Delaware Valley Tackle

Yes, oil over grease. 1. The critical part is the groove where the pawl rides. People often just grease the outer face. 2. Grease collects debris which can be abrasive and/or clogging.

What you’re asking comes only with experience, the most valuable quality in a builder. Mick has you on the right track. Start by asking about a specific build and builders will offer their opinions. It’s still up to you to decide, document your results and learn. We’re a close knit bunch and readily assist one another for the most part so no shame in asking for advice but there are no shortcuts.

You can either wrap that foot with tape or replace the seat which involves removing either the grip or guides.

Shad, chartreuse & craw if you want to live large throw in chrome and black

They look similar because they’re both built at the same factory. Bearings don’t affect the clutch.

Are you asking for bait casting advice or if you need a baitcaster ? I like playing with different types of tackle as part of the experience. There’s spinning tackle to do about anything you want if that’s your preference.

The clutch is engaging mid cast. Could be it wasn’t fully disengaged, May have bumped the thumb bar and it may be sticky and need cleaning. Any or all could be at play. I’d do it for you but honestly, the cost would approach replacement cost.

That’s especially impressive given the number of small washers and spacers in a Stella. Most of us charge a surcharge to work on them. Who knows how far they took it down though.

look at St Croix Avid.

Casting reel brakes are an aid to the thumb not a replacement. Adjusting settings is trial and error. Too many variables for anyone to tell you exactly what you need.

Look for “popping “ rods in inshore series’s. They are typically fast or mod-fast action but soft tipped.

I like dual or centrifugal brakes in a cranking reel and agree that ratio is personal preference but a 5:1 is nice for deep cranking

I’ve fished the same leader for days at times. Rest easy.

A 4.5 micro will pass a well tied Albright connection between 50# braid and 15# fluorocarbon no problem. Re-tie as needed regardless of circumstances.

Just experiment and see what you like. You’re not going to hurt anything.

If I remember that’s about 1/2 of what the sold for new so if it’s 9 mechanically and cosmetically I’d say that’s good.

I think the new one has full floating spool too.

Is the handle tight?

Aren’t they the same knot?

What exactly does “through the paces “ consist of on your example? I’m curious as I don’t see a lot of bad gears unless neglect or user error are in play.

The thing no one mentions is the amount of weight or pressure it takes for a line to stretch. It’ll stretch a certain amount before breaking, a fraction of that fighting a fish, and an inconsequential (IMO) amount on a hook set.

Welcome. This post is 9 yrs old. Start a new thread for more response

Conventional wisdom is that brass gears are more durable. Any difference in feel I think goes more to weight than any other quality of the material. Keep in mind actual material varies and machining matters. Anecdotally, I rarely need to replace gears of brass or aluminum. Not a deal breaker for me either way all else being equal. Sorry I can’t be more definitive. Buy quality and you’ll be fine.

The 5:1 offeres a mechanical advantage retrieving deep cranks and other high resistance baits. Everything else is mostly personal preference.

Don’t be afraid to ditch the leaders either. As for st croix blanks, the step from sciii to scvi is noticeable sciv to scv less so.