Delaware Valley Tackle

A reel can’t really be judged until the first deep cleaning and bearing flush. A light spool with gummed up bearings won’t perform at its best.

It depends largely on your expectations. I like to evaluate each reel then make recommendations and discuss options. Sound good?

Spool bearings should be 3x10x4

If it’s under warranty send it back or exchange it. If you just want it gone through I’m accepting new orders after January 1. Booked into about 1/15 as of now.

I just don’t get the adjustable centrifugal thing. The old six pin shimano system worked great and was user friendly. Set it and forget it.

Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and Happy New Year! Thank you all for your support, and your participation, contribution and management of the forums. Here’s to a safe and prosperous 2020 for all.

Not to nit-pick but Lews is not a Pure Fishing brand, however they do source reels from the same factory and share parts and tooling.

Just looked at Glenn’s link. Holy cow you’re a Great Friend!!

Modulus is an aspect of the graphite material used. Scrim, resin, mandrels affect the finished product but not the modulus. In addition multiple modulus graphite’s are commonly used in an individual blank. You’re banging your head against a wall that isn’t going to give. There is no material spec or industry standard for you to compare apples to apples. Trial and error and on the water results is the only way to know. Feedback from trusted sources like our members is better insight than any “spec” or marketing claim. Only you can decide if an extra expense is worth it. Imo the point of diminishing returns on a factory rod is around $300. Any more than that I’d at least consider a custom built exactly the way you want it.

I find myself reaching for ML rods more and more often for spinning applications

You’re too hung up on the High Modulus aspect. Just because a blank isn’t marketed as HM doesn’t make it a dead stick. You’ve gotten some good suggestions. There are sooo many blank options nowadays I rarely if ever chop anything any more.

Sensitivity where the blank is concerned is a function of stiffness to weight ratio, hence the high modulus graphite. Next, the guide train should consist of the smallest lightest and least number of guides that will hold up to the application, pass connections and distribute stress correctly.

Ya NFC blanks are good but not head and shoulders above others if at all. The service hassles have turned me off completely. Only way I’ll build one is if the client supplies it.

There is no formula or rule of thumb and can’t be. Too many variables. Mainly, how you grip the rod. Moving your hand forward or back moves the fulcrum changing the balance feel. It’s 1000% personal preference. No right or wrong. I tend to hold a spinner with the stem between my ring and pinky finger, pretty much center mass of the reel so its weight makes little or no difference where balance is concerned. Same when palming a caster.

I’d go with felt as well.

M, MH etc are all subjective labels. If the rod loads, casts and sets the hook appropriately you’re good.

Email me what you’re looking for and I’ll don you a quote.

I don’t see how using a DC reel as a beginner does anything for the learning curve if you don’t thumb the spool or do so sparingly. I think you’re better off with the growing pains learning on a centrifugal reel then move on to a DC to maximize performance. I hear this a lot along with complaints of ceramic bearings being too loud. Curious if any of them are the same people.

PVC is the best but not at all cost effective for big shippers.

They’re good for the price. No problems. They are as advertised.

Ceramics are really only an advantage in specific applications like BFS and saltwater. A main advantage is ability to run dry. As for the noise, it’s a little overblown in my experience but to each his own. Unless they’re worn out, Shimano’s bearings are good and just need flushing and light oil.

Your spool is under filled. Spool it to just below the bevel and you’ll get better results. Keep in mind the rod has more to do with casting than anything else. Makes it loads correctly with the weight you’re throwing.

Odd, nylon mono is more elastic than fluoro. Fluoro is generally more vulnerable to weakening after stretching.

Just curious, what does “crapped out” mean re the PQ?

Number of bearing definitely does not make the reel. Quality bearings in key locations is much more important. Don’t get sucked in by high bearing count.