Delaware Valley Tackle

Although no longer being offered, there are quite few G. Loomis blanks still on close out. And at the risk of suffering the wrath of "The Posse" there are other very high quality blanks out there.

I know exactly what you're referring to. For some reason these tend to be way tight. Make sure you have the right size screw driver with a nice fresh tip. Not only are they tight, they are soft and strip easily. A drop of silicone or break-free helps some times. Bare down and keep the screw driver straight. The only other thing I can think of is that I sometimes wrap the handle of a screwdriver to make it thicker and can get a better grip. Good luck.

Addicting isn't it? Handle looks good. Lot's of fly rods are built with exotic wood as grips. Most people don't realize that the smoother the grip, the less slippery it is, like the carbon skinned grips for example.

One of the biggest misconceptions about custom rods is that they are out of reach for the average angler's budget. Nothing could be further from the truth. Anyone considering a production rod over $200 should at least consider a custom and I've done some nice build for far less. Factories just can't do the precision guide placement, fit and finish and fine tuning that a custom builder can do. Decorative grips, trim, thread work etc is labor intensive and often what makes custom builds appear to be extravagantly priced but that's all optional. As far as warranties go, many blank suppliers warranty their product and I guarantee our work. You won't save money by a custom build, but you'll get more bang for your buck.

You beat me to it. This is it in a nutshell.

I recommend using a heavy oil for frame bearings unless you have a tool to pack the bearings well. As far the feel, .ghoti. is right on.

The important part of using the wood filler is to do layers for deeper cracks. Otherwise it's just going to fall out.

If you're experiencing similar results with multiple reels the problem is probably in the lubing.

Some people get away with a regular palomar knot for braid others will advocate specialized knots. Depending on the conditions you fish, you may be experiencing abrasion issues that a leader will help. Braid has no stretch and as such does not absorb shock well. If you are doing a snap cast with heavier baits, you may need to just ease up a little on those.

My problem with the wide arbor spinning reels is that many production rods don't have the proper guide sizing and placement to take full advantage of the spool difference. The IPT retrieved is a function of both spool size and gearing, so I don't think ease of retrieve is a major factor. As for line memory, braid and KVD Line & Lure are ways to address that if necessary.

I assume that most of them are bought by less serious/experienced anglers. It depends on what the rod was to begin with though. For example, as much as 3" off a 7'6" Mod action cranking stick may not be that big a deal. Where as an inch off the tip of a 6'3" Ex fast drop shot rod could render it useless for the intended use.

That's part for sure. Make sure it rides freely on the pin and that there is a little grease between the plates that cover the AR ratchet. Orient the dog so that when back-reeled the ratchet teeth are caught by the flat side of the dog.

If everyone's throwing worms and you want to try giving them a different look, try GYB Fat Ika rigged skirt forward and dragged really slowly along the bottom.

I like Pflueger's spinning reels. I think they're one of the better values out there. If you like the ABU, I'm sure that a nice reel although a little pricey. FWIW, depending on what you'll use the combo for, I wouldn't match a $200 reel onto an $85 rod to justify the reel purchase. You might want to consider going with a Pflueger Supreme XT and put the difference toward a higher end rod in the flea market.

Rod blank repairs are done with either an inner splice or over sleeve. The problem here is the spot that broke. It will probably not ever be the same. For any repair attempt to have a chance of working, you'll want a sleeve material slightly more flexible than the original so that the extra layer has as little effect as possible on the action. Sleeve/wrap seams/ epoxy are the basic steps.

Just adding new lube on top of old can be a waste of time, or actually harmful. A deep cleaning and proper lubing will breathe new life into a reel, especially if it's been a little neglected.

I think when we hear "Carbon Fiber" the the image that comes to mind is woven fiber like we see on crank handles and drag washers. Graphite is another form of carbon composite material. The knock against current graphite reel frames is the inherent flex. Since these are composite materials, I'm sure someone is experimenting with various combinations of fibers to get enhanced strength and rigidity while keeping price and weight to a minimum. As already mentioned, if the polymer and fibers get compromised, failure is a risk. This is what happens many times with high modulus rods.

I've heard of the toothpaste trick, but actual sand? I'd think twice before trying that one.

X2 I say this all the time. Jfrancho's picture is a great example.

RW, how much of your success with this lure do you attribute to the color? Are they worth considering in other colors?

How about a round reel? I have an ABU 4600c3 on my cranking rod.

The setup you have is pretty versatile all around bass rig. You could duplicate the setup or go either with a MH/Mod or Mod-F action for your trebel hook lures or a Hvy/F for jigging thicker cover.

That screeching is almost always a bearing. They'll need to be flushed and oiled. If they are clean and oiled and still loud, they may need replacing. If you want to PM or email or call me and I'll walk you through DIY procedure.

Advances in braid and guide ring materials has made grooving pretty much a non-issue except fot the very lowest quality guides, and even then...

All-in-one implies more versatility than the few uses in the OP. For sheer versatility for bass fishing go 7" MH/F. If you want something a little more focused on the uses you mentioned, you might want to go 7'-7'6" Hvy/F. A used, higher quality rod as Roadwarrior suggests is not a bad idea.