Delaware Valley Tackle

I think the Citica and Curado are too similar and the basic SLX makes sense until you’re ready to upgrade.

There’s no way to prove it was the dull finish that got extra bites. Could have just been timing, positioning, any number of variables. A shiny lure might have caught the same fish but you’ll never know. On the flip side, if it gives you added confidence it won’t hurt either.

Those reels came with high quality bearings. I’d flush them and spin test. If they’re quiet and spin well oil them lightly and keep using them.

What bait are you retrieving? With what rod?

You put the tip off another rod on the fenwick? Why not splice the original back on?

Spool washers are a common adjustment. That’s why good reels come with spares.

If the line spools in a cone shape adding or subtracting washers fixes it. You want the spool moved in the direction of the low spot. I’m not sure how that would cause a birds nest though. I’d also be looking at the rods guide train.

Line might have been dug in.

No. It’s just cosmetically unappealing. Bending and twisting on them will do more harm than good.

None of those really require anything special. A rod with a suitable lure weight range and enough backbone for the cover in 7’> will do nicely.

If the worm has visible wear definitely change it. The level wind on those take a beating since they don’t disengage and spin fast when casting. Keeping them clean and oiled is key. Do that and you shouldn’t eat up pawls.

I hear ya. The garden is the first place they’ll look.

Having fished a lot from shore, canoe, bass raider etc I’m used to using short sweeps rather than straight down jerks which makes rod length less of an issue. Also having the extra length is an advantage for distance casting.

Keep in mind the methods above are for standard seats. Window seats like the ACS with blank contact windows are fitted directly to the blank which definitely requires at least partial stripping of guides. Any route you take is labor intensive and can easily exceed the value of the rod. I usually only do this on high end blanks that are hard to replicate or rods with sentimental value.

Me either. By “normal guy “ I meant they don’t possess mystical powers supernatural ability or all knowing insight. I listen to what they have to say and weigh it against my own experience. Don’t blindly follow anyone

Sanding didn’t cause that. A contaminant repelled the water based polymer that is U40. I’d lightly sand the whole thing then reapply. Make sure your hands and work area are clean as well as your brush.

Simply contact the manufacturer.

All lines come off the spool more or less at the spool diameter. Poor guide trains are what cause ballooning, friction and distance loss. The suppleness of braid actually makes it the easiest to manage.

Because they’re just normal guys like the rest of us except with cool jobs. They’re under pressure to build and maintain an audience so they sometimes fall into the trap of rehashing debunked myths or just talking nonsense to have something to say.

You’re confusing action and power. A moderate rod will not necessarily be softer, it just initially bends deeper into the length. Consider this when comparing.

Did you email me regarding this? I replied but never heard back. I’ll be glad to work with you.

I use Hard as Nails all the time for minor repairs. It’ll be fine. Another coat of epoxy over that may look worse than it does now. Just seal it up as Mick suggests.

IPT is measured on a full spool depending on design an empty spool could be 1/2 or less.

Sad ?. I wear mine 100% of the time on the water.

Was this a warranty issue or a replacement program? Big difference.