Delaware Valley Tackle

Side plates are still available from shimano as far as I know. I expect the changes in frame size and addition of the x ship bearings exclude gear swaps from Current models someone at shimano might be willing to confirm. There was nothing wrong with the gears they came with though. Carbontex drags, super tuned and freshening spool bearings if needed and they run with anything made currently.

A small area can be coated with finish epoxy. Urethane is water clear, thin and durable. I wouldn’t be surprised if the fibers are already compromised but if you got them for cheap not much to lose.

Drop shot, Ned rig, hair jigs, small tubes, in-line spinners... basically anything finesse spinning.

Those are three different rods for me personally. I like a fast action soft tip for jerkbaits so I’d look for that as it’s the least compromise for the other two applications.

Are you asking for rod reel suggestions or for supporting arguments on the advantages of spinning tackle in certain applications?

I don’t see a small company having any advantage overhead wise. They have the same expense needs just proportionally less. A lot if not most innovation comes from small companies or even individuals in many industries. Companies of all sizes put out great products and some not so much. I judge each on its own merits.

You have to check IPT ( inches per turn) to see how much difference there is.

66 yards is two long casts worth and a workable amount that maximizes the filler spool. Works best if you run leader for re-tying. For straight braid you might want more.

I like a short 6’ for sniper casting to targets and a 7’> for long fan casting to cover water. I do the latter much so just use one of my jig rods.

The spool just sits on there it won’t hurt anything. As long as it now lays line correctly you’re good. If you want to exchange it just for peace of mind no harm.

Are they like the newer Daiwa’s where the instruction is to just remove side to side movement?

Look up an arbor knot. Super simple

Check the spacer on the palm side under the bearing.

If you’ve had the cap off you may have lost spacers. If the cap was too tight for too long the spacer may be dimpled. You can flip it over to get some more life out of it.

If you feel the need to spool up with 10-12# mono a large arbor reel helps with casting and line management. With light braid on spinning being all the rage I’d pass in favor of a lighter reel.

This is a good leader knot but won’t work for line to line

I think there’s more at play here than line lay. I don’t think shims are the answer, at least not completely. I’d definitely tighten it up in the spool and try to keep some tension when retrieving. Ripping the light baits in might be throwing enough slack into the line to cause those loose loops.

Blasphemy!!

You were looking at a kit. You can buy just the blank. I consider the K2 a high end blank and have built some nice rods on them. Since they are a rod company they need to protect their rod prices when they price blanks muck like St Croix did. Bottom line is nice blanks but higher price than some comparable.

Right, I just don’t think the light gears are defective, just a trait some find annoying. I’d lean toward just buying a reel with brass gears to begin If I was that concerned but different strokes!

There’s no actual problem with the gears as far as I’ve seen. Some people just don’t like the inevitable sound and feel resulting from the light weight.

Just small stuff. The release for the left side plate and DC unit are hidden and not intuitive. Of course the manual is in Japanese that’s no help except for pictures that eventually saved the day. The crank shaft and level wind are attached to a shared plate. The e clips are extra small but tight. Just stupid stuff but when you’re under the gun any delay no matter how slight gets to ya.

I did two JDM Conquests yesterday and still traumatized. lol

Very nice. Congratulations

You know in today’s tide pod challenge world you’re opening yourself up with advice like this.