Delaware Valley Tackle

The redesign was to ensure that there would still be a quality workhorse reel at a pricepoint between the Citica and Chronarch. Also, in regards to the Revo S, there are no material or structural differences that would make the S hold up any less than the SX. Both good reels with different feature sets.

IMO this is a better application for this rod

This is the key right here. Rod ratings are subjective with no industry standard for power and action ratings.

For bass fishing, a 6' custom M/F spinnerbait rod. for accurate casts to targets.

The G series Curado is a perfectly good reel that will perform well and last. Some Features are slightly scaled back from the E series but the differences are relatively minor. The same E series features are still available under the new Chronarch E label.

If they are fast action they'll make good multi-purpose rods. They should be suitable for most any lure in their weight range. Depending on what else you have in your arsenal I'd use the shorter rod for close accurate casting and tip down presentations like top water but the 6'6" certainly isn't too long for those either.

First off, don't open any reel unless you have a schematic in front of you. Quantums are a PIA to disassemble. The nose piece in front of the level wind needs to come. To do that you must remove the support bolt screw and slide the nose piece forward while holding the side plate release open. The release is spring loaded and there is at least a 50/50 chance of loosing it your first time. I believe there is one more screw holding the side plate from the back that you can then access. I highly recommend sending the reel for a thorough cleaning and lube.

Yup, knot tying is a skill that requires some practice, much like casting. As a side note, CA super glues are not waterproof. As a backup adhesive on a knot or plastic bait holder they work fine but epoxies are a better choice for under water adhesive applications.

Zebra Mussels and braid don't mix. A relatively heavy fluoro leader will work in mussel beds. I don't find normal rocks or wood to be especially abbrasive on braid. I think a leader should be at least 18" to have any affect. I usually use 2-3 feetof 15 or 20#. I'm not 100% sold on line visibility. I think line diameter and the vibration put out by it is more important in finesse fishing, but I sometimes throw on a long leader of 8# if the water is gin-clear.

Acetone is the best. It cuts the old lube and leaves no residue. Brake or carb cleaner are largely acetone and you may have them laying around already. The bearings need to come out of the reel. soak them in a small jar swishing them periodically. change the solvent in 5-10 minute intervals until it stays perfectly clear. Lay the bearings on a paper towel to dry. If clean the bearings should spin on the end os a pencil for several seconds fairly quietly. Lube with 1 drop of light oil and reinstall. If you have a bearing on the spool shaft, strip the line and either soak the spool or blast it with a spray solvent until clean and free.

This is very interesting to me as a rod builder. I'm especially curious about the preference for different designs in different applications. Is it just the two handed casting you prefer the full grip for or something else? The original split grips were designed specifically for two handed casting with the butt grip consitently positioning your hand. The distinction between casting and spinning is also interesting. Thanks for aything you care to add here.

Catt, I agree 1000% on the importance of location. Without that bait, color, presentation are all irrelevant. Personal preference is what most of these things come down too really. JF, I see your point as well. I wasn't really thinking in terms of working the bait with a faster reel. Where I really like a high speed reel is casting/ pitching to targets, burning it back and hitting the next one. I fish tournies as a co-angler so I have to adjust to the pace of the person on the trolling motor. Sometimes I have to reel like hell to get a shot at a target before it's out of range.lol

A 30" IPT reel is 11% faster than a 28" IPT. In theory, this could allow you get 10% more casts made in a day of fishing. Those extra casts could get the kicker needed in a tx. That 11% may make the difference in taking up the slack quickly enough to get a hookset on a hawg that swam right at you with a jig in it's mouth. When you look at the cumulative affect over a day of fishing, that 3" could really add up. Whether or not that equates to more fish in the boat or not nobody knows. Either way, the difference isn't big enough to stress over. It comes down to preference.

As long as you can pass your leader and connecting knots, a rod with "micro" guides can used for anywhere you'ld use the rod otherwise. Ice up and filimentous algae are other situations where they may not be ideal. As for durability, if you regularly step on your rods it probably doesn't matter what guides you use.lol The best guide choice for any rod is the smallest, lightest one that will do the job.

Is this price for a new reel? These can be found online for $179-$229. Quantum has some nice design features but also some QC issues. There are a lot of choices in your price range. It's almost hard to go wrong. For a beginner, you may also want to look at a BPS PQ or Shimano Citica.

The price of cork, especially high grade cork is expected to continue to rise. Fortunantely there are several good alternative grip materials and good EVA is one of them.

The Citica is sturdy, simple and user friendly. The PQ has added features, comes in a lot of configurations and often on sale. The Lews gets decent reviews as you said and is similar in design to the PQ. It sounds like this reel won't get a ton of use. You can feel good about taking which ever one you find the best deal on.

That's a nice choice of colors. You can trim off a portion of the threads on the reel seat for an even cleaner look. I believe that's a Pac Bay Minima reel seat.

x2

The answer to your question lies in what your goal is. Just to catch some fish on those few days a year you're fine with what you have. If you want to expand and grow into the sport some more mastering both spinning and baitcasting equipment enhances the overall experience IMO. The STX is a fine reel and will hold up well. As stated, there are lower priced quality reels that will meet your needs if cost is a concern. There are plenty of posts, articles and videos on the site here to get you started. Good luck and enjoy!

Granted most of the bearings in a spinning reel are for smoothness, but a well working line roller reduces line twist and line management is probably the single biggest problem on spinning tackle. I know it's a stretch, but you can make an argument that the better the line lays on the spool the better it will come off as well. JFs point about the importance of the line roller is valid.

Thanks LMG, that's exactly how I look at it. It's a lot like JDM and super high end reels. They won't put more fish in the boat but they are cool and just add a little to the fishing experience as long as you have the budget.

Zack, welcome to the forum. I'm just a little south of you in NEPA. See ya' on the boards!

Pull the spool out and look at the bottom of the pinion gear. If it is turning when you crank the handle, the spool pins are not engaged in the pinion. You may have the yoke upside down preventing the pinion from seating down. The yoke has bevels that match up to the bevels on the clutch.

Any time. I get quite a few reels that guys got online, for anyone interested, you can always have them shipped straight to me and forwarded when done. It saves a shipping charge and gets a reel you know you can use right away. Mike