Delaware Valley Tackle

I doubt the gears are bad from your description. The reel is in need of a full tear down deep cleaning and lubrication. If you have questions or want to send it in contact me.

Typically a dented spool will have a detrimental affect on casting if it’s bad. Free spool suffers and you can feel it. It wouldn’t affect pinion engagement

I’ll be happy to help unless shipping a deal breaker.

Call or email me if I can help

While not the stand alone it used to be the President is still a good bang for the buck. $75-$100 for a spinning reel is a good budget for a quality reel. Just compare features and shop for a deal and you can hardly go wrong.

Nothing dumb about it. These talks are why the forum exists and imo the best run, best community and best “resource” on the web regardless of genre.

I’ve never bought into the theory of slower action to give them time to eat it. If you’ve ever bed fished and seen the speed with which they grab swim and spit out a bait, it’s hard to imagine being faster than that. Imo if you’re getting short strikes and misses you’re better off adjusting retrieval, trailer, color etc.

The sprays contain petroleum distillates to make them sprayable. They actually act as a degreaser. Next time you get grease on your hands spray them and you’ll see what I mean. If you’re not comfortable with further tear down use a craft brush to apply some grease, oil etc. anything but the silicone sprays.

You’d be better off doing nothing than spraying Reel Magic or WD40 inside a reel. Your reels are last in spite of what you’re doing not because of it.

I’ve never seen anything mechanical in a JDM reel that blew me away compared to USDM models. I’ve never seen one “all different” inside either. Although warranty is an issue, I think any good seller would make right on anything glaringly bad right out of the box.

Ya it’s a close call on that. I’ll give you that one. Lol.

There’s no right or wrong feel. It’s 100% personal preference. As far as personal preference goes rod “balance” is the single most over thought aspect ever discussed imo. Experiment and see what you like.

Adding oil to grease is an exercise in futility. The added oil will just drop out. Getting the oil bro stay suspended in the carrier is the science of grease.

I don’t see any real innovation. DC been around for a while. Ya it’s in more models. Daiwa has gone backwards imo. 2000 almost every model had full floating spool and dual pinion bearings. Now reel makers have cool names for that like they just thought it up. T wing is a gimmick. Smaller cheap fasteners are biggest peeve. That goes for all of them. I’ll take a Core or OG Zillion over anything current.

It depends partly on what your reason is for a leader at all. Abrasion resistance, 10-17# depending on cover. Ability to break off in snaggy cover, 6-12#. To avoid fouling on casting plugs, 8-15#. Action on lightest of finesse baits 4-8#. I’m not convinced that bass are line shy at all. There’s something to be said for confidence though. If that’s your driving force, the lightest you can get away with after considering other factors.

It’s hard to say for certain long distance but that sounds very much like the pinion slipping con the drive pin. It’s 100% not the drag. Check to see if the yoke is upside down.

Thanks everybody. Daiwa and all the other usual sources are a no go. I’ll take another ratio. Anything that will fit just to save the reel

Has anyone ever used JDMfishing.com? They have a gear set I need for a Daiwa sv 105. The site looks good but never used them. TIA

Avoiding that symptom is the purpose of the friction ring. The “toothy” ones don’t typically go bad, just make sure it’s there. Make sure hinges are clean and screws are snug.

Line ratings on reels are only for capacity measurements and line ratings on rods are next to useless. Fish, cover, bait are your concerns for line choices

Fuji is the gold standard imo from all appearances the lzr are good quality too. The negligible difference in price hasn’t led me to experiment though.

Extra costs can be added. Usually before 24 Hrs or after 48 check directions for your brand. Iightly sand with 400> finish as usual

“It broke” = “I broke it”

With basically the whole tip missing the rods not good for much of anything as it sits but can absolutely be repaired by a qualified builder. As for replacements, what were the specs on the rod? With that you can get better suggestions

I don’t use just one brand. Most of the name brands have unique or stand out models. Trial and error and experience is a big part of rod building. Rainshadow, Rodgeeks and MHX are all worth a look