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Delaware Valley Tackle

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Everything posted by Delaware Valley Tackle

  1. Simply flush the unit, swab rollers with light oil and replace. Make the the sleeve is right side up (wide top)and that if the schematic shows a collar on the actuator of the on/off that it’s present.
  2. Only thing to add to this is that they are smooth. Something owners of “modern” reels chase through gear swaps, bearing changes, heavy grease....
  3. I get $26.95 for Deep Cleaning (full frame off tear down) and now offer an Econo Service for $18 (flush and oil spool bearings, oil and grease reel as needed) postage averages $8 depending on weight, distance and insurance chosen.
  4. Flush and oil the stock bearings before scrapping them. The difference new bearings make after that is much less significant. The Carbontex drag is always a good bet. I can hook you up if you want.
  5. Excluding a bad AR clutch, back play is due to the fit of the sleeve on the shaft or in the key washer depending on make and model.
  6. The smallest one looks like a contender as a flipping or frog reel. The others maybe a swim bait reel. The big ones are aimed at saltwater users I’d think.
  7. Sure thing. Get it in as soon as possible. I’m doing OT to get everyone on the water.
  8. Looks like a lot of reel for the $. Built like a tank from the description.
  9. Everything I’ve ever seen is north of $150. I’ve worked on a few painted reels and could always feel a difference when assembling. Not that it hurt anything performance wise.
  10. The alloy gears are actually harder than brass but the hardness and light weight lend to sound and vibration some find off putting. The hard alloy can be brittle if the reel is cranked hard under load it might be an issue. If the rod is used to move the fish and reel to take up slack no problem.
  11. Take your time and set aside time to complete the job in one sitting. An hr to two depending how far into it you’re going.
  12. Stripper is first guide from reel, next are reduction guides (in this layout 2) choker is first running guide the rest are runners then the tip top. Match guides are extra high frames.
  13. You can achieve similar results to the microwave by using PacBay Minima match guides 20/10/5 then low 5 runners to a Fuji BFAT 5.5. Super light performance on a budget. Space the stripper 20” from reel face choker 20” from there and bullseye the reduction guides in between.
  14. Since you’re new try the AmTac Microwave guides. No brainer setup and casts great with variety of reels.
  15. I thought we’d be discussing lady’s jeans. Sorry, carry on.
  16. The difference between 4.9 and 5.1:1 is negligible. Blindfolded you’d never tell the difference.
  17. I’m doing an inventory later today. Email me and I’ll get you an accurate estimate. Work is pouring in.
  18. Old Shimano Calais, old Tour PT Quantum are a pain to take apart. Tatula TW reels especially the original are more complicated than others. I’ve done so many D n E Curados and Gen 1-2 Revos I can assemble them easily even from a pile of parts. High end spinners like a Stella or Certate have tons of washers and shims to keep track of. The ABU spinners that come apart from the rear are horrible. I could go on all night. Lol
  19. I recommend annual deep cleaning as a baseline. Biannual is fine for weekend warrior type use. Maybe semi annual for a full time tournament angler. Interim maintenance as outline above is important. Let me know if you have specific questions.
  20. It’s not a game changer either way. Whatever is you’re preference will work fine. Don’t sweat the technicality of changing speed during a long retrieve. It’s a fact with any reel. The only time I feel a really fast reel is necessary is to get buzz baits on plane quickly.
  21. A guide is only $2/$3 from Mudhole. They probably just don’t stock the parts. I don’t see this as bad service necessarily just a business model.
  22. I lean toward ML for spinning applications but in this case it looks like the M has the same tip but a little more backbone. Nothing to lose IF you can believe the specs. I’d feel good trying it since I’ve handled Steez rods in the past that were powerful with real soft tip.
  23. Here’s the most concise description I’ve ever seen. Couldn’t put it better myself. The library here is a wealth of information and imo underutilized. https://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html
  24. The sv 1000 deep I found is marked 80m of 16#. If that helps.

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