enough to restrict casting. Which ever way your own experience suggests will be fine.

With all due respect, if all the parts are present and installed correctly, the reel would be working correctly. It is likely a small adjustment and difficult to pin down without seeing. Make sure the AR bearing (#63 is seated far enough for the sleeve (#64) to stick out the top slightly. The drag may be pressing on the AR and not the sleeve as intended.

Check to be sure the drag spring washers are oriented correctly. They should face each other like this: () Here is a schematic which everyone should have before opening a reel: http://www.abugarcia.com/sites/default/files/schematics/PROMAX%20%201701.pdf If all the parts are present I'd really need to see the reel to be able to diagnose further.

All good points so far. In addition, make sure your spool is filled to within 1/8" of the spool lip and that the lip is clean. Treating your line with KVD line and lure will help some, even more on heavier fluorocarbon line. These things will help maximize casting distance but the real key is in the rod. Be sure it is rated approriately for the lures/bait you are casting.

I don't know how far you tore the reel down, but it really should be stripped to the frame and checked closely. I do them for $16.20 ea for forum members (regularly $18). To continue DIY, I don't know about those specific parts, but I just got some others for old Curados. Contact Shimano here: Shimano American Corp. 1 Holland Irvine, CA 92618 On site customer support - Irvine office 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday - Friday Pacific Standard Time Customer Service: 877-577-0600 6:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Monday - Friday Pacific Standard Time I've also found discontinued parts here: http://www.fishingreelparts.com/

Welcome to the forums. What did you spool up with? If it was braid and you did not use backing, the braid is slipping on the spool giving the illlusion that the drag is malfunctioning. Wind the braid onto another empty reel. Fill the spool 1/2-2/3 full with cheap mono, connect the braid with an Albright knot and fill to 1/8" from the spool rim with braid. As for the spool tension knob, make sure the shim did knot fall out and that the spring if any is seated completely. Let us know what that does. Email or call me if get stuck. 973-459-2835 Mike

J, you make a good point as usual. I glossed over the "starting out" part of the OP. Over thinking and "analysis paralysis" all too common in this sport.